You can pick out that filler depending on what they used - I tried it just to make sure in case we wanted to use something else/tile in the future as I used a lot of screws. I didn't want the kitchen higher than the living room. It would be a nightmare to do, but you can do it. The luan is what is causing the problem - that needs to be pulled up and replaced with plywood not luan. Standard practice is luan and no one we talked to was willing to use nicer plywood even at our insistance. Luan is the smooth surface - the didn't need to use something different. We made the choice to use better plywood as we choose DIY/better materials with the money we saved on labor (so, we probably aren't saving any money and its a lot of work, but we are getting some better stuff). Even if you put the vinyl under the cabinets, vinyl is easy to cut, but it also depends if they used the glue down method vs. tape. We taped ours down just in case I wanted to change my mind in the future or we ruined it redoing the hardwood floors or something else given we are redoing the rest of the house. We glued our one seam under the fridge and we probably didn't need vinyl under there but we have the ice maker and I know what's under there (I also put it under the oven but not dishwasher except where I could reach). The real questions are how did the put it down and they probably are trying to do what is easiest for them. I would want the 1/4 inch luan removed and replaced with 1/4 plywood, screw down (not nail) with deck screws so they will not rust and are solid and they need to be counter-sinked, it filled (let it set for a few days), sanded smooth, then use the tape method for the vinyl, cover with molding. (I did everything but lifting the plywood and the molding myself (husband did that), so it is an easy thing to do, so don't let them tell you how hard it is and I am not a big woman). Putting down vinyl is one of the easiest things we've done (and windows surprisingly). Debi, were you the one who they put the wrong color in? If you were, I'm not so sure given this is the second mistake, I'd want them fixing it.

Hi Janice, I too have dogs that are loved (well one of them anyway :), no rugs and constantly vacuuming fur. I have lived in a house with Western Red Cedar porches and yes the claws left marks on the wood. Any softer wood like cedar or pine will most likely end up with tell tale marks. Personally I wouldn't do pressure treated, which 98% of the time is Southern Yellow Pine, both because it is soft and treated with some pretty nasty chemicals. A sweaty dog on a hot day lying on pressure treated material will absorb the chemicals into their feet and skin. Human feet as well.... I don't have any science to back this up, and I'm sure I just made myself a target for the PT industry, but in my book common sense dictates.... If you go on our site www.soluslumber.com you can see several hardwood decking options. Give us a call and we can talk about your specific situation and see if we can come up with a cost effective solution. Hardwoods won't guarantee no marks (I've seen dogs leave marks on bluestone), but it will go a long way to helping keep your deck looking beautiful.

@wiscokid I had that thought as well... Of course there was added confusion because he usually does Sherwin Williams but I wanted a specific Benjamin Moore white and asked him to get it at BM rather than matching it in SW. @jellytoast This is the one guy I let my husband handle on his own, and apparently there was a lot of verbal agreement because the paperwork is completely insufficient. He has also been doing a lot of dry wall and texture repair for us as well, which complicates scope of work even more when the two of them start riffing on things in person. I know I know... Believe me, it has been a point of contention several times and will never happen again, but it is unfortunate that it is too late with the painter. I do have very specific quotes and agreements with every other contractor, and almost all of them have had me go pick out and pay for the materials myself so I get exactly what I want. Certainly wish I had done the same thing on paint. @sofaspud The trim is already an issue because I originally went a long with my husband when he said he wanted semi-gloss trim. Then I started doing more of my own paint research and realized I wanted satin instead. Well, apparently the one and only thing this painter did on time was buy the paint, and he'd already purchased semi-gloss. I think it will be about $200-250 if I want to change at this point, and I'm very tempted to do that. He did say he could add a certain type of lacquer to dull the sheen a bit, so he did one room that way for us today and then I'll decide if that's OK or not tonight. As I'm typing that out, I realize it will make touchups difficult and honestly sounds like a bad idea compared to spending another $250...

Apologies. It's particle/chip board. And yes that's uncommon, yet not unheard of. From research I see There's parts of the world that use particle board as a subfloor material. Australia has a latex self leveling product to use on particle board, but I can't find anything definitive here in America. I'm at a point now where I won't be ripping It up and starting new. With that, I suppose my best bet is sanding down edges, installing 1/4" plywood, filling any gaps/seems, and if the floor is still off kilter use the ol' water based self leveling compound.