Is it possible for you to put in a pocket door? Doing that will increase your floor space tremendously. We just had our plumbing done and we are in the St. Louis area, so I'm not sure how your prices will compare. Our toilet basically turned to another wall and moved over about 1.5 ft. Do you have an unfinished basement under this area? Thankfully we did, so it was easy access. The plumber had to notch heavily a joist to accommodate the toilet moving, so now an engineer has constructed a plan for support in the basement because of the notching. The shower is at the opposite end from where it was and the vanity is also about 6 ft away. Considering they didn't have to go back to the main stack to get proper slope for the plumbing, etc., our plumbing & electrical only cost us $2,600. But, now we have the added cost of the support in the basement as well.

What is brand, size, and model of furnace? You might post compete model number. I would get a good brand-no low end model-13 SEER with matching evap coil. No higher than 75 decibel. New and properly sized lineset. Should be installed to code. A new disconnect at the location. I prefer a poured concrete pad rather than a prefab or plastic model. Location should be close to furnace for best and easy connection. Physical size of condenser really depends on tonnage size of condenser. Guessing 3-3 1/2 tons depending on summer climate and your home's insulation qualities. While you can probably get any brand, I would lean to the same brand as furnace. Just a few ideas. IMO

Given that your are under the IRC the solution to your problem is fairly easy. in your original post you stated that you want to move your sink about 15" to one side of where the existing sink is. You didn't state whether you were moving to the right or the left, but then that really doesn't matter anyway, except for the sake of illustration allow me to say we are moving to the right. If you are in fact moving to the left the procedure will be the same but in the opposite direction. We can use the simple triangle formula which states that the length of the hypotenuse of a triangle is equal to the square root of Side A squared plus side B squared. We are moving 15" horizontal along the wall from the existing fixture arm, so let us say "Side A" =15" and the center of the drain is approximately 12" forward from the wall so let us say "Side B"=12". L= the square root of (A squared + B squared) Where A = 15" and B= 12" L = the square root of (15 x 15 + 12 x 12) L= the square root of 225 + 144 L= the square root of 369 L=19.2" If we were certain that there is a vent behind the wall in the manner that i showed in the previous illustration this short length would be of no consequence, however since we don't know whether that vent exists we must then presume that the fixture arm in the wall may turn horizontal and run a short distance to the vent stack. Understanding that the codes are very specific in regards to the maximum length of the fixture arm from the trap weir to the vent we must then assume that an additional 19" could extend us beyond the allowable limit. Fortunately you are under the IRC, which allows us to use an AAV and no one will ever fault your for having additional venting so we may proceed without opening the wall. You stated that the existing fixture arm exits the wall, then turns down and back up. That in itself is a code violation for two reasons. 1. dropping down then back up creates a trap and the codes prohibit have two successive traps in series. 2. There must be an even 1/4" per foot downward slope from the trap weir to the vent. I would begin by cutting the existing fixture arm about 1-1/2" from the wall then attach the discharge end of a Wye on the fixture arm with the side opening of the Wye pointing in the direction of your new trap location. One the end of the Wye I would install a female thread adapter and a cleanout cap. i would then install a 1/16 street bend in the side opening of the Wye. (NOTE- A 1/16th street bend is a 22.5 degree sanitary elbow that has a female hub on one end and a male spigot on the other end.) Next cut about a 2" or 3" section of sched.40 PVC and insert one end into the hub on the 1/16th street bend. Position this Wye with the side opening pointing up and install a 18th street bend in the side opening of the second Wye.(The side opening of a Wye comes off at 45deg. adding the 1/8th street bend will then complete the 90deg upward turn. (Note-you must use a wye & 1/8 bend here because the code prohibits a Tee on a horizontal line.) Cut another 2" length of sched.40 PVC and insert it in the top of the 1/8th bend, then install a female thread adapter on the top end of that PVC nipple. You can now screw an AAV into that thread adapter. NOTE-With the Wye, 1/8th bend, PVC nipple and the thread adapter you should easily have the required 4" from the top of the fixture arm to the base of the AAV.) Now connect your trap to the sink tailpiece and direct the tailpiece of the trap towards your new fixture arm. You can then compute the final length from the opening of the second Wye to the position where your new Trap adapter will be. (When all is said and done, you may need to cut a bit off the end of the trap tailpiece. that is ok)

Your best bet is call a plumbing company and electrician in your area for an estimate. There are too many variables for someone to be able to tell you here. Where would you be moving the electrical and plumbing too? Do you have access from below such as a basement or above such as an attic. Which part of the country - does it get really cold in your area is the wall you want to move it to an exterior wall. Also being that the door opens onto that wall you don't want a door handle etc. to be hitting a glass wall.