Ikea Sektion magic corner that utilizes the most space?
Phoebe
4 years ago
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4 years agoPatricia Colwell Consulting
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoRelated Discussions
ikea sektion info on ikea site
Comments (21)I'm also wondering if the 15" deep wall cabinets won't be problematic with many over-the-cooktop microwave ovens, most of which specify maximum cabinet depth to be 13" or 14", even Whirlpool's (who makes Ikea's appliances). A deeper cabinet may interfere with the door swing at the far left that expects to extend beyond the adjacent cabinet door when opened and may infringe on the space slightly. With regular exhaust hoods that won't be a problem, but I wonder if some will look a bit ingrown surrounded by cabinets that extend 3" deeper from the wall than the hood was designed for. Many I've seen have surfaces around the sides and/or top that are designed to be flush with the surrounding cabinet fronts, which are normally 12" from the wall not 15". It appears the base cabinets will be offered with several top drawer depths. Is one of these going to be 6" tall to match many dishwasher panels on those that take cabinet panels but have exposed controls? (as well as many 30" undercounter oven control panels). Or are they trying to match an increasing number of dishwashers that have 4" tall panels rather than 6" with those shallow drawers? With either the Euro or US systems, I don't get what's so great about shallow drawers nestled within deeper drawers. Just seems you'll need to open two drawers to get at the lower section instead of one if you used separate drawers....See MoreWhat are your thoughts on Ikea Sektion base cabinets?
Comments (51)Just chiming in - sorry for the lack of updates! It's been 2 years since our (very stressful!) kitchen renovation, but we're super pleased with how everything turned out. (I know you were asking about laundry-bathroom but just gonna write a general review in case others are interested.) We love our Sektion cabinets; the drawer-in-drawer came in super handy for storing things like medication, manuals/warranties, afternoon tea supplies, and lightbulbs/tools/odds&ends. On our stove side we use that drawer-in-drawer for lesser used or back-up cooking utensils (ice cream scoop, tongs, can opener, tea infuser, etc.). I did map out all of our storage when considering what size drawers/cabinets to get, and most everything fit pretty much as planned. For doors, we went with the Ringhult White. It was the most expensive at the time and made me super nervous, but we bought it during the kitchen sale and all the IKEA showroom staff said this was the top seller and best quality door they had. It also satisfied my need for a 'white-white' door, and provided a reflective surface that would help brighten up our lower level flat. No regrets. Easy to clean, no problems with scratching, steam, moisture, etc. I actually found some doors and drawers in the As-Is section at IKEA, so ended up saving $ by returning the brand new boxes for as-is items that were in perfect condition. (Hint: Even though the blue protective plastic on the doors might be scratched, when peeled off, the foil finish was still perfect / unharmed underneath.) We did have one problem with a faulty faucet leaking into the sink cabinet right after we installed it, unfortunately. This did create a little bit of bubbling in the particleboard but since no one is ever looking into the back of our sink cabinet except for future plumbers, and functionally the cabinet has held up just fine, I don't fault IKEA for this - I think any cabinet would have had some cosmetic damage if someone was pouring a cup of water onto it every night for two weeks. Also, we built all the cabinets and drawers ourselves, and screwed in all the handles as well. Though tedious, after the first few, you get the hang of it. There are a few details to watch out for (like how to position and nail in that plastic 'fat L' piece on the back) but overall this was inconsequential to the final result. Our contractor just helped us hang the cabinets on the wall (since I kept freaking out about how they could possibly stay up under all that weight)! Here are some After photos of our kitchen (a few are focused on the floor since I was writing a (very favorable) review on the wood-look tile we used). Pardon the mess... I wish we could live a Pinterest-worthy minimalist life, but alas... :P. Hope this helps and happy to answer any other questions! _____ P.S. One thing we forgot to get (that the IKEA kitchen staff forgot to tell us about) was the metal countertop support piece: https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/70274628/?query=Countertop+support+fixture Most contractors are able to improvise if you forget about this -- we still ended up adding a sheet of plywood under the quartz -- but I think this helps 'lift' the countertop for sink installation and allows the drawers and doors to close properly. We ended up having to drive back to IKEA multiple times just to get enough of this $2.99 FIXA thing :(. My advice is to buy more and return the ones you don't use. Also, some of the hinges were annoying to install (mainly for the sink cabinet because our large sink got in the way) as were the soft-close dampers, but I had my local IKEA Kitchen department on speed dial, and also referenced many many YouTube videos. Good luck!...See MoreNew Ikea Sektion base cabinets and stone countertop install
Comments (58)"For the undermount sink we screwed two strips of wood to the side walls of the cabinet to support the sink." I strongly discourage this procedure. I constantly repair leaking double bowl stainless steel sinks that have been supported this way. Most sinks do not have a stanchion between the bowls. This means that each bowl is supported by wood on one side and steel-on-the-flat on the other. Steel-on-the-flat flexes, especially with the weight of a disposal pulling the sink down, causing leaks. Leaks cause rot, rust, insect infestation, and unsanitary gunk where you're preparing food for your family. Of course I have tons of pictures to support my claims. Wood cleats cannot provide the constant upward even pressure on sinks that a Hercules Universal Sink Harness (Braxton Bragg) or a Sink Strap (Regent Stone Products) can. You can stand in a strapped sink. You can jump up and down in a strapped sink. You can push on the steel-on-the-flat and it will not budge; it can't defy the laws of physics. And straps take up less room than cleats....See Morehelp with corner cabinet plan (Sektion/Scherrs)
Comments (76)lisa, we are actually planning to do butcher block/Waterlox counters in the kitchen itself; I was just hoping that putting laminate over the hideous tile in the pantry would be cheap and easy. No, the cabs are not tiled -- just the counter/BS. I was hoping to avoid tearing out the countertop in there because the BS is also tiled and a pain to deal with. To answer a suggestion above, we can't do a 24" cab under the overhang bc we need a 2" clearance for the door (want hinges on the R; there's a cabinet on the other side of the peninsula), and we only need it for the big dog food tin, so we don't need the extra few inches. guco, the corner range is getting the heave-ho! We are planning to put the new one on the wall in a very regular way. :) As for supporting the peninsula counter, there will be two cabinets and a DW underneath, in addition to the side panels. Isn't that regular? For the pantry, I like the idea of staining and sealing plywood, or a pre-fab laminate. I just need it to be cheap, because $. We are already at our budget, and nothing in the pantry is included... For the fridge fit issue, perhaps we will not move the peninsula closer, and I will just know that there's a likelihood that we would need to take the doors off to do repairs....See MoreHillside House
4 years agoHarry Doyle
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agojdesign_gw
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoPatricia Colwell Consulting
4 years agoHarry Doyle
4 years agojdesign_gw
4 years agoPhoebe
4 years agoUser
4 years agojupidupi
4 years agowiscokid
4 years agoA S
5 months ago
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