Bad News: Nutria
6 years ago
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Comments (1)What a funny story CI. You might try picking up a few pullets from a feed store this spring or at a poultry swap or auction. The blue/green eggs are the coolest thing! I haven't got any pink layers but can only imagine the thrill. I do have one that lays a deep dark brownish pink though. I just love the different colors. -Sheila...See MoreGood news,bad news
Comments (21)actually, john, they have dammed up your creek- but way down behind me, after where it passes your house. and i know it's beavers because our scientist/naturalist neighbor told us about them to begin with when we got to know him. it was part of the reason he bought his house. he told us when it got too bad the town did trap a few of them and relocated them (i think that's what he said). i believe there's another dam up further between us towards you, because there's a part of the sewage easement we used to walk that is flooded to the point of being a pond. i would imagine they'll have to get rid of that one since they have to be able to service the line, and that's hard to do when it's under water. not to mention there are now houses VERY close to there- the new develop on thompson rd. i don't think the city minds the ones from our place down towards the lake since they are just wetland and not flooding sewer easement. the beaver i saw behind the houses across the street most definitely had the big flat tail and smacked it as warning on the surface before he disappeared. i was surpsied at how big he was- i wouldn't want to get too close! i know what muskrats look like, but i've only seen nutria in pix. the muskrats i saw were up north, and i don't think there are nutria there. the nutria are big, and their faces look similar, so i bet they are easily confused with beavers. i wouldn't think the muskrats would be able to do the kind of beaver chewing damage on big trees because of their size. not sure what muskrats eat, come to think of it. do nutria eat/cut down trees too? and i bet those beaver kits are adorable! i can't even imagine! are they all tail, teeth & eyes? what the heck do you feed them once they are weaned? i'll bet a baby platypus is almost as weird looking! :) tam...See Morenew wildflower bed bad, bad
Comments (7)I recommend the smothering/lasagne method too. I've done this before on areas of traditional lawn that I wanted to convert to native wildflower patches, and it works well. Then you could either direct-sow native wildflower seeds, or winter-sow the native seeds in containers and transplant them into your wildflower area (see post from Sue/Chemocurl above). Winter-sowing in containers helps prevent the seeds from being eaten or washed away over the fall and winter. I just started winter-sowing native seeds in containers & transplanting this past year and have been amazed how well it's worked so far. Seedlings are all growing nicely. Just keep in mind you may not get much flowering the first year from native perennials grown from seed. Also, if you winter-sow in containers, you will have to dig holes for the transplanted seedlings. Not always easy on the back or the knees... Whether you direct-sow or winter-sow in containers, those "wildflower mixes" from the bigger stores are notorious for containing non-native wildflower and non-native grass seeds. You might want to try purchasing the seeds of the native wildflowers you would like in individual packets. Some native wildflower seeds need a period of cold, moist stratification to germinate, so they are best direct-sown in the fall, or winter-sown in containers. Some will germinate best when sowed in the spring. Most native seed companies will tell you the best time of year to sow each kind of seed. I got my native seeds from Prairie Moon Nursery, and Bowman's Hill Wildflower Preserve in PA. North Carolina State University has info on growing natives on their website: http://www.ncsu.edu/goingnative/index.html If you're not sure what kind of seeds to get, check out the information sheets (see link below) from N.C. State University that you can download. These sheets list N.C. native plants and wildflowers and what kind of growing conditions they need. Good luck! Here is a link that might be useful: NC State University: Going Native...See MoreBroke Ground today."Bad News. Bad Soil" Need Piers?!
Comments (11)Does seem strange to me that you're the only lot with issues in a subdivision...especially based on the size of subdivision lots I'm used to (usually 1 - 3 acres). I know I had a similar issue when it was time to build. Our initial excavation showed 100% silt, which you can't build on. They wanted piles (similar to piers) drilled, but the large stones in the area drove the cost up hugely because we couldn't use a standard piling company (that works in clay soils around here). Our engineer offered us a number of options: He said we could do piles, OR we could do a slab-on-grade (no basement), or even to over-excavate the land down to a more suitable soil type and then backfill with granular material. For us, the backfilling would have been the best option since there's a lot of gravel pits in the area and we could hopefully pay someone to crush the boulders we pulled out during the excavation. Keep in mind, we took the soil sample in OURSELVES to get tested by the lab, not trusting what contractors and people who can reap the financial benefits might say. That said, our Building Inspector argued PROFUSELY that there was no silt in our area. Not a lick of silt he assured us, not on our neighbours' place 100' away, not up the hill, nowhere in the municipality. :P In the end, the soil test came back 30% silt at the house-site, and 100% silt in our back field. PHEW. We also discovered that we hit bedrock at 6' of excavation depth. Meaning we built directly on bedrock, silt be damned. (and I can assure you the neighbours have silt too...one has a slab-on-grade, the other is down-hill from us with a walk-out basement sitting on bedrock. The thing was, our building inspector was new, the old logs were crappy and it's not that common of a soil around here). So in part, we really lucked out, but there were a number of options we could have taken to alleviate the problem. I would consider a proper soil sample, and taking it to the lab yourself. The cost is cheap and worth it. Ask your engineer for ideas on what can be done, even things like wider footings. As for financing, I can understand money being tight. I went over budget, and no, didn't have this huge 20% contingency either. Some of these folks would say I shouldn't have built, but I couldn't afford to buy a home, I couldn't keep living where I was, and I built the least home I could, managing the finances carefully and cutting things out where I needed to, for later. In the end, I have a beautiful home that I can afford, for FAR less than I could have bought a much older home for. Consider doing more of the the labor yourself to save money; I ended up digging my own foundation, shoveled all the pea gravel for the basement floor, did the basement floor myself, ICFs myself, installed all the carpet, tile, hardwood, painted, plumbed, HVAC, landscaped, pulled my own electrical permit and completed it, shingled, hung doors, hung baseboards (well, still doing those a year later lol), insulated, vapor barriered, put in all the small windows, hung all the cabinetry, designed my own kitchen so I could pay less for cabinets... What I'm saying, is if you don't want to scale back on the size of the house or the finishings anymore, but need the $25k to cover the piers, maybe you guys can do a bit more work to cover the costs?? Some of that stuff isn't so hard and costs a FORTUNE! Or downgrade stuff that's easy to replace later on, like lighting or countertops :) Heck, I'm not even 30 and between me and my 60 year old parents and the odd begged help from some friends, built a 1400 sq. ft. house in 8 months, for 50% of the cost had I GC'd it. You can do this. If you want it, you'll make it work....See More- 6 years ago
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