Ignoring wire gauges, margin, and other factors relevant to electrical work, the available power is given by volts, rms times amperes, rms. So

• 120V x 20A = 2400W
• 240V x 20A = 4800W
• 240V x 40A = 9600W

For reference, Wolf single wall ovens require 30A, 240V circuits, and dual ovens 50A circuits. The actual power draws of the respective ovens is somewhat less than the product of voltage times amperage rating of the circuits.

My electric oven requires 50A, but it only uses that for it's self-cleaning function. How much your normal oven use would be impacted by having only 2400W of power, I don't know. When I was at a relative's house for Thanksgiving this year, my host was roasting the turkey using a 120V table-top roaster, probably on a 15A circuit. It was fine.

The 240V 40A would be excellent but the work required is too much, (in my opinion, not my wife's) My electrician thinks making the outlet 240 20amps is doable (I have a independent 120 line at the stove and another 120 independent outlet nearby, all with 12g wire. 4800W should be plenty to cook?

You're saying that you have two independent 120V 20A circuits available? They don't serve anything else? In order to use them, they would have to a) not serve any other receptacles and b) be on opposite phases at the breaker box. You would have to replace their breakers with one double breaker. Then you would have to replace the two receptacle boxes with one. And even after you did all this, I'm not sure it could be made legal!

You aren’t dealing with a real electrician. Don’t let your neighbor burn your house down.

You need to assess the age and condition of the rest of the kitchen. Post pictures. There may be other options than the gut remodel staring you in the face that you’re trying to not do.

A basic single oven will work fine on 20A @ 240V. I doubt you found a true wall oven that will run on 120V. What are you looking at?

Stove and Oven are NOT interchangeable terms. A stove has a cooktop (burners) in addition to the oven. Those are not going to run on 20A.

I am using a NYC Licensed Electrician; he will be back here next week. I've also checked with another electrician and explained my situation and what the electrician has planned = he was fine with all. I wouldn't put my family's life in danger. My house is only 14 years old and was built, in every aspect, to very strict NYC code. Upon my electricians exam a few minutes ago = the current oven is wired with 3/12 gauge wires on it's own circuit breaker and independent of any other connections. I may have misspoke about the 110V oven. Thanks for the input

If the oven to be connected doesn't have a requirement for a neutral connection, then a 12/2 w/GND cable can be purposed to provide 240 Vac at 20A nominal by marking the white wire another color appropriate for a hot lead at each end, and wiring the cable in the breaker box to a two-pole 20A breaker. I"m sure your electricians know the caveats related to continuous use power limits for such a circuit as a function of cable type. (There are a lot of factors that influence the ampacity of a cable, so they can provide you with a more exact limit.)

In my search I would conservatively aim for a 3800W maximum oven that doesn't need a neutral conductor and get your electrician's approval before purchase.

I had a reliable local repairman here and then I had a technician from JennAir take a look. I spoke to JennAir customer Service and II also spoke to the regulator manufacturer (Maxitrol); I was told that regulators are made to unique specifications for each model. This particular JennAir model is 14 years old and discontinued; the parts are no longer available (NLA). I've checked Ebay and Craig;s list, to no avail. The regulator model is "RV47NCLS"; I actually found one without the "S" on the end but was told by JennAir and Maxitrol that, for safety reasons, it must be the exact model. True? I don't know. The amazing thing is that 30" gas wall ovens are few and far between and all are VERY expensive. This oven works but the temp sometimes fluctuates.

Ouch, 14 years is nothing. It's unconscionable for them to drop parts for an oven that young. It's not even old enough to drive yet! :)

I keep major appliances at least 20-30 years. My range is 35 years old. I wasn't surprised a few years ago when I couldn't get a new oven heat shield for it, but I'd be really upset if something basic like a gas valve wasn't available for an oven less than 20 years old. I sure wouldn't buy that brand again.

Maybe I'm less risk-averse than you, and don't take this as a recommendation, but I would have grabbed that non-S part and tried it. I've done allegedly riskier things than that -- taken defective parts to a friendly used appliance store and let them match them up by appearance. That's what they admit they do when they "refurbish" the ranges and refrigerators I buy from them for my rental houses. No problems so far. But, again, that's not a recommendation and certainly not for everyone.

The bigger problem has become that my wife WANTS a new oven = case closed.

Same end result. Wire size differs. Talk to an electrician.

Manufacturers are only required to produce repair parts for 10 years.

I would explore a gas range as an option. That should be less work than the other options.

Manufacturers are only required to produce repair parts for 10 years.

And I'm not required to buy products from a manufacturer sitting on the minimum.

If they don't think their products will last longer than 10 years, why on earth would I want to buy them?

my wife WANTS a new oven = case closed.

You have that right! :)

Well, we're off the OP's original question, but I can vent on the unrepairability of older appliances. I have a 15 year old GE Monogram range. The electric oven failed, and the GE repairman said it was the "hot wire relay" (or something like that), which was unavailable. I found one on Ebay for $800, but didn't get it. I took the old one out, examined it, and discovered the contacts were pitted, so I filed them down and reinstalled it; it works like a charm. Event 2: I had a guest break one of the knobs and a replacement was also unavailable. Still working without one knob; very annoying that I can't get a new one.

Still working without one knob; very annoying that I can't get a new one.

Isn't that infuriating? Back in the early 1980s I bought a (well) used electric range. Its PO had been turning one of the elements on and off with pliers. I took one of the surviving knobs to a used appliance store and they matched it up as closely as they could. The "new" knob looked a little different from the others -- IIRC it had low, medium, and high instead of a variable scale -- but it fit, and it did the job just fine. I think I paid a buck or so for it.

I love used appliance stores. Thrift stores and ReStores, too. Yes, I'm cheap. :)

I have the same problem. I have a 30 inch Jenn Air wall oven, about 15 years old, turns off sometimes while I am cooking and cannot turn back on for several minutes. Parts are no longer made so I was told that it's unrepairable. Only have a 110 line and the electrician said it would be too costly to run a line, it's complicated. So I have been looking for 30 inch gas wall ovens and the pickings are very slim. Curious to know what you ended up with.

HU-721006933We also had a 15 year old JennAir 30" wall oven that crapped out sporadically. I feel for you; it's a major problem. We had, like you, very few options and finally bought a 30" electric oven, but we really lucked out. My house is only 15 years old and the original wiring was sufficient for a 220v oven. For whatever reason the construction electrician ran an independent 3-12 wire to the oven; more than enough to supply power to the new oven. We did have to retro-fit the cabinet because the new oven was 6" shorter than the old gas oven. Once again we lucked out by having a talented carpenter friend that did the job. The open space under the new oven is going to eventually be a drawer (curtesy of same talented carpenter friend).

So, the difference between the RV47NCLS and the RV47NCL is that the one with the S appended is NG and the other is propane. The two are identical except for a different spring. Google on the two names - with and without S for more info,

GOTOSears Parts Listto get all new for $42 + - seems to be availble.

There is a youtube video or two showing how to properly configure spring and diaphragm.

This info was not available to me when I needed it but it might help HU-721006933 I hope it does

Actually the info was available... as you said, your wife insisted on a new/replacement wall oven.

The Sears info, for example, has been available since November 9, 1016, at least!

Stax; I just did another Google search using the EXACT model number and the Sears unit didn't appear. I did find several units that were close, as is the Sears unit. My concern came from the information gleaned from the regulator manufacturer and the JennAir technician which was “an exact match is the only safe way to replace a regulator”. My wife's wanting, not insisting, a new oven was not the determining factor in our decision to replace the oven; my wife's safety was the reason we went with a new oven. Maybe HU-721006933is willing to "gamble" on a part but we weren't.

"some smart alec answer" that's funny coming from you. And for your information; I wasn't the one who "cast doubt on the safety of using a Factory Part that has two configurations"; it was the regulator manufacturer and the JennAir technicians, as well as several posters to this thread. I hope HU-721006933looks at all of the options. Personally, I'll heed the advice of professionals.

I am a professional. You're the one that doesn't know anything about configuration management.

Again, here is but one link... GOTO youtube and see techs go back and forth between LP and Propane factory configurations!!!

Sears Link STILL There!!!

"I'm sure you'll have some smart alec answer. I'll not be reading it here." LOL

Not sure why you need to launch repeated personal attacks?

Good bye!