You're giving way too much significance to transplant shock; forget that completely. Maybe that's more true of more delicate AVs or tropicals, but definitely not of Sans. The cat pee changed the chemical composition of that mix, you need to pls. change the mix completely ASAP; it's not negotiable if you wish the plant to survive. Sorry it's not what you want to hear, I doubt there's any way around this. FYI: Sans. are not delicate or fragile plants. In nature, they get knocked around plenty, pulled out the of the ground, walked on by cattle, all kinds of stuff. Being unpotted a couple of times in a short while is nothing, as long as you do it dry & give it a few days before watering it.

In my experience, once a cat pees on a rug, it will always pee on it because you cannot get the smell completely out. It's best to give the rug (after it's cleaned) to someone who does not have animals. And I agree that you should have your cat examined for possible urinary tract infection. It is also possible that the cat that is peeing in the wrong places feel threatened by the other cats and cannot comfortably use the litter box because some of the other cats consider it part of their territory and won't let him/her go there. This is especially a possibility if the cat that's peeing is a "new kid on the block."

Hi! Still hunting the web for answers? Hard core emergency with large areas? Unfortunately, enzyme cleaners cannot completely remove the bacteria/protein combination which creates this potent bouquet. Nor will vinegar, but it breaks the protein bonds really well. Baking powder will neutralize odors on the air or surface, but cannot kill the odor-causing bacteria. Please, beg of you! do not use lemon juice on … well, really anything but wood/lemon oil treatments in your home, and no applying oil anything over protein stains! Walk by the clove oil antibacterial cleaners this time! And no, pure ammonia will not cause a pet to re-mark the area. I read that on several sites and was discouraged indeed! The proteins in the urine are what triggers the re-mark habit. Please mask and ventilate area with fan first! For big areas, try the following 3 part solution: 1 part water to I part: Pure ammonia or at least 70 percent isopropyl rubbing alcohol or Tgel .5% minimum coal tar ( best on hard wood, and must be poured boiling) -for tgel or sulfur cleaners, a half cup to very hot water in standard bucket size. Add a capful of laundry detergent for bigger container (bucket) solutions, or a tablespoon of dishwashing liquid. Smaller or less than gallon solutions, a teaspoon. Let sit minimum two hours, then wash off with detergent. Best to dry again to test odor. The dying bacteria will release all kinds of noxious fumes, so the detergent step is necessary. Or apply solution again. Repeat. This may take several attempts. For the utterly committed, there is a final step, but if you used ammonia — by far the most powerful non-bleach antibacterial — I do not advise this, or only if all else fails. Yep, bleach, but it can never, ever be used directly on an unwashed urine stain. Detergent washing will remove the ammonia used, or in a fresh pet potty stain. But ammonia mixed with bleach creates hazardous, even lethal chemical gases, so wash and blow dry the stain at least three times BEFORE bleach! Required! Same solution as above, on bleachable fabrics only. Best method is a thick powdered bleach paste, mixed with hot water. I have worked rehab jobs with clients who wish to save hardwood flooring. And rescue home purchases the same. If a pet has repeatedly used the floor, I am afraid there is only one solution to this problem, today’s science permitting — they must be sanitized with ammonia. Ammonia will permanently stain unvarnished or partly varnished wood flooring. Wash then bleach method may be too dangerous, as wood may be saturated with pet ammonia. After that, a distressed paint look may be applied. I love this look, clean and country fresh! The other option is darkest varnish. A happy home is filled with life and live, especially pet love. And real love means real workbooks! If you arrived here, your heart truly fills a home with the greatest of furball love! Wishing a a happy and clean home to you all!

Brutus unanswered the difference between simple pee accidents from neutered or spayed animals and the pee/spray deposited by unfixed animals. Fixed-animal urine stink is bad, but depending on the length of time and the underlying material sometimes you can get it out. But I have washed cat towels from the bedding of an uneutered feral I took in last fall perhaps two or three dozen times and I can still smell the pee/spray stink. And I use a Euro f/l washing machine and can, and do, go to 205F with all kinds of additives. And nautrally I started when these were fresh sprayings and treated them with several different enzymes and urine smell removing treaments. (BTW, I find a product called Get Serious to be better than Nature's Miracle and Petzyme. All available at Petsmart-type places.) Anyway, if the rug smells of simple cat urine odor and it has been untreated for awhile, I doubt you could get it out because you might have to use chemicals (enzymes, for instance that are damaging to natural woolf fibers) or such vigorous cleaning that you would damage the rug. But if you wanted to take the chance you could try. However if the smells are from unneutered animals, I wouldn't even bring it to my house to try. I do feral cat rescue and am totally over the yuck factor of cat pee, but the smell of it still drives me bats. HTH, Molly~