rhiozo: Interesting to hear that you are familiar with a similar clock. As you search for its identification, bear in mind that the Jared Arnold clock is easlily confused with another clock made by Birge, Peck & Co. The cases are almost identical, but the face and wheel counts differ. The Birge & Peck company was in Bristol, Connecticut whereas Jared Arnold was in Amber, NY. On telling feature of the Jared Arnold clock is its face. There are a few other face designs that are similar, but the corner decorations of the J. Arnold clock are unique. Unfortuantely, the photo I posted of my clock has artifacts showing on the face that are not there. The orange smear and other smears are reflections from other sources in the room and are not actually on the face. The lighting was terrible and I had to choose a position to minimize a big glare on the glass. I had thought that the movement may have been purchased from Bristol because similar movements were available from that factory. However, I have a book that believes that Jared Arnold made his own movements based on the wheel counts (no. of teeth on each gear and pinion). The wheel count differs from the Bristol movement. This clock is rare because not many were made. The clock was manufactured by Arnold and his partner and the firm did not last very long. Arnold with Phillip Smith began making clocks and had established a factory by 1833. Arnold had purchased a saw mill and water priviledges on Otisco creek in May, 1833. They sold the factory in 1834 and Smith moved to Marcellus to continue his trade.

If it's low voltage I'm sure the OP would have mentioned it in order to avoid wasting our time. Certainly a power cord can be spliced but the question was about safety. If you want a better reference than internet wisdom you can rely on the NEC. Under the National Electrical Code, you cannot repair (splice) a power cord unless it is a "hard service" (600v.) or "junior hard service" (300v.) type (i.e., S, SO*, SE*, SJ*, ST*). You may not repair the following types: portable power cables (types G*, P*, W), heater cord (H*), vacuum cord (SV*), dryer and range cords (SRD*), or lamp cords (C, SP*). These unapproved types must be replaced from end to end if they are damaged. The * means any other letters or numbers that appear in the type label on your cord after the prefix (e.g., SP* includes SPT-2W, SPT, SP-1, SPE). If your house is damaged by fire (and you survive) you will want to be sure there is no evidence that it started at an illegal cord splice. When my next door neighbor's house burned, the arson squad tried to blame the faulty cord of an electric pencil sharpener and implied that it was intentional. Later they found that it was due to a temporary tap at the electric panel by a remodeling contractor.

I've used the dial spin to double-verify that I've shut off and pulled all plugs before I leave winter home for summer up north...they swapped meter during the summer, and in the months since they did, I've had two bills with 3KWH usage and two with zero, and the folks who look after house swear that nothing is on, so when I get back, I wanted to see if I could figure out where the "leakage" was occuring...can digital meters creap by themselves? And at my summer place, I have multiple rental cottages on one meter, and there I've used dial spin on occasion to see if something appears amiss, especially when no one is home and meter spinning more than normal, so it's not just one plug-in thing...most of what one can plug in typically has wattage listed on it somewhere...

I purchased all Samsung kitchen appliances only to find my over the range microwave wouldn't fit, because it did not have a zero clearance door. I reordered a Frigidaire microwave. The microwave display is very bright white. Not only does the brightness of the display bother me, but the fact that it is a different color than the blue display on the Samsung range below it. So much so, that I'm looking in to the possibility of changing the light bulb or lense cover. I'm not sure if it's possible.. P.S I don't have the backsplash in yet, so don't judge me for my temporary fix to cover the ugly damaged backsplash.