I have some JCP panels I'm fixing to hang after I get the curtain rods right. The law here in Texas is specific, and consumer oriented, and I'm not going to be rooting around in some store trying to find matching lengths if mine don't match. Here in Texas we have the Deceptive Trade Practices Act. It is not about cost, it is about truth in advertising. If it is advertised as 84 inches it dang well better be. If two panels are off by 1/4 or so I probably wouldn;t fuss, but much more than that? Yeah. Would I take them to court? Yeah. Many states have similar consumer friendly laws, to protect consumers. I do believe that a custom panel might have finer materials, finer workmanship. But a panel sold new at any cost which announces that it is 84 inches long, better be. I'm not a rug that manufacturers can walk on me, and being from Texas, I'm not afraid to rodeo with them. If consumers insist that 84 inches means 84 inches, there's no question in my mind that in a short while, 84 inches WOULD mean 84 inches. Made in China or anywhere else does not have to mean shoddy and mismeasured. After all, Swiss-made watches are said to be some of the finest anywhere. It is all about consumer expectation, and I expect that 84=84 and I believe it is the manufacturer and not the area of origin that is responsible for lax practices in manufacturing. One last comment: Sellers love to make YOU dance when THEY are at fault. No, I'm not coming into the store. If my panels are off, THEY can find a seamstress local to me.

What exactly do you mean about doing panels with grommets? Is there going to be a rod going all the way across the door that is attached to the wall? You can install a curtain, shade or blind directly on the door even though it is steel. If it is for light control I would install a sheer or lace curtain with a rod at top and bottom. That way you could still get the light, but protection from the sun bleaching the floors. Another option would be one of those swing arm rods.

Unfortunately, I procrastinated on this project and now my house is torn apart for remodeling, so it will be some time before I can tackle sewing four panels of draperies. My work space is now filled with the contents of my kitchen. I did order all of the materials though. I assembled the corner brackets and rods and was able to determine that I can use supports as close to the corner as possible and the fabric will meet in the center as I mentioned in an earlier post (see quote below). "I have received advice in another thread that if I place the last grommet 3" from the edge, there will be room for the supports and the fabric will still extend into the corner. I think that should work." I got the rods and brackets at the link below The rods were the ball style in the closeout section. Great prices. Here is a link that might be useful: Swagsgalore Corner Brackets

I am just now reading all these comments from 15 years ago. Louise 54, did you get your draperies completed for you DIL's bay window? I imagine you have probably done many treatments in the past years. I have done many such draperies as a helper for a drapery expert. Then I went on the road driving an 18-wheeler with my husband for the past 11 years. Some ladies at a local church asked me to make pinch-pleat draperies for their baptismal. I had a difficult time remembering all the specs we used. When I looked up how-to videos, I discovered the each video did them differently. Your comments are from so many years ago that I am certain that my suggestions will not help you, but I would like to add that I have a 54x120 inch table covered with batting and canvas that is most helpful. After I cut all face panels and all lining, and have sewn the individual widths of each, I press side seams and press and hem the face panels with a blind-stitch machine and the lining with a straight stitch machine. Then I draw a line on my table top with the finished length of my draperies. I place the bottom of the face panels, wrong side up, on the line, placing cloth-covered square weights at the corners and the seams of the face panels. I then place the lining, right side up, 2 inches above the bottom of the draperies and 1-1½ from the edge (depending on the size of the hem you intend to make). I use push pins to secure the bottom of the drapery face and straight pins to attach the lining to the face. I put pins in the seams to secure the lining to the face. When they are together, I gently smooth the face from the bottom of the hem toward the short edge of my table. The lining should go to that edge and the face should hang over the edge 8 inches. After I press the side hem over the lining edge with a double 1 or 1½-inch hem on the outside edges, I lay the 4-inch buckram on that edge, bring up the face flat over the buckram, iron the edge, fold the 4 inches under the buckram, and press down. I mark my pleats and spaces with pins.. When this is completed, I use my blind-stitch machine to sew the side hems. Then I fold each pleat and sew a 4-inch stitch on each length. I will form the desired pleat. Voila! Thank you. Now I want to come in off the road and sew.