Please help! Floor plan critique
amandaslange
4 years ago
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amandaslange
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Floor plan critique, please
Comments (13)I don't agree that the current door from family room to master bedrooom is a problem as far as "sight lines" go. You actually go from the family room into a short hallway and then have to turn left to get into the bedroom. So, even if that bedroom door is left open all the time, all anyone will ever see from the family room is a short hallway. I'm much more concerned with just how difficult it might be to get large bedroom furniture aound that corner and into the masterbedroom! You might want to consider turning those three windows in the masterbedroom into patio doors just in case you need another way to get your furniture in. I also think the door interference problem in the master bath is relatively easy to solve. Unless you anticipate needing to get a wheelchair in/out of the toilet room, just use a narrower door (24" maybe) and hang it so that it swings inward toward the vanity. Or, if you want to keep a 32" wide door on the toilet room, create a room shaped like the shower stall, only slightly larger and with a longer angled wall. Then put a 32" door on the angled wall. You would then need to angle off the edge of your vanity (so that you have room to walk) and move the sink that is closest to the door a little closer to the other sink. But you have plenty of room on that vanity so moving the sinks 6 to 10 inches closer together isn't going to crowd them. BTW, I'm not sure exactly why you want a sink in the masterbath toilet area since you have two others RIGHT there - but since I've never seen anyone do this before, you must have your reasons. I left it alone. If nothing else, if someone is ever wheelchair bound you could make that room large enough for wheelchair access by taking the sink out. Most toilet rooms are WAY too tight to be used by someone in a wheelchair. IF, and only if I were planning on having a showpiece hood over the range, I would want to have it lined up with the opening between den and kitchen and with the fireplace. The range and sink themselves are hidden from the family room by the ponywall so their positions relative to the opening between the two rooms doesn't matter. But a fancy showpiece hood would stick up where it can be seen - and in that case, I would want it centered. I wonder if you could accomplish that by moving the range down close to the double oven and then moving the sink and dishwasher to breakfast room end of the island. Your dishwasher could go right up against the end of the island which would put it closer to where most of the dirty dishes will be created anyway. You do want to make sure you keep at LEAST 12" to 14" of space between the edge of your range and your double ovens tho because you want to have room to set hot dishes down. I can't tell the dimensions on your plan well enough to decide if you actually have enough room to make the switch. And, like I said, if you don't plan on a a "show-piece hood" I'd just leave things in the kitchen the way they are. Okay, now on to the problematic things I see: You have door interferance issues in the mud room area that REALLY need to be addressed. The exterior door in the mudroom swings right into the swing path of the door to the garage AND it also partially blocks the entrance to the laundry room. I was actually wondering if you really needed the exterior door to the mud room since you have another man-door that exits that side of the house just a few feet away in the garage? Then I thought that maybe you plan on having a fence beside your driveway and that the side yard would be the doggy play area. In that case, I can understand that you might want to let them in/out without having to take them outside the fence. Aesthetically, I also don't like the string of doors that are lined up from the garage to the office. It just looks "wrong" to me. And, even tho you only plan to put "seldom used" items in the pantry, it is still an inconveniently long distance away from the kitchen - regardless of whether you access the pantry via the office or the mud room. The pantry is also a fairly good hike away from the garage AND you have to open THREE doors to get there! Imagine doing that with you hands full of stuff. Because of its inconvenient location, I suspect the pantry would wind up being used as a very large closet for the relatively small office and that eventually you (or some future owner) would decide to just knock down the dividing wall between office and panty to make a space large enough to be used as another bedroom. I also can't imagine anyone EVER being willing to use that toilet in the laundry room. My folks - who had a small ranch - similarly put a toilet into their laundry room. Their laundry room had an exterior door and was their main entry/exit when doing ranch chores and access (via a short hallway) to their kitchen. They thought it would be good to have a toilet they could use when coming in muddy from doing chores. But it turned out that their laundry room which was actually smaller than yours - was just too big and served too many purposes for the toilet to seem private enough to ever use... even when the two of them were the only people there. Less than a year after moving into their new home they pulled up that toilet, tiled over the floor and put in more counter space for folding laundry. They eventually plumbed a corner of their barn and moved the toilet over there but putting it in the laundry room was a wasted expense. If you want a toilet in that area - and I can understand why you would want one easily accessible from the side yard and the garage - it really needs to be in a small room of its own for privacy's sake. The sink can be in the laundry area for more general use but the toilet NEEDS to be closeted off. The dog wash shower is a great idea (wish I had thought of that) but having it right next to the freezer seems odd. Why isn't the freezer in the pantry area? Also, the footprint (24" x 24" ???) for the freezer you show is only large enough for a TINY under-counter style freezer that will hardly have room to hold a couple of gallons of ice cream. If you really have use for a freezer that small, just stick it UNDER a counter. Don't devote a whole corner to it. Otherwise, I'd plan on the freezer's footprint being more like 32" x 32". I realize I've now totally knocked one whole side of your first floor design and I always hate it when people criticize things but don't really tell me how they would change it to correct the problems. Plus, I just LOVE playing around with floorplans so I hope you don't mind that I took a shot at making some changes to yours to address the issues I mentioned. Here it is. Major changes are highlighted in red....See Morenew floor plan critique please!
Comments (4)Narrow lots can be difficult. I strongly agree that the garage needs to be wider and bit longer. But I suspect this plan already is as wide as your lot will allow. So, if you make the garage wider, you'll have to make either the family room or the den narrower - and both are already about as narrow as they can conceivably be made. So, the only other option seems to be to rearrange the rooms - and maybe get rid of some of the excess amounts of hallway. If you can live without those front facing windows in your family room, How about moving the den to the front left corner of the house so that it has the bay windows. Make it maybe 9'deep (10.5 counting the bay) by 13 wide. Push the stairs to the left couple of feet so that they line up with the edge of the current den. This will allow you to widen the garage by a couple of feet as well. Now, put the family room in the middle of the house between the den and the dining room AND incorporate the hallway that is to the left of the staircase INTO the family room. If I'm reading your dimensions correctly, you could have a family room that is about 17' wide x 15' ft deep which would, in my opinion, be a lot more conducive for arranging furniture in than a family room that is so long and narrow. Also, in the leftover space where the den used to be (now about 7'wide x 11' deep), you could easily fit a full-sized bathroom and a nice sized closet. Then, if you ever needed a bedroom downstairs - say your 180 pound teenager broke his leg playing football - the den could be used at least temporarily for a bedroom even tho it's closet and bath would be located across the foyer. Upstairs I think your plan again devotes way too much space to hallway. The plan requires a lot of hallway in order to provide a way to reach both secondary bedrooms. But, what if (after moving the stairway over to the left (so that you can increase the size of the garage) you moved the masterbedroom and master bath to the FRONT of the house and split the 20 ft wide space at the back that is currently devoted to the master bedroom and bath into two 10' wide bedrooms? With two nice rectangular shaped secondary bedrooms side by side at the back of the house, you would only need a single section of hallway to serve them both. So you could entirely get rid of the section of hallway that runs between the laundry and the awkwardly shaped bedroom. Instead, with the staircase moved to the left, incorporate the extra couple of feet that was hallway into the laundry making it larger. With the garage 2 feet wider, a master bedroom positioned over the garage could be 12'4" wide - wider than the one you currently have. And that awkwardly shaped space that is currently a bedroom would not be nearly so awkward if turned into a masterbath space. Plus, with it back to back with the laundry, you could put install a "hamper opening" so that dirty clothing from the masterbath landed right in the laundry. Just some suggestions. Obviously more than just a few "tweaks" but I think you can do better than this plan....See MorePlease review floor plan. Tough love critiques welcome:)
Comments (6)With a tuck-under garage, how will folks get to the front door? Where will guests park? The garage is tiny. My garage is 22'x22', and we can barely fit a minivan and a Jeep in there. I would never go any smaller than that - and wish ours was at least 2 feet wider. None of your bathrooms - even the huge master bath - have any storage space. Where will you put towels, TP, extra shampoo? And windows in the upstairs bathrooms would be nice too. The laundry room looks pretty claustrophobic. I suggest blocking off those dimensions around your current washer and dryer to see if it is feasible for you. The master closet isn't very functional - corners really aren't useful for hanging. I would add a pocket door from the closet to the hallway, so you don't have to carry laundry through the bedroom and bathroom to get to the closet. Have you laid out furniture in the living room/breakfast room? I think you'll concentrate your time near the fireplace, and at the breakfast table - what do you see happening in between? I know you've posted your kitchen in the Kitchens forum, so I won't address that. Good luck!...See MoreHelp! Please critique our kitchen floor plan!
Comments (44)As I wrote above, I had to guess about clearances because you didn't provide enough measurements for me to know for sure. I assumed that if I were to draw a straight line from the front edge of the sink wall counter run straight across the kitchen table area, it would run into the great room column (assuming that's what those big square things are), which is 92" from the far right nook wall. To that I added 48", which is the aisle width I recommended in my Plan A to get a total of 140" for table and chairs. If you do a 36" aisle between the right wall and the narrow end of a 42 x 60" oval table with the table turned so it's 60" side to side (not top to bottom), you should have 44" between table and island. You actually might have more than that if the table and island are diagonally across from each other as they appear to be on my drawing (didn't know if the drawing was to scale). However, I didn't have enough information to do the math for that dimension. I missed the part where you shared that your great room is a step down from the kitchen area. For this reason, I'm recommending a 42" x 60" table instead of a 48" round table with a 12" leaf. That will give you slightly wider aisles at the top and bottom sides of the table, which will give a little bit more safety buffer by the step down, which would be good thing for all ages (my MIL stepped off a curb the wrong way and broke her foot!). IMO, extending the island edge to be even with the counter edge of the upper butler's pantry will look quite nice. I don't think it's a problem that it extends past the right wall. In fact, I like that it brings the island seating closer to the table and great room areas instead of having them smack in the middle of the working part of the kitchen. I'm not sure what you mean by "blocky," sorry. Do you mean bulky? Well, it will be a large island but the whole space is large as is the pantry and range so I think it's all in scale. I hope I made sense and that I helped you through this process. Oh, you asked ages ago about removing the wall around the lower butler's pantry area. If you do corbels on the upper butler's pantry, I think it would look very nice if you removed the wall around the lower butler's pantry and added corbels to that cab as well....See Morebpath
4 years agoMark Bischak, Architect
4 years agobpath
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agobpath
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoMark Bischak, Architect
4 years agoMark Bischak, Architect
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4 years agoCooder Smith
4 years agoMark Bischak, Architect
4 years agoLindsey_CA
4 years agoMark Bischak, Architect
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4 years ago3pinktrees
4 years agoMark Bischak, Architect
4 years agoLindsey_CA
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4 years agoMark Bischak, Architect
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoamandaslange
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