Best filler to cover brad nails
aspiringdiyer
4 years ago
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Comments (9)
greg_2015
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Trim Nail Holes in Finished Millwork - Best Product?
Comments (9)Really appreciate all the help! Meldy - I haven't seen Quikwood yet (not sure I had seen it in our local stores, either). But good news...I bought the Elmer's wood filler yesterday - came in white (couple of others came in what they called "natural" which was a putty white greyish color - natural what??) and works wonderful!! It isn't solvent based, came in a tube that I snipped and can actually just squeeze into a bunch of nail holes and then go back and flatten down, plus is water washable around the holes for a little while - probably 5-10 minutes, where the Dap was drying almost instantly. So I'm making progress now! thull - my thoughts had been to buy 2 colors of filler for the cherry, because as you probably have also on the natural cherry, there are light/dark variations - sounds like I should go a shade darker on each also, eh? I think I will use the MinWax for the cherry - that was really easy to work with especially if it could be dug out and refilled in the future....See MoreWaterlox and Glitsa Wood Flour Cement as Filler
Comments (4)here's a picture of the floor section that used to be covered by tar paper, linoleum, masonite, vinyl, vinyl, ceramic tile. Is it typical to do the filling after the final sanding or sometime after the second pass? Does Glitsa need to be drum sanded or will a screen on a buffer be better? Thanks...See Morehow to pound in nails on wood floor, air hammer?
Comments (13)The nail puller will make large gouges on each side of the nail head when it is hammered in to get a grip. A drilling hammer (small hand sledge in the 2-4 pound size) and a metal punch that is the same size or barely larger than the nail head will get them in most likely on all nut the hardest of woods. If you want it to look nice, it might be worth trying to center punch each nail head then drill the head off. It is one of those things that the less work to sink them, the more work may be required to repair the surface. To a certain extent the floor might be considered so damaged that it is only worth tearing it up and installing a new floor. And I love old floors....See MoreNailing into I-joist bottom flange
Comments (10)I'm the same. I prefer to not nail sideways through a flange due to the possibility of the flange delaminating. Here's what I've done in the past. Approved by the manufacturer: Cut a length of 2x4 blocking long enough to go web-to-web across the joist bay. I run a bead of PL then install the blocking and nail it off. I fasten through the web and into the end grain of the blocking. Two fasteners per end. For a 2x4 partition wall I'll then run a 2x6 in the direction of the partition wall, centered on the centerline of the future partition wall. With the 2x4 being the same thickness as the joist flanges, it'll act as a filler, and by it protruding an inch past each edge of the top plate of the soon to be installed partition wall, it'll act as a backer to support the floating edge of the ceiling drywall....See Moreci_lantro
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