Roses - systemic treatments vs spraying
Carla (6A MA)
4 years ago
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Carla (6A MA)
4 years agoLota Mota
4 years agoRelated Discussions
spray or systemic granules
Comments (19)Daisy, Good question. I've wondered about this too. As you know, the spores will not germinate immediately if the plants dry within 6-8 hours. Yes, it seems that a hard spray of water would spread some spores around, but there aren't many (or any) spores on the new growth where aphids live. If you commonly have mite problems, it is necessary to spray under the lower leaves where there may be spores to spread, but on balance you would be doing more good than harm. I rarely have mite problems (high humidity, no insecticide to encourage them). In such a case, it might make sense to avoid unnecessary spritzing. Rinsing the top surface of leaves downward can wash off blackspot spores....See MoreAerobic waste system vs. plants
Comments (9)Here's the quick and easy answers: 1.) Yes, with some exceptions 2.) No. You can only grow vegetables if the vegetable garden is sited in an area where the water absolutely, positively will not reach it. 3.) No experience, but as a lifelong gardener, and a mostly organic one, I have long listened to frustrated organic gardeners trying to make an aerobic water treatment system fit into their overall organic program. 1. Most plants will be able to tolerate, and even thrive, if you have such a system. However, there are some plants that are very sensitive to excess moisture on their foliage, and you probably would want to site any sensitive plants like that as far from the water spray as you can. Also, a lot depends on your soil in your yard and how quickly it does or does not drain. Plants that absolutely must have good drainage/cannot stand constantly wet soil may struggle in less than perfectly well-drained soil since they will have an almost constant supply of water. 2.) It is not recommended that you grow vegetables, nuts or fruits of any kind in an area watered by an aerobic septic system. It just isn't safe. No matter what anyone tells you--even if someone swears they have done it for years with no ill effects, you still shouldn't do it. If you have watched the news these last few years, you probably have heard of the problems with salmonella-contaminated tomatoes in 2008, as well as salmonella or E. Coli-conaminated crops the last 3 years, including melons, lettuce, green onions and spinach. How does such contamination occur? The major way is via contact between the plants/produce and either animal OR human manure. In some countries which export produce to the USA, the field crops ARE fed/watered with humanure (human manure) and that can be a major source of crop contamination. There is also the issue of other stuff being in the wastewater, including any medications taken by anyone in your household which might be excreted in human waste. 3. No experience here. I know from talking to people who have these systems that some of them work great and some don't. I think a lot depends on how well the system is maintained. Some organic gardener homeowners "feed" either sugar or molasses to their system to encourage the aerobic process to function at its highest level. Also, be careful about what chemicals go down your drains because too many chemical cleaning agents, soaps, and bleach can kill the aerobic digesting agents and mess up the system. If it were here at my home, I'd look for a solution so I could still have a vegetable garden and fruit and nut trees. Some people in Texas have managed to hook up their water spray part of the system to drip irrigation lines to keep the stuff down low to the ground instead of having it thrown around in the air. This makes it possible to grow veggies in containers without the water spraying on them. Goodl luck. I hope you get advice from someone who actually has one of these systems and can tell you first-hand how they manage their system and their gardening. Dawn...See MoreSystemic treatment suggestions?
Comments (30)Hi ladriannec, I am also in 7B or A, I'm not sure :) I am about 40 miles north east of Atlanta. Yes blackspot and cercospora are the worst issues. I don't see a lot of powdery mildew, although 2 years ago, it completely destroyed the bloom on my veilchenblau. It's dependent on the weather. Like Ken, I use the Bayer. I just did my first spray yesterday. Many of my roses have leafed out, the weather is getting warmer, and we are getting rain, so I don't want to let BS take hold. I saw some spotted leaves, but they were older leaves from last year. You should consider joining the Greater Atlanta Rose Society. I belong to the Greater Gwinnett Rose Society. In the winter, we both do an order from Shealy, a South Carolina agriculture supply and we get Purely Organic, which is a great fertilizer. We also can get other supplies such as gypsum, lime, other fertilizers, Reply, other fungicides and other items. The prices are great and Mr. Shealy delivers them in February, just in time for spring. It's worth the $15 membership just for that....See MoreBest rose for the vase & bouquets of no-spray roses
Comments (282)ann beck 8a ruralish WA How does your soil look like, being high in iron? The top layer of my soil is black and rock hard clay, but the lowest layer is lighter color clay (orangish), and red roses do well here. Red roses like Double Delight & Munstead Wood both have a higher need for iron. I check the web, and it stated: "The most distinctive characteristic of an iron-rich soil is a ruddy orange or red color, though not all red soils are rich in iron. When the iron deposits in the soil oxidize, they turn a distinctive rust color that tints the soil red. " In early summer when the stems of cut-blooms are softer, they wilt easily if I use acidic rain. My cut-blooms always last longer in my alkaline tap water at pH 9, rather than acidic rain water. My tap water leaves whitish calcium and hard magnesium deposits on pots. We have hard well water, and our soil is high in dolomitic rocks (calcium plus magnesium). In the fall when the stems are harder, cut blooms can tolerate acidic rain water better with less wilting. Below are some recent cut blooms this Sept. 2022. Dark red are Munstead Wood, it's a constant bloomer as 8th-year own root, light pink is Princess Charlene d. Monaco (4th-year own-root), and whites are 12th-year own-root Mary Magdalene, lowest ruffled pink are Augusta Luis: The Dark Lady (red), Tchaikosky (light yellow), and Sweet Mademoiselle (salmon) are heavy bloomers this Sept. Tchaikosky is 4.5" across and Sweet M is 4". They are fertilized with biochar at pH 8.6 which supplies calcium and potassium for large blooms....See MoreCarla (6A MA)
4 years agoLota Mota
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agomad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY)
4 years agoCarla (6A MA)
4 years agoVaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoCarla (6A MA)
4 years agoLota Mota
4 years agoK S 7b Little Rock (formerly of Seattle)
4 years agoK S 7b Little Rock (formerly of Seattle)
4 years agoCarla (6A MA)
4 years agoVaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley
4 years agoSheila z8a Rogue Valley OR
4 years agoDingo2001 - Z5 Chicagoland
4 years agoAustin
4 years agoCarla (6A MA)
4 years agoCarla (6A MA)
4 years agoAustin
4 years agoMagnus - England
4 years agoVaporvac Z6-OhioRiverValley
4 years agoMoses, Pittsburgh, W. PA., zone 5/6, USA
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoratdogheads z5b NH
4 years agomad_gallica (z5 Eastern NY)
4 years agoCarla (6A MA)
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoCarla (6A MA)
4 years agoSylvia Wendel
4 years agoAustin
4 years agomark_roeder 4B NE Iowa
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoCarla (6A MA)
3 years agomark_roeder 4B NE Iowa
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agoCarla (6A MA)
3 years agoCarla (6A MA)
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agomark_roeder 4B NE Iowa
3 years agoAnn-SoCalZ10b SunStZ22
3 years agoCarla (6A MA)
3 years agoAnn-SoCalZ10b SunStZ22
3 years agoCarla (6A MA)
3 years agolast modified: 3 years agokatyajini
3 years agoAnn-SoCalZ10b SunStZ22
3 years agoCarla (6A MA)
3 years agoCarla (6A MA)
3 years ago
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K S 7b Little Rock (formerly of Seattle)