Thank you, socks!! I appreciate your reply and will treat it accordingly.

I agree with Socks and would definitely wait till the weather is warmer, give it time to acclimate to its new environment. Congrats she's a nice one....

Oh, and be careful of overwatering. Don't even water for a week or so after repotting. Do you know the wooden skewer trick? If not.....to test to see if the plant is dry, insert a wooden skewer into the soil for a few minutes. When you pull it out, you can see if the potting mix is still damp or if it's dry. If damp, don't water.

Using a 'tell'

Over-watering saps vitality and is one of the most
common plant assassins, so learning to avoid it is worth the small
effort. Plants make and store their own energy source –
photosynthate - (sugar/glucose). Functioning roots need energy to
drive their metabolic processes, and in order to get it, they use
oxygen to burn (oxidize) their food. From this, we can see that
terrestrial plants need air (oxygen) in the soil to drive root
function. Many off-the-shelf soils hold too much water and not enough
air to support good root health, which is a prerequisite to a healthy
plant. Watering in small sips leads to a build-up of dissolved solids
(salts) in the soil, which limits a plant's ability to absorb water –
so watering in sips simply moves us to the other horn of a dilemma.
It creates another problem that requires resolution. Better, would be
to simply adopt a soil that drains well enough to allow watering to
beyond the saturation point, so we're flushing the soil of
accumulating dissolved solids whenever we water; this, w/o the plant
being forced to pay a tax in the form of reduced vitality, due to
prolong periods of soil saturation. Sometimes, though, that's not a
course we can immediately steer, which makes controlling how often we
water a very important factor.

In many cases, we can judge whether or not a
planting needs watering by hefting the pot. This is especially true
if the pot is made from light material, like plastic, but doesn't
work (as) well when the pot is made from heavier material, like clay,
or when the size/weight of the pot precludes grabbing it with one
hand to judge its weight and gauge the need for water.

Fingers stuck an inch or two into the soil work ok
for shallow pots, but not for deep pots. Deep pots might have 3 or
more inches of soil that feels totally dry, while the lower several
inches of the soil is 100% saturated. Obviously, the lack of oxygen
in the root zone situation can wreak havoc with root health and
cause the loss of a very notable measure of your plant's potential.
Inexpensive watering meters don't even measure moisture levels, they
measure electrical conductivity. Clean the tip and insert it into a
cup of distilled water and witness the fact it reads 'DRY'.

One of the most reliable methods of checking a
planting's need for water is using a 'tell'. You can use a bamboo
skewer in a pinch, but a wooden dowel rod of about 5/16” (75-85mm)
would work better. They usually come 48” (120cm) long and can
usually be cut in half and serve as a pair. Sharpen all 4 ends in a
pencil sharpener and slightly blunt the tip so it's about the
diameter of the head on a straight pin. Push the wooden tell deep
into the soil. Don't worry, it won't harm the root system. If the
plant is quite root-bound, you might need to try several places until
you find one where you can push it all the way to the pot's bottom.
Leave it a few seconds, then withdraw it and inspect the tip for
moisture. For most plantings, withhold water until the tell comes out
dry or nearly so. If you see signs of wilting, adjust the interval
between waterings so drought stress isn't a recurring issue.

Al

I'd like to add that a commercial Cactus & Succulent mix won't be fast draining enough for a Sans. When you buy the soil, pls buy a bag of Perlite as well & mix w/ the soil 50/50 (meaning equal parts of each). I agree that you shouldn't water for at least 5 days after the repot. Good luck & enjoy, Sans are great plants.

Thanks for all the advice! I appreciate all your suggestions. Once I get this guy on track I think it will be in pretty good shape!

this is a little late, but i can add that a shallower pot is also a good idea because it will have less soil that can stay wet and because these plants have a shallow rooting system and actually like being rootbound. they almost thrive off of neglect. they enjoy a cramped pot, literally to the point of bursting out of it. if its happy it can easily double in shoots in a year, all you have to do is pull it out, divide the rhizomes and bam, you've got two plants

SR - I'm sorry, but there's not much I agree with in what you said. When using media that support perched (nearly ALL commercially bagged potting media do) shallow pots are MORE difficult to grow in because the ht of a perched water column in any given medium is a constant (at container capacity, which is a measure of water retention at the point in time when a medium stops draining naturally, after having been fully saturated). See image, which uses shading to depict saturated area of the soil column.:

Too, plants that typically have root systems growing primarily in the top couple of inches of soil, will happily colonize the entire soil mass of very deep pots if the soil is well-aerated and doesn't hold water in excess.

Too, no plant 'likes', 'enjoys', or prefers to be rootbound. Please see the link for comments on that topic; and finally, the assertion that any plant 'thrives on neglect' is a contradictio in adjecto - it refutes itself. The ONLY way a plant can thrive is if cultural conditions are in the plant's sweetest of all sweet spots. I.e., if every cultural condition is perfect or close to perfect. If a plant in a pot is thriving, the grower MUST be providing exactly what the plant wants .... and one would have a difficult time squaring that with 'neglect'.

Al

i agree with almost everything you said, and like you said in that link, i do use the sans in a smaller pot so that they may grow in clumps, so its a personal view/ preference for their growth. as for the neglect, this is what i meant: this plant's origins are native to africa. they don't need the codeling that other houseplants, tending to be tropical, do. if anything, that will kill them. although they may not be succulents that can survive in more dire conditions, they have no need to be watered weekly, fertilized constantly or repotted annually. its a plant that you put in bright indirect light and just let be.

"i do use the sans in a smaller pot so that they may grow in clumps, so its a personal view/ preference for their growth." That sans are a clumping plant is resultant of genetic coding - has nothing to do with how we prefer to grow them.

"...... as for the neglect, this is what i meant: this plant's origins are native to africa. they don't need the codeling that other houseplants, tending to be tropical, do. if anything, that will kill them. although they may not be succulents that can survive in more dire conditions, they have no need to be watered weekly, fertilized constantly or repotted annually. its a plant that you put in bright indirect light and just let be." Viewing the topic from the perspective of the grower, we all allow the grower can do whatever (s)he wants - no question about that. From the plant's perspective, it's a little more complicated. Allowing a plant to remain dry when it could do with a drink is not an appropriate fix for watering too frequently, even if the results of over-watering might be more damaging than results of under-watering. BOTH are limiting and should be avoided. Over-watering is neglectful care just as surely as allowing the soil to remain dry for neglectfully long periods is.

Vitality is the measure of how well a plant is able to deal with the cultural hand you/I deal it. In order for plants to thrive, they must be free of cultural conditions that cause stress. Long periods of dry soil are stressful to nearly all plants, even those capable of entering a consequential dormancy. Stress is always limiting (from the plant's perspective) and, for containerized plants, the result of the grower being neglectful of appropriate care. Substitute ANY adverse condition for 'stress' in the preceding sentence (over-watering, under-watering, over/under-fertilizing, too hot, too cold, not enough/too much light, et cetera), and it holds true. Neglect cannot be anything but an adversity; so, no matter how we parse the reasoning, the conclusion is, no plant thrives on neglect. BTW - watering/fertilizing/repotting ...... too frequently is as neglectful of appropriate care parameters as not watering for extended periods because you know the plant 'tolerates' it. That might be best for you, but it surely isn't best for the plant.

Al

again, i agree with you, so i guess it's just me who isn't explaining myself correctly since you feel the need to further explain. my bad. sorry for the constant commenting @Bluebell66, but i do wish your plant to thrive. receiving a plant from someone else and having it flourish is always a satisfactory feeling. all in all, it is an easy plant to care for, so i'm sure you'll do well without worry. best of luck! :)