Cost of floor tile with radiant heat.
picturebug
4 years ago
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Comments (9)
millworkman
4 years agopicturebug
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoRelated Discussions
tile floor over Ditra + radiant heat...OSB ok?
Comments (1)Shouldn't be a problem....See MoreTile prep - concrete floor with radiant heat
Comments (7)By honoring the expansion joints, I mean that those joints ned to have the Ditra cut through, and the tile either laid out to fall with a grout joint there, or cut the tile to those joints and caulk them. Those joints are in the concrete to allow for movement, and the tile's not going to stop that movement. So you need to have a joint all the way through, and then caulk that joint. What I mean by soft joints is that the joints in the concrete may not be every 15 feet, and you need to have a caulk joint in the tile every 15 feet to allow for expansion and contraction of the floor. So if the expansion joints in the concrete are, say, 18 feet apart, you'd want to put a caulk joint in the tile at about 9 feet. Now before you get upset that you're going to see these glommy joints throughout the floor, every grout manufacturer makes caulking in the very same colors as their grouts. They even come in a sanded an unsamded version to match the grout more closely. You don't even hardly notice them. Matter of fact, I just saw a customer whose 800 foot floor I did about a year ago, and that was her main concern-- that she'd see those joints sticking out like a sore thumb. She said she never even sees them until she washes her floor, and then of course the grout joints darken up until they dry, while the caulk joints stay the same. Otherwise, she said, she'd never even see them....See MoreLuxury vinyl to put over tile (with radiant floor heat)
Comments (16)OK...if you REALLY want to go over this, you are about to spend more money that it would cost to remove the tile: #1: Flooring professional will THOROUGHLY clean the tile (with big machine and strong detergents); and allow to dry (1 day or more if you include the dry time) #2: Flooring professional will rough up the tile (big sanding machine - tapping off all cupboards, air vents, walls, etc) - clean up (shop vac) will take another or two #3: Cement topping (like feather compound) will be added to the floor to ensure you achieve "flat and level" (grout lines are NOT flat; tiles/stone are NEVER flat nor level); should take a few days including cure times #4: Light sanding to knock down any pumps; vacuum once again #5: Begin installing vinyl planks #6: Homeowner will add appropriate light-blocking products on windows that allow direct sunlight onto the floor (you are welcome to put down an indoor/outdoor thermometer in the sunny patch to record TOP temps in summer. Most vinyls HATE heat above 85F. That is tough combat with windows that are older than 10 years. The Korean-designed vinyl products can reach much higher temps (EZ Lay or Drop N Done) and are specifically designed for in-floor radiant heat. Of course their price tag reflects their ability...but it's what is needed in this situation. Which type of in-floor radiant heat do you have? Electric (wires), hydronic (water/gel/oil) of forced air? Do you have a primary heat source or is the radiant heat the ONLY source of heat in your home?...See MoreTile or engineered wood for flooring with radiant heating?
Comments (3)Which type of radiant are you looking at? With a new build I would hope you are looking at hydronic...but I don't want to assume. Make sure the slab is insulated BELOW the heating system because it gets expensive to heat the earth underneath the house. As for the flooring, you need to tell us which option you are after: whole home heating or 'foot warmer'? The 'foot warmer' is when you have ANOTHER whole home heating system (forced air, etc) and the floor system is simply there to take the chill of the feet/legs. This is the easiest one to work around as it doesn't have to do much work. That's when you can use things like carpet or wood or even laminate (sometimes even a high end vinyl). But the whole home heating system is another beast. It has PLENTY of work to do. That means AS MUCH HEAT as possible MUST PASS through your floors. That means you want as much conductivity as possible = concrete, tile or stone. You want a floor that heats quickly and throws off heat REALLY EASILY. Wood is a semi-conductor. It is a partial insulator as well as a partial conductor. It isn't very good at throwing off heat because it has insulating properties. A laminate floor (wood pulp with a paper photograph sitting on top) would be a better choice because it is thinner than most engineered hardwoods (7mm - 12mm is normal for a laminate). But they too are made of wood-based products (wood pulp = fibre board) and will have some of the same properties as wood floors. So...the question becomes what type of heating system do you have? Foot warmer or whole home heat? Do you have a whole home HUMIDIFIER? Or whole home air conditioning? Because a wood floor will need both...the humidifier in the winter (yes...floor heat dries out wood sitting on top of it VERY quickly) and AC for summer humidity (helps dry out the inside of the house to keep the wood at a consistent moisture level). Better check your home's full HVAC set up before going forward with wood. You need climate control, not just temperature control, to keep wood happy....See Morepicturebug
4 years agoWetRocks
4 years agomyricarchitect
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoHU-814433645
4 years agoSJ McCarthy
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agopicturebug
4 years ago
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