Door strike help!
951to312
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
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tatts
4 years ago951to312
4 years agoRelated Discussions
3 plumbers strike out - please help
Comments (9)All 3 plumbers said they checked the vent stacks. One just looked w/ a flashlight; the others sealed the stacks on the roof w/ duct tape and did a peppermint oil test, as well as did a visual inspection from both the attic and the roof. I suppose they could have missed something, but I don't know how else they could check. Because there's no odor in the enclosed water closet, the plumbers don't think that the wax ring on the toilet is the culprit. When asked, one plumber said it wouldn't hurt to run a bead of silicone caulk around the joints in the pipe beneath the garden tub. I'm going to ask dh to try that, but it probably will be next weekend before he can do it. Taping plastic sheeting to try to isolate the problem sounds like a good idea. Would it be okay to tape over the tub's overflow cover & drain as well as around the access panel? Finally, when the plumbers removed the access panel, I could see the slab foundation had an opening about a foot square where the tub drain pipe went down to join the main drain. It looked like loose grey insulation filled the hole (along with some construction debris.) I don't know if there's any sort of plastic barrier, but I sure hope so. This area has major radon problems (& we do have a radon vent inside a wall in the center of the house.) While radon is odorless, now I'm wondering about other gases seeping up through that opening....See More12V DC Keypad to feed an 16-24V AC electric door strike?
Comments (10)Sorry guys, for the week's delay. I was on a cruise and didn't have access to a computer (at least one that didn't cost a lot per-minute). For some reason I didn't see the post from 7/22 before I left, so sorry... It's an off-brand access control unit (although it did have most of the features I was looking for), and seems to be made by KAWA, model #MG236C. I can buy a 12V DC door strike, since that seems like it would simplify the setup. Voltage: DC 12V, Current: 450mA (NO function -- Normally Opened -- Fail Secure). KAWA does say about this door strike: "Please note that this electric strike can connect directly to access control unit, but we do not suggest buyer to do so because it will shorten the lifespan of your access control unit due to high current passing through the electric strike. Instead, you should connect the strike directly to an intelligent uninterruptible power supply that has NC/NO output. Make sure your UPS is "intelligent" meaning that it has NC or NO power output and can receive "door open" signal input from your access control." Would a relay work in place of this "intelligent" UPS? (I don't need a UPS functionality in this application.) So would the components be: AC-DC TRANSFORMER, feeding: ACCESS CONTROL UNIT (12V DC), feeding (via "+12V" and "PUSH/NO" terminals): RELAY (12VDC), feeding (via "COM" and "NO" terminals): DOOR STRIKE (12V DC, 450mA) Would this relay be the right one: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062481 Thanks again for your help! I'll be sure to be checking this thread reliably now that I'm back. Take care, John...See MoreReplacing glass shower door strike plate
Comments (11)I see the indents now. I wouldn't try to remove the aluminum piece from the glass. Instead, I would use a Dremel and carefully grind away the lip on the aluminum channel (on the side closest to the handle). It appears that if you can grind the aluminum next to the steel piece that the rusted bit would lift out with some gently prying or slide out the end... Then clean up the rest of the aluminum with a file so you have a straight edge. Any idea of what you're going to replace it with?...See MoreMagnetic door strikes
Comments (1)Sorry, but I think you have to buy the magnet and plate together....See Moremike_kaiser_gw
4 years agodoug_ b
4 years ago951to312
4 years ago
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