LOL. I have a sixteen year old schnauzer male who 'marks' occasionally. I can't tell you how many floor renovations this has cost us, not to mention an antique china closet he has removed the veneer from. It works better than paint thinner. I'll miss him when he goes, pee and all. I can't wrap my mind around solid metal stairs (have seen the open ones), but you know, I think I wouldn't mind it at all. It's one of those things sometimes you're better off highlighting than trying to hide. I am thinking jet black lacquer type enamel. Even old wooden farmhouse stairs have been featured on home decorating magazines done this way with stencil work done on the risers. If you have baseboard trim, don't paint it black. You can buy some decently attractive grit or rubber treads to match and secure with adhesive. Much safer than tred rugs, and the dog won't be so interested since they're not fabric.

We have two quotes so far. Two are frameless to ceiling glass options with one continuous rail on one side only, rail in steel. Prices came in at $9,200 and 10,500. We are still waiting in a quote for a framed in glass option with powder coated aluminum. Not that it matters as it’s just a line item for now but $6700 has been budgeted for it. So far builder is bang on with his railing quotes as the exterior railings came in at slightly under budget. So we know the high end but not the lower for sure yet. Should get the concrete numbers early this week.

Hi, Johnny-- For your currently maroon room, I'd split it up in a few ways: Base, window and door trim to new white in updated palette (semigloss) Walls to your new grey in updated palette Keep overhead beams in current tone, but paint out the v-groove between beams in your new white (flat) Should add light to the space, highlight the roof architecture, and set off your updated flooring in there. One thing I noticed from your fireplace photo is that your wainscot paneling dies into one side of the fireplace and doesn't run that whole wall. That seems an odd place to end the run, so I'd consider having it run at least into the next corner or wrap that room, as well. Let us know how it all turns out - and keep on!

You should also check the local code if your railing doesn't need a return to a wall. R311.7.8.4 Continuity Handrails shall be continuous for the full length of the flight, from a point directly above the top riser of the flight to a point directly above the lowest riser of the flight. Handrail ends shall be returned or shall terminate in newel posts or safety terminals. Exceptions: Handrail continuity shall be permitted to be interrupted by a newel post at a turn in a flight with winders, at a landing, or over the lowest tread. A volute, turnout or starting easing shall be allowed to terminate over the lowest tread.