bathroom tile help...I’m exhausted from looking!
5 years ago
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- 5 years agolast modified: 5 years ago
- 5 years ago
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Adding Fantech inline exhaust system to existing bathroom
Comments (7)I will wholeheartedly agree with southernroots that 50CFM is not sufficient for your bathroom, but the 200cfm that he suggests is far too much. The first step of the project is to determine exactly what size of fans you need. Properly, the bathroom exhaust fans should produce 4 complete air exchanges per hour so the question then becomes how many cubic feet is four exchanges per hour? The main part of the bathroom is 10'x 12' which is 120sq.ft. Now assuming an 8' ceiling we get 120sq.ft x 8' vertical equals 960cu.ft in the room and we desire four complete exchanges per hour so we need to move 960cu.ft x 4 = 3840cu.ft per hour. We then divide 3840cu.ft/hr by 60min/hr and we get 64cu.ft/min. The shower is 4' x 5' so it is 20sq.ft and again assuming an 8ft ceiling we get 20sq.ft x 8' = 160cu.ft in the room. Four air exchanges per hour would then be 160cu.ft x 4 = 640cu.ft/hr. Now dividing 640cu.ft/hr by 60min.hr = 10cfm. For peak efficiency I would put a separate light/fan unit in each room sized to the nearest nominal trade size which is equal too or greater than the theoretical size from the computations. By example, you already know that 50cfm is not sufficient, but I doubt if you will find a 64cfm fan. The solution would be to then select a 75cm fan. Actually the slight increase would work to your advantage because it allows for line resistance of the ductwork, but to just arbitrarily install a 100cuft fan would result in way too much air flow, and keep in mind that you are paying to operate your HVAC system to condition all that excess air. Now, while you can run the duct up and out through the roof, I would prefer to run it horizontal to the nearest external wall and install a wall vent to the outside. That not only reduces the line friction loss in the duct work, it totally eliminates the possibiity of a roof leak where the line passes through the roof. Taking this to the next level, keep in mind that you are venting warm moisture laden air and as it passes through the ductwork it will cool and condensate moisture in the duct. For my house, I made the ducts with PVC pipe and installed them horizontal with a 1/4" per foot downward pitch to the wall outlet. In that manner I do not have to worry about metal ducting rusting or water pooling between the folds of flex duct....See MorePlease help...I'm pulling my hair out over these bathrooms
Comments (21)for some reason, i stopped getting emails about the follow-ups. thank you so much for the ideas everyone. gmp3- i didn't even think about gray with green!! i love that print. i have dorian gray in the living room and hall so it would def be easier to continue the gray into the bathroom. would it be too dark? there is no window. I also have revere pewter in another bedroom so I can use the left over. I was planning on using revere pewter in the yellow bathroom. we decided on this tile for the kitchen and hall: 'canyon expresso' from lowes, would this work as well? I'd love to be able to use all the stuff we already have as it would really help us on the cost and labor. i love that vanity, and i can't find it. please send me a link. thanks again....See MoreNeed bathroom exhaust fan for tight installation
Comments (1)Is there an existing fan you're replacing? If a new install, you need to connect it to ducting that leads to outdoors, not just into the attic. An alternative with more size flexibility would be to put in a small HVAC grill that runs through the ceiling drywall, to which you snugly connect flex duct on the back side, that then runs to an inline fan (like what Fantech makes) mounted in the attic. Then connect flex duct to the fan's output to run to where the air exits the attic and you're done. Remember to include a damper in the line. Search for "Valterra Heating and A/C vent register" to see an example. Or get an HVAC ceiling grill with a boot behind it to mount. With a Fantech inline fan, you'll not hear much fan noise but a small grill and high air flow will produce air flow noise. Maybe a long and narrow one with a larger surface area would work? Can you mount an exhaust fan on an exterior wall?...See MoreBathroom from hell - Two year old bathroom tile flexing
Comments (30)@Amir Ali - I just wanted to post a comment in order to: 1. Let you know that I completely understand what you are going through right now. I have TWO FAILING slate floors that are part of current bathroom renovations. The master bathroom floor had not been grouted due to delays on his part. I discovered that some of the tiles were COMPLETELY LOOSE - and some sounded like they were only partially bonded to the floor. This floor is failing - and it has BARELY been walked on because the bathroom renovation basically stopped due to issues - bathroom isn’t usable so the only use has been when I’ve gone in there to take photos or measure something = maybe some tiles had been walked on four or five times before I started discovering the loose tiles. It is obvious that the tiles failed to bond to the floor - the mortar must have skinned over or something. I am NOT reinstalling the loose tiles. IMPORTANT - my former contractor does not fit the definition of what people here on Houzz love to refer to as a “hack” (at least not the actual business that I hired to do the work) - however, his employee clearly did not know what he was doing (or just didn’t care) - and that makes the owner of the business liable for this work. The business has hundreds of Google ratings (4.9/5), owner is a member of TCNA, I had several reviews from people I know (and trust), and I DID NOT JUST TAKE THE LOWEST BID - I am NOT a CHEAPSKATE. I am so tired of people AUTOMATICALLY blaming the homeowner when they have ZERO basis to do so. Making assumptions and basically telling homeowners that they are IDIOTS and CHEAP really makes me upset. Okay, I’m finished with my rant! 😂 The ”fix” is this: The ENTIRE floor is being torn apart. Not only is the tile being removed, the cbu will be taken out. New contractor assumes that he will also find that former contractor failed to add the required second layer of plywood in order to make sure that the substrate was prepared correctly in order to have a natural stone floor installed. Based upon the above issues, I investigated the slate floor that was installed in one of the other bathrooms back in April. I noticed a few grout issues - and as I went around knocking on each tile, the sound on many tiles indicates tiles that are only partially bonded. This is what the floor looks like from a standing position: And this is what it looks like when I realized that I needed to inspect it after the failure in other bathroom: I have cracks and broken spots of grout in many places. I also have some grout which is stuck on my tile because the contractor failed to seal the tile (as required) prior to grouting (I found this out later - I was in the hospital while this floor was being installed) and made promises over and over to come remedy the issue. So, this floor will also be ”fixed” in the same manner as the first one - I’m just waiting to have it ripped out until after the other bathroom is completely finished. 2. I also wanted to let you know that regardless of whether (i) you have a written contract, and (ii) that contracts specifically provides (or fails to provide) a five year (or however long) warranty period, you still have recourse against the contractor who installed your tile. Most states (probably all but I haven’t done research on this issue in every state) have enacted statutes that protect homeowners for this type of issue. In my jurisdiction, there are specific statutes that relate to home renovation projects - these statues require (among other things) that all work must be done in a good and workmanlike manner. Following industry standards, as well as manufacturer’s specifications, are part of this requirement. Also, the consumer protection act in my state also protects homeowners against contractors who perform shoddy work. I am 99% positive that your state will have some similar statutes. If you want to share your jurisdiction, I am happy to take a quick look in order to point you in the right direction. MANY jurisdictions require the homeowner to provide the contractor with notice and a right of remediation. Unless you follow the requirements of your particular statutes, you won’t be able to bring an action against your contractor to recover damages. FYI - my former contractor has chosen to ignore the notice I provided, so I then was free to hire another contractor to do the remediation work. My former contractor will owe me the money I have to spend to correct his failure to properly install my tile (which will greatly exceed what I paid him - removing tile + cbu + buying new material (including nice slate tile - because I didn’t purchase cheap slate tile for the the project initially). I am sorry that you’re going through this because it is NOT fun. I decided to consider myself “lucky” because he hadn’t yet installed this tile on my laundry floor! Hopefully, you won’t have water damage that will require even more remedial work in order to fix it....See MoreRelated Professionals
Knoxville Kitchen & Bathroom Designers · Minnetonka Mills Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Glenn Heights Kitchen & Bathroom Remodelers · Napa Glass & Shower Door Dealers · Rancho Santa Margarita Window Treatments · Sacramento Window Treatments · Charleston Furniture & Accessories · Clark Furniture & Accessories · Mahwah Furniture & Accessories · Miami Beach Furniture & Accessories · Sterling General Contractors · Taylors Architects & Building Designers · Salisbury Home Builders · Easley General Contractors · Elgin General Contractors- 5 years ago
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- 5 years agolast modified: 5 years agoKim thanked Dragonfly Tile & Stone Works, Inc.
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