Advice - length and depth of built in buffet area
I am doing a built in china buffet in a small condo and need advice on how long to make the run, how far out to build the lower cabinets, and the distance from the uppers to lowers. the goal is to maximize storage space as much as possible without encroaching too much on the hallway and making sure the hallway entrance and passageway can be used in future once this is permanently onto the wall.
(Note: the Hallway is a turned hallway, meaning the hall does not extend parallel to the wall to the right, you walk back past the wall and go deeper into the condo to bedrooms behind the dinign room wall. So coming and going out of the opening its like you are turning a corner.)
1) how long of a run to build - 60”, 66”, or 78”?
there is a challenge in that the end of the available wall is a hallway and needs to be accessible to move things in and out (like if I ever need a new mattress!) so I need to leave room. The blank wall is 90” but the adjacent wall impinges on this and the hallway entrance Overhangs that by 6”. (See image below that show the different options . I also have Picts of the Existing space with the current furniture that Im replacing .
the design choices are
1) a 60” run that is mimicks the existing china cabinet
2) a 66” run with some extra shelves
3) a 78” run with more cabinets
...the length of the run also depends on the depth of the lower cabinets ....see my next question 2...
2) how far out should I build the lower cabinets - 12”, 15”, 18”?
i am using 12” upper cabinets to make the lower base of my buffet built in. The cabinet designer suggested asking the installer to build the wall out 3” so the bottom sticks out slightly more than the top.this also gives more practical space to put food dishes during a meal etc. the more I build out from the wall the narrower the usbale space gets near the hallway. Will 12” be too useless if I don’t build anything out? Is 15” (hang the 12”cabinet built out 3”) relay going to be noticeable use? Do I need to get to like 19” to make it worthwhile?
3) Should mix 30&36” length on the upper run or just keep all 30“?
this is less of an issue but want to get practical advice. I happen to already have a spare 36”long 9” cabinet so I could mix it into the design - But not if it will be a bad idea. I like the drawing that has the mix of 36 and 30 length Because I think it gives visual interest and also slighty more storage. ...but as a trade off it makes the distance from the counter shorter ....now it’s not in a kitchen so doesn’t need to be totally open to use ...would the backsplash height of 12” and 18” be awkward to use? Should I just make it all 18” across?
here are some pictures of the existing space and some design options
( note: on some of these iterations they were done early and the measurement is off on the wall length I tried to make notes )
Comments (12)
mama goose_gw zn6OH
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoDo you actually need the counter for buffet service, or can the uppers sit on the counter? For maximizing space I'd omit the angled cabinets, and make the lowers 16-18" deep. Make it as wide as possible, while leaving adequate space to navigate the hallway.
R M
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Full Depth Fridge built in look next to cabinets
Comments (6)What is your current aisle width to the island? This is important. If you are comfortable reducing that width everything else is doable. We have a full depth Samsung french door that is in a run of base and wall cabinets that are pulled forward to match the depth of the refrigerator. The added bonus for us is that while the cabinets are pulled forward the counter depth is an extra 6" deep along this run so we added appliance garages along the whole length under the upper cabinets. The stand mixer, the toaster, the food processor, the bread machine, etc. are all housed in there but we still have enough functional room in front of the appliance garages---about 18"---to use for a sandwich and breakfast making area. So much depends on your actual measurements and how you intend to use the space. Good luck....See MoreNeed advice resolving depth issue with built-in MW
Comments (14)Hollysprings, if molding is being run beneath the mw, then you are saying run the electrical into the back of the cabinet above, and then into an adjacent cabinet, is this correct? Aesthetically, this may be the preferred method. However, I would think from a mw replacement standpoint it would be better to run the electrical thru the 3" bracing between the mw and the cabinet above, and then into an adjacent cabinet. This would eliminate the need to unintall and reinstall molding below a mw every time a mw is replaced. Is there anything wrong with this logic? Electrical can always be run into the above cabinet if a taller mw is purchased later. Is there anything wrong with this logic? Trebruchet, thanks for weighing in on the subject. I would think that in the long run it would certainly be less expense to pay the initial $$$ of increasing wall depth rather than continue to pay someone to install new otc microwaves over the years since they all lack durability. In my home, electrical does not appear to be in that area on the garage side but electrical outlets are below on what will be the coffee bar side. However, there is a pull down attic ladder about 4 ft. past the door into the garage which is immediately adjacent to the area being discussed. Therefore, there is easy access to all the framing in this area. I don't know if this helps, but I thought it might. Is it structurally OK to install a header and jack studs if this is a support wall? At this point it appears I need someone who knows what they are doing to come in and advise me regarding my best options. I don't want to get into an electrical "hornet's nest." We may need to open up the wall to see what the situation is in that area. I'm deeply grateful to both of you for your professional advice....See Morebuilt in "hutch" or "buffet" in dining room
Comments (12)If you include the sink, then the coffee maker will work well, and you could have a roll-out tray for it, from one of the pantries, similar to amanda's in this thread. Do you have an upper cabinet next to the fridge? You can put the MW on a shelf beside it, or have a MW drawer in the island. How do you use the MW? Mostly for kid's snacks, re-heating left-overs from the fridge, cooking rice or steaming vegetables? That would be the deciding factor for me. ETA, I have an 18" deep buffet in the DR, with storage below (not pantry items) and open shelves above, for china. I made it 3.5" taller than a standard counter, because it has a vent under it, which I didn't want to reroute. That height works fine for us. Although I rarely serve food from it, it's convenient for extra table service and to place lids from the serving dishes on the table. Sometimes I scoop papers and other clutter from the table and quickly deposit them on the buffet before dinner, but then I have to declutter eventually. I really like having it--it adds a lot of personality to the room, and I can see my pretty china from where I sometimes prep at the end of the island. :) The most important item I store there is the fire extinguisher, because it's not in the kitchen, but very close, and in the path from my bedroom to the kitchen....See MoreKitchen Layout Advice - Built In Dining Area
Comments (18)Not sure where the fridge is in this layout. If counter-depth, I'm assuming it'll be at least 48" wide, and will then occupy good chunk of real estate. If std. depth fridge, I don't see it indicated and it would have an impact on transit routes. Suggest keeping island as-drawn to keep access to wall of cabinets and butler's pantry as open as possible. Agree with many above comments you should ditch built-in seating, especially if this is the only dining space you'll have. You might also want to consider orienting a longer dining table 90 degrees, so as to be placed like the island. Looks like the side walls may be longer than the back wall?? If using drawers for dishes, make sure you opt for full extension, soft close undermount slides that are fastened to a cabinet back MORE than 1/4" thick. The weight of a stack of dinner plates alone can cause attachment to cabinet back to fail. Never mind failure of the slide itself. You'll want slides with static load rating of at least 125 lbs. and dynamic load rating of at least 75 lbs. Check to see if you have those options for attachment and load. Flipping pantry won't accomplish much unless doorway is moved. If doorway gets moved, small run of cabinets on outside corner of pantry will be lost. I suggest you consider a framed entry (no door) to pantry, and eliminate lost space for allowance of door swing. I also think location of the fridge would be a huge factor in assessing orientation of the island....See More
shirlpp
4 years agoR M
4 years agomama goose_gw zn6OH
4 years agoR M
4 years agoR M
4 years agoR M
4 years ago
thinkdesignlive
4 years agomama goose_gw zn6OH
4 years agoSo, if you purchase 9" wide 15" or 18" deep bases (IIRC Ikea has cabinets in those depths), then you could sister in a couple of 2x4's behind the 36" wide, 12" deep base cabinet, or use them as a wall cleat to support the counter material, if you pull the 36" x 12 cabinet forward to 18". Something like this:
You could make the 9 x 12 cabinets on the upper run 42" tall, have them sit on the counter, and have a 12" gap between the counter and the 36x12x30 upper:
The 36" base cabinet could be set back a couple of inches, for interest. The new base cabinets would have toe-kicks--I assume your contractor will make a toe-kick for the existing cabinet?
R M
4 years ago
mama goose_gw zn6OH