How to Refinish Hundred year old porcelain sink
Faith Awkerman
4 years ago
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doug_ b
4 years agoUser
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Clawfoot tub refinishing - synthetic porcelain vs. thermo-glaze?
Comments (4)Hi there. I ended up using Ugly Tub?, Inc. for my interior tub reglazing, uglytub.net. They did a really beautiful job. I take baths almost daily, and it has held up very nicely over the last three years. Honestly, it looks exactly the same as the day it was done. You can see the final result in my flickr photostream at the link in my original post. I didn't use the original faucet, and needed to retrofit the existing holes to fit the new overflow. They used bondo to fill in the old holes from the original faucet, and then glazed over it. It is seemless - you can not tell where the original faucet was. The technician also skimmed bondo over the side "lip" edge of the tub, which had quite a few nicks and dings in it from 100 years of use. With the glaze over it, it looks and feels brand new. I am extremely pleased with the end result. There is nothing quite like sinking into a deep, clawfoot tub. Good luck with your tub renovation!...See Morerefinishing old porcelain bathtub
Comments (5)Sorry mountainbasketmaker, this thread is several months old now and you may have moved on! We have an old cast iron bathtub that is the same vintage as yours. The white finish had seen better days when we bought the house, and I had it refinished 12 years ago. The biggest drawback is that you are told you can no longer use a bath mat with suction cups, and must find one with holes in it. The only one I ever found that fit the bill just wasn't secure enough to make the tub safe. Like everything else, the process has improved over time. They now can apply some kind of pebble finish before the spray coats, which eliminates bath mats altogether. I have no experience with it personally, but it is in use in several big hotel chains, and satisfies their liability concerns. The new surface is not as resiliant as the original. The longest warranty currently offered in our area is 10 years. Hope this helps!...See MoreRefinishing old hardware...
Comments (15)Now how about de-gunking old porcelain doorknobs without breaking or crazing the porcelain or detaching it from the black iron stem? (It seems to be held together with some type of adhesive.) Various POs did not bother taking off the door hardware before painting and so the knobs are splodged here and there with paint of various colors, topped with a fine spray of cream paint (some people should not be allowed to get anywhere near paint sprayers - most recent PO sprayed the walls and moldings all the same color, with plenty of overspray onto windowpanes, ceiling, and other equally irritating areas). Regular paint thinner and Goof Off - not together! - didn't take off any paint but the porcelain's intact areas looked dull afterward. Nursekathleen, if your doors take skeleton keys, most locksmiths carry them. Hardware stores sometimes have one kind (at the key-cutting area, on a hanging card) that may or may not fit. Or if the more readily available keys do not fit your locks, you could pop one of the lock units out of the door (much easier than it sounds) and visit an architectural salvage company. In my house one key fits all the old interior motise locks. :-) Very low priority for spending money on but eventually it would be fun to have a key for each door - I remember always having a key to each room on top of the door casing...See MoreCurrent Products Similar to the old Formby's Refinishing Fluid?
Comments (15)The terminology gets a bit sloppy and is certainly not helped by centuries of finish chemistry and manufacturer's labels. When most people think of "varnish" they are referring to a product produced by heating an oil with a resin to create a new substance. This substance is then thinned to create a brushing or wiping consistency. So: heat Resin + Oil ------> Varnish Varnish + some thinner ---> brushing varnish Varnish + more thinner ---> wiping varnish 1 part varnish + 2 parts (additional) oil + 6 parts thinner --> Danish oil (more or less, depending upon mfr formula) teak oil, antique oil, etc. The common oils are : Linseed, soy, and tung. The common resins are: urethane, alkyd, and phenolic, or some combination. Arcane formulas for violin varnish, etc., would use natural resins, but we're unlikely to see those in a can anywhere. The thinner is usually a petroleum distillate such as mineral spirits. Some people call anything that dries by evaporation a "lacquer." So that would include shellac (sometimes labelled padding lacquers) and some even stretch it to include acrylic finishes (the so-called water borne lacquers, that cure only partially by evaporation). But when most people think lacquer, they think of nitrocellulose lacquers, or perhaps CAB lacquers. It's a shame there is such confusion. It's one of the things that makes finishing more complex (and hated) than it really needs to be....See MoreDavidR
4 years agoeam44
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4 years agoscottie mom
4 years agoFaith Awkerman
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4 years agoMary Glickman
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4 years agoIzzy Mn
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoci_lantro
4 years agoJoseph Corlett, LLC
4 years agoUser
4 years agoIzzy Mn
4 years ago
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