My suggestion is to NOT plant them at 2ft intervals - that is too close unless you are going to chop down 2/3 of them. As artful_gardener said, they do not transplant well and they will fill in the space quicker than you can imagine! I got mine as little twigs 2 springs ago (about 6-8 inches tall) - now they are about 3 ft tall and 2 ft across. I only watered them the first year, and they survived last year on their own. Interestingly, they have put on a LOT of growth over this past winter (since last Oct), so make sure you water them all year the first year. DO NOT amend the holes if you have heavy clay soil. The roots will never grow out of the planting hole if you do this! We have realtively heavy clay soil too. The previous owners of our home did this with several trees - I finally pulled them out last year because these trees were just not thriving, even though the owners said they'd been in the ground for almost 7 years. The planting hole was easy to see and it was filled with potting soil (!!) - and the roots of these poor trees were confined to the planting hole - the roots had wrapped themselves around and around in the hole, but had not ventured out into the clay. Now I plant ALL of my perennials, shrubs, and trees directly into the unamended dirt. The only thing I do different is for roses, and those I top-dress with manure. Hope that helps! Nancy

Guess I am going to pipe in a bit as well.There are plenty of zone 5s in the rockies,I live in one.But have plenty of experience from zone 3 as well since my old home an hours drive was 3/4. This being a prime source for growing in the rockies hmmmm,It has great people who have information that is wonderful,, but rocky gardening covers so many issues from state to state and zone to zone that it takes several resources the best starting at where you live... Zone 4 is a nice magazine just starting it is pretty and has some great info.That said if your an old hand at living and growing out here it will share some wonderful gardens to go visit..I very much appreciate them they also offer to put in events including ours which they had in their last mag.Thanks guys,,, I try to tell people instead of looking on line and reading mags get your butt out into the world and socialize with the growers in your own local.. I know, I know not everyone has the time for that.I make time for anyone who wishes to come down and learn....Personally I do not take the time on this site that I used to simply because I am focused on teaching those in my area who have an interest in gardening in my local. That way they benefit from not just our experience but also those who show up for our classes.Hey and our classes are free. I would say this is what many in the Colorado areas are able to reach out more socially here because they do get together on occasions not being as rural and spotted as across many miles like others here.. I feel I can comfortably say that having been one of the originals from spikes days of gardenweb when we had very limited forums.A small handful of us requested this forum which took a few requests as we watched him open up others,,,It has taken years for RMG to grow into what it now is.I guess it is nice to know that some people do look at it for so much info,,I just always thought it was a nice place to connect with others who have our garden challenges..

My Burkwood Daphne (Daphne x burkwoodii) grows well in amended clay. I purchased a large specimen (2 feet tall and wide) despite hearing some grumbling that this plant is difficult to grow. It's the star of the spring garden, and the rounded shape provides stunning contrasts to spikes of flower stalks. The daphne gets full sun in high summer from 9 am to 6 pm and gradually less sun as the year moves along (The garden is shaded in the mornings from my two-story house... the daphe is planted on the northwest side... only a few hours of sun in the winter.) My daphne keeps its leaves til January (semi-evergreen). Companion plants include Mrs. Moon lungwort (growing between the daphne and a rock wall - no sun) and wooly veronica (in the sunny front). I flank the plant with low-growing ground-cover stuff to accentuate the roundness of the daphne's form: kinnikinnick, golden moneywort and hardy plumbago. I also plant tiny species crocus around the perimeter. My neighbor is growing a smaller rock-garden type daphne (he tossed the tag and forgot the type.) Despite being transplanted three times in two years, this softballl-sized daphne thrives in his unamended but rocky clay at the base of a north-facing fence (minimal direct sunlight). Daphnes are great plant. No fuss. No pests. A great spring show. Handsome form when out of bloom. Winter hardy. Can't go wrong, in my experience.

it would be nice to confirm the ID... unless all you sperts are fine with it ..?? second .. the prior owner planted a self seeding weed tree ... it is .. what it is.. given where it is ... all juniper are full sun plants... and they grow and fill out ... to standard in full sun ... in your micro climate of heavy shade.. it is.. what it is ... love it.. or kill it ... the lawn looks fertd ... if so.. it gets what it needs ... in that regard ... the bottom line here.. I THINK ... is that you look at common garden specimens of juniper ... and are comparing it to a forest tree ... it looks.. just like a forest tree.. in too much shade ... put it out of your misery ... if its not performing to your standard ... see link if cut to ground level.. it will be dead .. no need to dig out the stump or treat it ... BTW ... here in MI.. i lost all my scopulorum to some disease .. back quite a few years ... i cant recall.. but think it was juniper tip blight.. maybe not ... whatever.. i put them out of my misery .. lifes to short ... ken