Pour-Over Cone Suggestion?
chisue
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
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Olychick
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoElmer J Fudd
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Framing over poured half-wall
Comments (2)Six of one... The only thing I would change is to go to a min. 1" of XPS on the below-grade portion of the wall as it will ensure the wall is warm enough to prevent condensation in extreme cold weather and will prevent mould in hot weather better than the 3/4" boards. (SeeRR-0202 p. 9) You'll have to use high-density fiberglass to meet the IECC 2012 R Values....See MorePouring new concrete over old, will this work?
Comments (3)Is this concrete construction suspended? Is there a crawl space or basement below? You may find that the concrete is formed in a 'pan' made up of the joists and wood installed below as the bottom. Some 'pans' constructed this way first had a layer of coal clinkers and ash and then concrete poured on top of that. I'd say leave it and do what SoneTech suggests. No need to go deep with your concrete to avoid cracking; just go to the level you want with the appropriate bonding agent and concrete mix...and then use the Ditra....See MoreHelp!--Can I pour gypcrete floor over gypcrete floor?
Comments (0)Hi, we are finishing our basement and putting marmoleum and wool carpet over the floor. The original floor had a significant slope toward an old floor drain, so our contractor suggested hiring a floor leveling company to pour gypcrete over the cement and level the floor. I googled gypcrete and found that a lot of people have had lot of problems with gypcrete over the years, so I was hesitant. My contractor said that gypcrete has improved within the last few years and that the only thing with gypcrete is that it can't get wet. I trust my contractor, so we gave him the go ahead. Well, I don't know what the floor workers were smoking that day, but all they did was pour a new gypcrete floor; it still sloped dramatically, it wasn't level at all. I complained to the contractor who contacted the floor company, who promised to redo it. I asked the owner of the company if pouring gypcrete over gypcrete was a problem. "Not at all," he assured me. What do I know? So, again we gave him the go ahead. I asked the contractor to meet the floor workers on the day of the new pour and be very explicit re what was to happen. In the morning, he texted me that he talked to the workers and everything was proceeding nicely. Well, when I came home from work that evening, I went downstairs to check the floor. All the workers did was pour a couple of patches of gypcrete over a couple of areas of the floor. This was not the smooth level floor we were promised. Even worse was that one of the new patches had dried and was cracked and coming off in large pieces. So, once again I complained to the contractor who called the owner of the company; he is out of town and will be back on Monday. I'm sure that he will promise to clean off the cracked gypcrete and redo everything to make it right. My question is, what are the long-term consequences of pouring gypcrete over gypcrete? What other options do we have? I imagine the best option would be to have the whole thing ripped out and have a brand new cement floor poured; but that would be thousands, especially now that the gypcrete would have to be ripped out, as well. I want as much information as possible so I can be prepared to talk with the floor company owner. Any info or suggestions you have would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance for your help....See MoreMy project: pouring concrete countertops Over existing tile
Comments (34)No I did not remove the tile except around the sink to remove the old sink. I built forms from wood but the wood on the front was removed after the concrete set for a couple hours and the wood underneath removed the next day. Here is a photo of the concrete in the pass through window after I removed the front mold part. I left the wood underneath to support the overhang until the concrete reached near full strength the next day. You can see some leakage on the right I had to chisel away later. If you do this, I highly recommend caulking all the molds - I only did some areas because I thought I had screwed the soft wood tight enough but I was wrong, the resulting leaks caused all my problem areas. I should have caulked all the seams on the wood molds and I would not have had the problem. The counters still look great after months of use, BTW! here are some pics of the molds: Big mess caused by leak- made painting the cabinets later a lot more work to sand off all that gunk. The leaks also created air gaps in the mold area I couldn't see until the concrete was set, I later had to hand trowel a thick mixture on those areas to repair it. It will never look as smooth as the mold-formed areas. My plan for next spring is to tile the backsplash if budget allows - the beadboard wallpaper is serving its purpose for now but tile will look nicer....See MoreFun2BHere
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agosjerin
4 years agomurraysmom Zone 6a OH
4 years agoElmer J Fudd
4 years agochisue
4 years agoElmer J Fudd
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agochisue
4 years agoElmer J Fudd
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agochisue
4 years agoElmer J Fudd
4 years agocarolv90
4 years agoBookwoman
4 years agojakkom
4 years agolast modified: 4 years ago
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