Dark grout ruined white ceramic subway tile backsplash
kwilmers
4 years ago
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Comments (31)
kwilmers
4 years agokwilmers
4 years agoRelated Discussions
backsplash: subway vs mosiac, glass vs ceramic vs m.o.p.
Comments (53)I think you are asking me? If not....sorry... I will take the tile up cabinet height around my window as there are cabinets on both sides.....I am leaving the rest of the window without trim as I have 2 & 7/8" from cabinet to edge of window...and thought I would put a small trim around it...but then when they put the light rail up there is only 1 & 7/8"..so think it's too small for trim.....What is everyone's opinion? Just found out today...that the guys that was going to do the tile (looks like they work as a team) won't be able to do it until the one that is having knee surgery is able to work ...which could be weeks!! He came today to get paid for all the other work he did...and I asked him if his partner would go ahead and put the tile up.....He is suppose to let me know... Oh well I've waited this long....and really not long at all...so a few more weeks is OK....just anxious to see the kitchen completely finished...now that I finally have the Subway tile sitting in boxes waiting to be installed....See MoreVote! Marble or white tile/dark grout backsplash? (pic heavy)
Comments (57)Now focusing on either completely white marble or pale marble body color with pale streaking. Any suggestions? (All my samples of marble have medium to dark toned streaks.) One idea is pillowed thassos like Mindimoo, but I dont have a picture. Is it my imagination or did my thread about choosing the finish of the Modernaire hood crown disappear?...See MorePlease HELP! Maple Cabinets & White Subway Tile Backsplash
Comments (8)nik, Welcome! A couple of thoughts: if you love absolute black but are worried about maintenance, look at a leathered finish. It is much more forgiving than the polished finish to smudges, etc. There might be a reason you aren't seeing a lot of pictures with your color cabs and white tile - you might be right and it might be too bright. Try to get some sample tiles and bring them home and tape them to the wall to get an idea. You might find the answer really fast! Check the Finished Kitchen blog and Backsplash slideshow (link to FKB below, backsplash slideshow at FKB) for more pics to see if anyone else has done it - there are lots of successful rule breakers here! Maybe consider an off-white subway. Again checking a sample in your kitchen with your cabs and counter will help. If you both love the glass mosaic you might be able to incorporate it in a small area - like behind the backsplash or as an accent with 2 or 3 rows of mosaic between rows of subway - there are some examples in the finished backsplashes. Finally, congrats on making it this far! Here is a link that might be useful: Finished Kitchens...See MoreMinum grout width for wall ceramic tile (backsplash)
Comments (4)Thanks, it sounds like I need "real" grout lines. Still, the 4"x4" (I've used in a bathroom, including stand alone shower and a tub) have built in spacers that provide, I estimate, no more than 1/16" space between tiles. The work I've done with these is now about 20 years old and holding up well. The subject brick shape however doesn't seem to have any space other than the bevel, which does go down to the unglazed edge of the tile. I would in any case plan on a 1/8" gap at the counter-top which is filled with caulk. I notice there is a Jacks (not sure it isn't Jax) type spacer that looks to my mind's eye to be better than the older flat cross spacer. Any advice on the type of spacer? On a related item, if I cut (wet saw) or break, ceramic scribe and brake, a tile and the edge will be exposed, is it possible to use a polishing stone or other tile cutting tool to smooth that edge, round it off a bit? I know when I hit an interface, including a corner I will use a caulk to close the run...that has worked well in corners where I have the cut edge of the "top" tile facing away from the line-of-sight, making the cut edge almost impossible to see. I'll have to check to see what I did in the bathroom job many years ago when I came to a bull-nose finished edge. I'll guess there must be some cut/broken edges there, I didn't have a wet saw when I did that job. Just in case one cares to advise, my new counter top is a solid man-made material. Do I have to carefully protect it from any drips of a mounting mastic? Would it be safer to use a thin-set as regards any "splats" hitting the new counter-top? I believe most mastic material is petroleum based, I will guess if there is a latex mastic it may be safer to use over the new counter top. The old bathroom tile job I referred to I think I used a combination premixed mastic/grout...hey, it is still holding both the grout and tiles. That job was above fiberglass tub and shower pan, I didn't see any damage from drips on that job....See Morekwilmers
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