A scarcely known broadleafed evergreen that does well in alkaline soil and can take considerable sun is Arctostaphyllos x coloradensis (Hybrid Manzanita). It was introduced by High Country Gardens a few years ago and is also being sold now by Lazy S'S nursery in VA. It doesn't get very tall, but it's quite handsome I think. I've had very good luck with mine.

It is easiest to find hardy rhododendrons and deciduous azaleas. Evergreen azaleas as a rule are more tender. There are a few exceptions. Probably the most trouble free plants are: Boule de Neige (5' white large leaved) Nova Zembla (5' red large leaved) They take sun or shade. For more visit the page below: Here is a link that might be useful: Modern Iron-Clad Rhododendrons

I don't use burlap either, I don't see the return for the effort. Other cultural practices have a much greater benefit. Rhododenrons are pretty tough to grow well in southern Ontario, they require lots of ancillary care. You need to make sure that you've got hardy varieties, the soil composition is correct (high organic, well draining, acidic), planted in a sheltered position (part shade, little wind), the rootball was scored just before planting, topdressed and fertilized every year, and some shelter from winter sun. I did a phenomenal amount of work to ensure conditions mimic a rhodos habitat which in southern ontario, is not easy. One of the biggest shortcomings are the dry summers which can be made worse if you have a thirsty tree nearby (especially maples). I water at least once a week during the summer. The other shortcoming is the soil, which unless you live on the Shield, is exactly the opposite of what is needed. Instead of trying to modify the soil, I just ended up changing it. As for varieties, the Yak, PJM, and Finnish groups are the hardiest but any zone 5 rhodo will work for you. The Dominion aboretum in Ottawa has large rhodos, as does RBG in Hamilton. Azaleas are easier! Simon

I'm in zone 5b/6a Springfield IL (the city literally sits on both zones according to the map) so we are a cold zone 6a or a warm 5b I guess. Anyway, I have Brackens Brown Beauty and Edith Bogue. I have seen Little Gems and D D Blanchards here as well. 2 winters ago both my EB and BBB lost almost all their leaves and the BBB had a few small branches die. They both recovered and look perfect now. Last year was also a pretty bad winter here but both Southern Mags did much better. The EB got a little burnt, the BBB was very burned but they both lost very few leaves. What about Little Gem and DD Blanchard 2 winters ago? All Little Gems that I know of were killed here. Of the 3 DD Blanchards I know of only one came out looking o.k. The others had so much wood die back that they should be cut down. The one that survived doesn't look great but it might recover. From what I've heard, the first 3 years are important in getting them established. My advice is to water daily the first year. I mulched heavily the first 3 years and used Wilt Proof the first 2 years. The 3rd year I did not, which is when the winter 2 years ago occurred. I wonder if they would have faired better had I used Wilt proof. Spring planting is also recommended. It is also recommended to plant it were it will be protected from North and west winds, or from winter sun. Mine are protected from neither, but maybe they should be in case we get colder temps someday. All that said, I was looking through weather undergrounds historical temps for Springfield. In 1983 we had about 22 days below 32 degrees and some days below zero the entire day. I have to wonder if the southern mags would even survive that. So I suppose it's possible that Southern Magnolias aren't bullet proof here, but I have yet to see a winter that has killed mine. I have seen some BBBs here that don't look so hot. I don't know if they weren't watered well or if they were less hardy than other BBBs. So I think if you lose one, it is worth trying again.