I had a 6' wide walk in that was just fine. BUT it was only 3' deep (so no claustrophobic tunnel effect), and it was in a 1930s house that was lucky to fit a walk-in of any sort at all in the original footprint. In a new house and with that much depth, try for at least a 3' wide central walkway.

I have a weird, L shaped walk in closet that at its main points are only 6’ wide across (with some weird bump ins to boot that restrict some points to just 4’ across) I have a spot in the closet where clothes are hanging on both sides when you’re in between, and a couple of spots where I have clothes hanging on one side of you and drawers or shelves on the other side. It works. I won’t say it’s ideal, but if I keep things well organized it’s doable. I think size of the user is also important. I’m a smaller to average sized female, 5’6” and wear a sized medium in clothing. My hubby is 6’1” and wears a XXL and he dislikes our closet... I make sure his clothing is easier to get to than mine... he has his clothes in the nearest part of the L to the door, I’m the one who has to walk all of the way into the closet and the other side of the L to reach my items, and I keep seasonal or infrequently worn items in the very back and most difficult to reach parts of the closet. When we bought our house we lived in another state, and our realtor was walking through the house describing things to us. I distinctly remember she said “oh... well this is a strange closet. It’s not really big.” So I know when I go to sell this house I will make sure to have my closet “staged.” (Not literally, but it will be as clean and organized and decluttered as it can be!) I will say that it does feel kind of claustrophobic in parts of my closet. If you can spare 7’ across that would be better.

Thank you for the great input. Given that the current size is planned for 5'6", to take it to 7' would be and added 15 sq. Feet which would probably mean $3000 moreI think I'll stay with the original.

Yeah, that plan doesn’t show clothes hanging on each 10’ long side, it’s just one side with shelves across it, and more clothes hanging along the back wall. That looks plenty large to me!

Since you posted a plan...

Are your washer and dryer on an outside wall? If not, how will the dryer be vented?

Don't pay for a window in the closet. Sunlight fades clothes, so you will need to keep a blackout shade on it anyway.

Hi Ann. Yes the washer and dryer are on an outside wall. I accidentally cut off that portion of the plan.

Thanks Fun2b. We will definitely keep that in mind.

Even with 1’ added width, 10 sq ft. Shouldn’t add more than $1,000 less cost of window about $600 added cost. Well worth it. Master closet size is valuable space. Expand it with this thinking.

Will you store any clothes in the bedroom, or will they all be in the closet? If all in the closet, the shelves on the outside wall will be big enough for shoes, and bins for scarves, socks, undies, jewelry. Do you have mostly hanging or folding clothes?

I looked at your plan again and I feel even more strongly for pushing that wall the window is on back 2’. You don’t have a linen closet. So you will need room for storing bedding, towels, toilet tissue and other items. Even adding 20 sf let’s estimate at $125 per sq ft gets you to $2,500 minus cost of window at $500-600 depending on size and type so let’s say you end up adding $2,000 to your overall price. That will hardly be noticeable in a loan or monthly payment. You will never regret having more storage. One more point. That Master is really small. You won’t have room for king bed and dresser. All the more reason to expand the closet. Really think this through.

Hi. I will definitely think about it. There is a small linen closet just outside the laundry.
Except for one small part near the headboard the room is 12'2 x 12'11. A king bed will fit on the shortest wall of 11'5" with 30 inches in each side. I have a queen bed so OK for me but just enough for a king for resale I hope
I'll get the quote in extending the closet to 7 x 10.
Thanks again.

Around here the cost per square foot is about $215. In Canadian dollars.

I think there is room g a dresser on the wall with the cliset/bathroom door.
Generally speaking I would say more casual clothes. Need room for jeans and sweaters and Tshirt that DH does not like to hang but prefers on open shelves.

I really need to stop typing on my phone. Sorry for the typos

The plan you posted shows the master as 11 ft 5-1/2 inches x 12 ft 2 inches. In a later post you say 12 ft 2 by 12 ft 11 inches. Just curious as neither room size would fit a King sized bed comfortably which is about 76 inches wide by 80 inches deep plus headboard and footboard if applicable. A California King is 72 inches wide by 84 inches deep. Are you able to make some changes to the room sizes?

You need walk space of 3’ around furniture minimum. Lay this out to scale.

Hope this helps to clarify.. The red wall is about 30 inches. The blue wall at the top is 11feet 5 inches. The width across the green line is 12 feet 11 inches and the yellow line is 12 feet 2 inches.
It seems odd 8 know but it is based on the way the main floor is designed as well. I think I forgot to mention that this is the second floor of a two story house.

Hi Flo. I read the following.. For ideal bed placement, allow at least 24 inches between the bedand the wall to get out of bedcomfortably and allow 36 inches between the end of the bed and thebedroom or bathroom door.Oct 16, 2019



https://www.thespruce.com › furnitu...

The Basics of Furniture Arrangement

Here a king bed is 76 inches wide. At the narrow part my room is 137 inches which leaves 61 inched so 30 inches each side.
The room is 146 inches long. A king is 96 which leaves 50 inches of free space.
Future buyer could orient the bed against the right wall and have even more space. I just prefer to not look at the closet/bathroom doors. Also, I will have a queen bed.
Again, thank you for the input.

Most people don't want to orient their bed toward the closet and bathroom doors as the view of several doors along a wall is not usually very nice so they would eliminate your home from consideration if a King bed was important to the buyer.

I'm not saying that it would eliminate all buyers - but that it requires some thought if you are building this plan. There are plenty of buyers that have Queen beds and will orient the master bedroom in the same way you plan to orient it. A Queen will give you 38 inches on each side which is better than squeezing along the side of the bed to make it every morning.

Personally, I think I would figure out a way to use the long wall on the right and make the view from the bed better so there is more space all around the room. But if the layout works for you, then this doesn't become an issue unless and until you decide to sell your place.

Thanks Denita. I appreciate your thoughtful comments.

Since you are designing this plan now, is there anyway to reconfigure the room? How far along are you in this process?

Unfortunately no way to reconfigure. We either proceed or find a different house plan (could still add on 2 Feet to width of closet,)
I posted complete floor plans in a different post. Unfortunately the advice I have received there is suggesting things that can't be done on our narrow city lot.

.

I'm meeting with the builder tomorrow to see what the cost to increase the closet and bedroom by 2 Feet and to determine if we can make the window wall flush. If we can widen the closet I might just go for 9 x 7 for it and make the ensuite 9 x 8.

Let us know what happens. Best thoughts for you for widening the space.

Thanks Denita. Our designer is going to send us a completely new 2nd floor plan because we can't really change the master bedroom size unless we changed the foundation and main floor plan too which is very costly.

Now I'm sad. Here is the alternative floor plan which is the absolute maximum without changing the main floor plan and foundation.
I don't like going through walk in to the ensuite. The walk in is too narrow for hanging in both sides.
The master bath and laundry could be switched.
There is another plan that I like better but it makes unwanted changes to main floor and adds expensive footage.

OK. Maybe I'm warming up to this plan. Does anyone have the skills to show me what it would look like if I put shelves on the closet wall next to the bathroom and single rod behind door and double rods on other two walls?
Or does anyone have any recommendations?

Why these changes, when all you wanted was to expand the master closet?? I don't like this layout at all. First, why put the secondary bath down by the stairs? Put the laundry by the stairs and bathroom nearest the bedrooms. Second, no on walking through closet to get to bathroom. I am baffled by this. You have a footprint and the only good thing I see here is you get a little bit more room in the "master bedroom". I need to see more of this overall plan and other floors to figure out the logic here.

I was told the mbr was too small. I mentioned that I would switch the bath and the laundry.

Your second plan drawing doesn’t show the actual hanging space. You cant have that u shaped hanging on the right. There is just not room Or it will be very tight And you can’t really turn corners with hanging, you lose the corner. The actual closet would probably have hanging on one side of the u and shelves opposite.

with plan 2 i Think you have about 14 feet of hanging, and 8’ of shelves. with plan 1 you have 11 feet of hanging and probably 6’ of shelves. so the closet is bigger.

with plan 2 I might consider swapping the laundry and hall baths.

Thanks Roccouple. I agree swapping the laundry and bath makes sense.

Cd.. Great. That looks better.

Hi cd7733. I just realized you sent two changes. I like both. Definitely the bathroom and laundry switch.
I never even thought the ensuite would fit that way bit it does..
So hard to decide lol. Thank you again.

You're welcome! Sorry I didn't label the changes. It was a quick edit right before getting my little ones to bed. Good luck with you planning!