Not sure how to continue or if I even should
Eddie Shell
4 years ago
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Eddie Shell
4 years agost5330
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoRelated Discussions
Should I continue???
Comments (36)It's hard to tell, but this does seem to be the wrong shade of aqua. But before you abandon aqua or your white sheer drapes, my question is -- what style do you want for this room? What is your vision? Are you happy with the elements you already have, or do you want a drastic change? Do you want a beachy, clean, look? or do you want a more traditional style? Are you unsure? If you want to change your style, then I wouldn't make these decisions based solely on trying to work with things you already have (drapes, furniture, etc). Your current decor and paitn color are all nice, but if you're no longer 'feeling' them, trust your gut and move in another direction, and don't let your old things hold you back. Your sofas are neutral, and with their rectangular lines they really could go either way (traditional with a slight tropical touch or a more current beachy look). If you want to keep the style and just freshen it up, though, by all means choose a color that works with the things you already have (and for that i think the grasscloth paint color or a lighter celery would be best). It's just a question of what look you want. Also, if you love the idea of aqua and want a more tropical/beachy look overall, would you be open to bringing the aqua in as an accent color rather than the primary paint color? I.e. in throw pillows & other accessories? And maybe you could save up for curtains that have a little bit of an aqua accent, whether it's a pattern or a neutral/off-white curtain with an aqua border/stripe? That would look nice with a neutral wall color or the grasscloth wall covering/ paper that was posted earlier in the thread. If you do want to stick with an aqua wall color, here's an aqua room that i saw on a blog today that had a nice color. I don't know if this blue is too subdued to complement your coral, but I think this is a picture of benjamin moore bali (picture is from a redo posted on thisyounghouse.com)....See MoreHow should I clean my pond? When should I clean my pond?
Comments (0)Some ponds are never cleaned and the ponds and its occupants survive very well. However, a large number of ponds are created with high fish densities or are built in locations were the pond receives a great deal of debris over the year. Even if you start out with just a few fish initially, in a healthy pond they will breed to the point that the number of fish will push the environmental limits of your pond and biofilter. The debris may be the result of leaves blowing into the pond, the die-back of vegetative pond plants as well as fish wastes. It is these latter types of conditions that will necessitate you cleaning the pond eventually. The two most likely time points for cleaning are in the fall, to reduce the amount of accumulated muck on the bottom of the pond as you head into winter, or in the spring to remove material accumulated over the winter from leaves blowing into the pond, accumulated fish waste or catkins and similar materials shed by trees as they leaf out. Cleaning in the fall reduces wastes in the bottom of the pond which may turn anaerobic if sufficient oxygen is not available, creating a breeding ground for harmful bacteria, or which may decompose, releasing ammonia and other dangerous chemicals that can be trapped under the ice. The build-up of these pollutants can lead to fish kills over the winter months. While keeping a hole in the ice over winter will help alleviate the accumulation of gases, cleaning the pond before winter sets in will reduce the overall potential for problems. Cleaning the pond in the spring may help reduce diseases and parasites that often occur as the pond and its biology warms up for the summer, as well as reduce the overall availability of nutrients that stimulate algae growth. The following are a few approaches that have been successfully used to clean the pond. 1. If the pond has a bottom drain periodic changes of water (typically 10% per week) have been used to evacuate the accumulated debris from the bottom of the pond. This simple approach minimizes the amount of material that is removed at any one time as well as adds water to the pond on a periodic basis. Care must be taken when adding water to be sure that you have minimized the addition of chlorine and chloramines typically present in many municipal water supplies. This can be done either by pre-treating the water with dechlorination agents or by using a whole-house water filter with an activated carbon cartridge. 2. Using a net such as used in swimming pools is helpful for cleaning out large materials that have settled to the bottom of the pond. However, if there is a very large amount of debris in the pond you should be careful to either remove the fish or use supplemental aeration to avoid creating significant oxygen deprivation due to stirring up anaerobic or large amounts of oxygen-consuming muck. If you notice a rotten egg smell this indicates the presence of hydrogen sulfide. You should immediately stop stirring up the bottom and get the fish out of the water as soon as possible before continuing with the cleaning. 3. You can use a variety of devices for vacuuming the bottom of the pond. Some of these use a garden hose to create a suction through a venturi device. The potential problem with these devices is that the pond may fill up with too much water during a prolonged vacuuming and you may have a potential problem of adding chlorine and chloramines to your pond if you do not pretreat the water. Wet/dry shop vacs, specially those with an attachment for a garden hose to provide a continuous drain, have also been used. These devices may drain a large amount of water from the pond in a short time and therefore it is necessary to either replace the water or use the garden hose to add the water back into the pond through the biofilter. Care must be exercised in reintroducing water taken from the bottom of the pond in that it may be depleted of oxygen as well as have very high suspended sediment levels that may create problems for the fish. A third approach is to use a pump capable of handling a moderate level of solids (such as a sump pump) to pull water from the bottom of the pond and pass it through a device to strain out the majority of the solids and then recirculate the water back into the pond. Filtering materials such as old sweaters, panty hose, etc. have all been used with some success in this approach. In any of these approaches, if using an electrically powered device running on house voltage make sure that you have it plugged into a GFI protected circuit for your own safety. Ronaye, Steve and David...See MoreNot sure how to continue growing my Fiddle Leaf Fig, seeking advice
Comments (9)The best time to do any kind of heavy pruning is not Spring, as in the first day of ...... But Spring, as in the last day of, sounds about right to me. There are 3 reasons for this. 1) In early spring, indoor trees are only sort of maybe thinking about getting a little serious about starting to grow like they might mean it some day. On the last day of spring, they will probably be at the peak of vitality, and their food/energy making ability will be peaking as well, so the recovery time, during which they will be more vulnerable to biotic AND abiotic pathogens, will last only a small fraction of the time it would should you prune now. 2) If you prune your tree now, it's going to put on a lot of growth with long internodes that will work at cross purposes with you trying to ensure your tree is compact and full. What do you do with all that leggy winter growth and the leggy growth your tree has now? How about leave it alone until June, then prune hard? It would be to your tree's advantage. Pruning hard in June means you take off ALL leggy growth from the previous winter. In the summer months, all growth will be tight - with very short internodes. Then, starting in Fall, let the tree grow wild (unpruned) all of next late fall/ winter/ early spring, and remove the leggy winter growth again in June of '20. This means that all internodes from the time you start your pruning sessions, will be short and your tree will be as tight as it can be within the effects of influences like light, temp, and fertility. 3) All plants have natural rhythms. Learning to work with their growth cycle instead of against it is much better for and easier on your trees; and, it makes you a better nurturer for planning your heavy work to take advantage of when your plants are at their best, while making allowances when when the vitality level of your plants is at low ebb, and Also, it doesn't much matter how sharp your pruners are because whatever internode you cut through when you prune is going to die back to the first proximal node, even if you used a laser beam. What you do with your tree now will determine what you'll have to work with in the future. IOW, you probably shouldn't expect the tree to provide you with a structure YOU can build on. You'll need to do that yourself - but it's very easy in this case. I see 3 trunks and a bit of a single wild branch. Is that right? The wild branch should be pruned back to 2 healthy leaves. Of the 3 trunks, the thickest should be the tallest. The next thickest should be pruned back so it is about 2/3 the ht of the tallest trunk after the tallest has been pruned. The thinnest trunk should be about 1/2 the ht of the tallest after it's been pruned. Important: When you make your cuts, make sure the top leaf on the trunks you're cutting faces AWAY from the vertical midline of the pot.If this ^^^ was your pruning cut, you can be sure the branch in the axil (crotch) of this leaf will grow to the right (absent effects of phototropism - growing toward the light). If you'd cut just above the lower leaf, you can be sure it will grow to the left. Plan your cuts so the new branches will grow outward from the center and not inward. If you're interested in what I'm saying, I'll help you with how to keep your tree from getting so far out of control it needs a hard prune to reset it to something you can build a canopy on. Obviously, you don't want your canopy at ceiling ht where (lack of) light will be a serious limitation. Al...See MoreI'm not sure if I should do two rugs, one in front of the sink and on
Comments (7)can you put in a new vanity light? there is nothing spa-like about it. You can put that one aside, (find a cheaper option w/lights that point down!) and install one of your own. this one is from lowes Ditto w/knobs on the cabinet. and maybe a new window covering. You can find bamboo blinds at lowes. grab a few plants and hang them from the ceiling like shown. (get little screw in J hooks. that can be removed and patched when you leave) see how cute? find a garden stool (HomeGoods) and put it between toilet/sink. or under window. bring in baskets. maybe hang a shelf over toilet. get some towel hangers. pretty towels. greenery, some pictures. maybe paint the wall a diff color. bamboo blinds, wicker baskets, new rug. all will give you a diff feel. how about some type of bamboo shelf caddy? maybe next to toilet or somewhere else? But you need to start w/a light fixture! these are simple DIY privacy shades i'd prob find a larger rug. one that spans toilet/sink, and covers a good portion of the tile (not these colors,,,just showing you the size large fluffy, washable white one, would prob be best get something that stretches from door to wall and tub to toilet or, try a wood / teak or bamboo, mat for exiting the shower and get a smaller rug for in front of the sink. you really shouldn't have a toilet rug. (I mean, you can, unless you have 3 guys using this bathroom. in that case it would get kind of gross.) they have a cork mat too hide the toilet supplies on the other side. maybe find a storage caddie for those...See Morest5330
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