I had a couple of pink flamingos in my yard for awhile. I named them 'Tongue' and 'Cheek'. They finally died. I think of,embarrassment.

A PE will perform a detailed set of calculations for the exact application. All the codes have margin built into them based on the worse case for the conditions defined. In many cases these conditions can be changed to allow for a different answer. Wood species, wood grade, and actual loading conditions (snow, wind, seismic, structral differences from the assumed design used for the code tables, etc.) for a location can be exactly accounted for. Even a 20 PSF snow load is not used in most of Texas and the south. The fact that the tables in the IRC do not cover this case does not mean you cannot design for it. It means they saved space in the code book for more important things. Table R502.5(1) covers girder and header spans in exterior load bearing walls. It only covers #2 wood, assumes the lowest strength wood, and makes assumptions about roof type in load determination. While many (probably most) houses have gable roofs, a hip roof and a header near a corner have different loading parameters. Te code tables are designed to allow a non-engineer to use them and produce a structure that will meet the minimum code under the most pessimistic assumptions. An analysis by a PE of the exact structure and loads will need to be stamped off to be acceptable to the AHJ, but changing any of the assumptions inherent in the code tables will change the final design. The code does not cover everything, including flitch beams, various engineered wood products (I-joists, gluelams in there many flavors, etc.). The manufacturers typically provide the design services to satisfy the AHJ requirement for an engineering review and a PE stamp. Many of the early I-joist long spans had problems. The code allows 1/360 deflection. A 30 foot I-joist with this deflection moves 1 inch at mid-span and maximum load. Structurally fine, but the complaints of bouncy floors poured in. The deflection must be reduced below the code to crate a decent floor. Most quickly changed the Ârules they use. The codes do not even address 'more than minimum' requirements that can arise from the use of large ceramic tiles, stone, etc. The normal floor deflection limits are not suitable for these materials. Joist must be spaced closer, have additional height, or be stiffened in other ways to provide a stable installation base. Closer is usually not a very good solution. If you have a standard gable roof house of 1 or 2 stories with no oversize openings in bearing walls the code tables will allow you to build something without paying a PE. Change from 'standard' and you will need a PE (or architect in some places) to seal off the plans. I have a PE and perform a lot of these design reviews. A recent one was an owner who wanted 16 inch sidelights on the front door. This requires a larger header, but there was not enough height to use a plain wood header (it was heading towards 2x14 size). A 2x10 flitch beam with #8 steel neatly solved the problem for a pretty minimal cost. The AHJ will inspect to the drawing for bolt placement and jack stud requirements (3 per side), along with checking that the installation is in accordance with the drawing.

Ok, first this roof is original (built in 1928), why they used 2x6's I don't know. And yes the floor joists (ceiling/liv.space/below) are parallel to the roof rafters, (and tying in the exterior walls). Which is such a relief, since I was feeling a little nervous everytime the wind would gust and I'd hear the rafters creak. But then again, regarding lateral thrust, wind pressure, and live load, the house has lasted 77 years, so I guess how bad could it be...right? Now Mongo, I am a builders son, and a remodeler myself, so I should know and I shouldn't get confused, and I know what a gable is when one protrudes from a perpendicular roof slope, but I'm a little confused. The roof has, looking from the street, its front main slope pitching up and away from you, and coming down (and continuing away from you) to the rear of the house. Back to the street view, coming toward you on the right side is a high pitched gable roof with its slopes to the left and right. I'd post pics if I could figure how. Also, any additional thoughts on the previious or further subjects regarding the project welcome. Eg. regarding insulating, I'm of the school that if we can shut down air movement with dense packing, then ridge/soffit vents aren't needed (and therefore I'll not need to scab 2x10's onto the 2x6's). thanks, yitzie

"I like ti leave 20” betweent the counter and the bottom of the uppers" I disagree. Standard is 18" distance between the counter and the bottom of the upper cabinets. There is a reason why 18" is standard. Lower than that may not fit taller appliances like a coffee maker or blender, and also gives a cramped look. Higher than that, and the shelves get to be unreachable for the average-height woman. Here are standard heights for kitchen cabinetry: Floor to countertop = 36" Countertop to uppers = 18" As suggested above, one good proportion for stacked upper cabinets with 9' ceilings is 30" +18". That leaves 6" for crown molding. Whoever told you it would be custom is dead wrong. That is a big red flag not to use that contractor. I personally like smaller 3" crown molding, especially in a kitchen the size of yours. Also crown molding is really expensive, yet gives no utility; I'd rather have thinner crown and more cabinet space. So I would suggest 33" + 18" proportion cabinets with a 3" crown. Cabinet companies that make cabinets in 3" increments rather than 6" increments are a little less common, but it still is not custom. It is available more and more these days from middle-of-the-road cabinet companies. I also suggest you shop for frameless cabinets, not framed.