Our new walk-in pantry. Just over 6' x 8' in size, with 9' ceilings. Shelves are a mix of 24" deep, 12" deep and 9" deep. We have two slide out drawers under the bottom left shelf in which we put kid snacks for their easy reach. We store ALL food and small appliances in here - the only foodstuff we keep in the main kitchen are spices near the stove. Our contractor cut and painted the wood himself, and then hung all the brackets. Shelving has been braced together in the corners to keep them from separating. We love it! It's a vast improvement over the small over-stuffed closet we had before our kitchen remodel!

OK, I'm very relieved to read your encouraging responses! First of all, my apologies to anyone I erroneously cited as having condemned CPs in the Other Thread. (It was late, I was taking it all in one huge gulp....) Thank you all for taking my question so seriously, too. I almost hesitated to ask anything that might risk flinging gas on the embers. So this is what I've got planned: My new kitchen will be in a rectangular room with the main functional work counters along the long walls. Range wall on exterior wall because of vent fan access and the sink/clean-up zone on the opposite, interior wall. (BTW, don't get worked up over the lack-of-window-over-kitchen-sink thing. For many reasons it is not possible with my other layout/building contraints and in any case, sink windows are not a big attraction to me.) In between these two work counters is a narrow island (w prep sink), not intended for dining/seating, just standing and working at. I have 42" clear aisles between all the counter edges, and that works fine for me. I have two, long, largely independent, isoceles triangles rather than an equilateral or right triangle work zone. In other words food storage lies at the top of my kitchen and the food will, depending on needs, flow down either the sink counter aisle or down the range counter aisle to emerge at the end of the central island, prepped, cooked and plated, ready to be served in the dining room which opens off the bottom of the plan. (Reversed flow on return, of course; with perhaps more emphasis on the clean-up zone triangle at that stage.) So in short, my c.p. will block nothing as both aisles between the island and main work counters will have free access to fridge (and the adjacent c.p.) in my particular layout. One short end of the room is largely open (pair of french doors) to the dining room. The other short end houses the fridge and in one corner, the proposed corner pantry. I really prefer a separate, room-style pantry space to the other option of a bank of pull-out pantry cabs. And I found that the geometry of a corner of a corner pantry was better than the geometry of a straight pantry room. (By geometry I mean more running feet of shelving for the same interior floor space because the two adjacent, 90 degree shelf runs can use the same open space.) I still have an orginal pantry-entrance door and its frame which was taken out and stored in a barn many years ago, so that will solve Palimpsest's builder-grade issue, nicely. The old pantry door is exactly the same as the other mid-19th c doors throughout the house: heavy, old-growth pine, six panels with a morticed lock set and brown-swirly Bennington handles. Underneath more-recent coats of paint is highly stylized pre-Civil War grain painting, a decorative treatment which I happen to loathe, but will protect as I add a smooth paint coating. As it happens my layout contains no corner cab issues at all since each of my counter runs occupy only a single wall. That's something I worked hard on, but it is less any design skill than the fact that the room has four doors (including one exterior and one double-leaf interior f.d.)and two windows which strongly limited my choices. Still too many doors in my opinion, but considering the room presently has six doors and two windows - all in a roughly 13' X 17' space, I feel I'm making an improvement! (Fewer doors would also significantly impact the overall comfort and warmth of this house which has no central heat. There are only two wood-fueled stoves which rely on very generous open-door air flows to reach all the rooms.) I am actually hoping the eccentricity of a diagonal wall (the visible face of the c.p.) will add a welcome counterpoint to the otherwise very linear plan. My main regret is that the pantry must be at the intersection of two interior walls, not in an exterior corner. An exterior c.p, would be better from the point of view of using the considerable cool-th of my climate in a tradional pantry-esque way. I will have native bluestone shelves, at least on the lower ones so environmental cooling would work nicely if I can find a way to incorporate it. My stone shelves will be repurposed curbing that I've accumulated from a long life of attending farm auctions. For the present I've concocted a scheme to passively draw in cool exterior air and let it travel through the pantry as it warms; it's the best I've come up with to date. My vision of the pantry is strictly as a larder for food stuffs. I have toyed with other plans that incorporated a still-room function but have decided that simpler plans are better for my space. In my cellar I have the usual, enormous, 19th-c farmhouse (and still used) root cellars and cold rooms, so my larder will be mostly for dry, bulk and packaged goods storage. I have a niche in a nearby back hall for an upright freezer, and of course, have additional freezers in the cellar where the bulk of our stored-food lives. A small advantage I have over others' projects is that this room use is new and I can afford the time to build a actual-sized mock-up in situ. As soon as this room is cleared (it's presently a book storage room filled with boxes of books on shelves). I'll get busy and create the c.p. mock-up and bring my photos back for comments. No way I'll be accused of doing a drive-by reveal - you'll be seeing this kitchen so early that you'll see it when it is just cut-up and spray painted refrigerator boxes stapled to 2X4s. Many thanks for all the comments and to those who have taken the trouble to post pics and plans. I was quite crestfallen last night because in my mind the c.p. is something really cool that I saw first here on the forum and shamelessly co-opted from the wonderful ones here and on the FKB. L.

IMO if you plan to use this as butlers pantry , I agree a good idea, then I would install a sink and use this space exactly like a real butlers pantry ,. Have you foor storage on one side with doors a simple set of sliding doors to make access easy. On the other side a nice set of base cabinets some glass cabinets above for all your dishes you use for entertaining and glassware , liquor and the sink is IMO a must . Set that side up as the service area for the DR and you have a perfect set up and please there is no reason to worry about moisture

@rr4580 I'm not sure what you mean about changing my opinion? I would make the current fridge wall the beverage center. Most adult beverages are not being poured AT dinner - it's the casual appetizers and happy hour time that you want it accessible, when people will be in the great room. So I would put your wine fridge and ice maker on that side, and the fridge in the corner by the pantry. It won't crowd your range. The best kitchens are compact. Another thing you might consider - it's best to have your sink & DW pushed over to the end of the island so you have sufficient prep space next to the sink. Symmetry is overrated and only looks good on paper. My island is 10' as well. My sink and DW are at the very end (intentionally), leaving me 5' for prep. I use every inch. Next to the trash I have a 3 drawer stack with all of my prep tools. I've been in my house for 3 weeks and so far it's the most efficient kitchen I've worked in. It's also better not to have your sink & range lined up, as those are the 2 busiest places in your kitchen. Your DW door will overlap with your range, which means you will trip over it if you ever have it open while you cook (oven door may also interfere with the DW door). One more thing - make sure your overhang is at least 15" - otherwise your cabinets are going to get banged up and it won't be that comfortable to sit there.