stone veneers for exterior wooden steps
Natasha Shahram
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
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Natasha Shahram
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Help - pros and cons of 2 inch vs 4 inch exterior stone veneer
Comments (2)The term "veneer" in a masonry exterior wall traditionally refers to a 4" thick masonry "veneer", a drainage cavity behind it and a back-up wall of some kind. Another newer system is gnerally called a "thin veneer" where a 1/2" to 3/4" thin layer of masonry is directly adhered to a masonry back up wall with mortar. The former is normally for brick on wood framed or concrete block back-up walls and where subject to freeze thaw cycles because it allows for water drainage and differential movement. The latter can be used with stone and concrete or concrete block back-up walls in warm dry climates. On high rise buildings a 2" stone cladding is usually supported by an elaborate system of stainless steel pins and connectors with a cavity behind it. What are you building?...See MoreStone Veneer Height/Amount. How to wrap the sides of the house?
Comments (36)Its interesting that the OP would think half-story-height masonry on only the front of a house would look like a tract house. To me, half-story-height masonry on any side of a house would look like a tract house and full-story-height masonry on only the front is not uncommon on historic colonial era houses where its obvious the masonry is actually supporting the floors of the house. These days, with the growing supremacy of imitation, when little is what it apears to be, it is often impossible to identify a material until you get close enough to see an embossed texture and/or the awkward transitions between dissimilar simulated materials. Perhaps its not obvious to some that a real masonry wall below window sills would not be stable. The most basic fact about a house structure is that exterior walls span vertically from floor to floor and transfer wind & earthquake loads to the horizontal floor plates where they are distributed to the side walls and then to the foundation. Ignoring this most basic building principle tends to rob a house of its integrity, if only at a subconscious level, and creates a vague sense of disrespect for the past and reality in general....See MoreStone veneer brand for an ICF wall
Comments (29)Ion Ion, As others have tried to communicate, the objection to installing stone veneer is an aesthetic one. While it would meet your intent to introduce a different material and texture, it will call attention to itself, and, owing to the fact that vinyl siding is installed on the foundation below, it will scream "fake." Your attempt to provide some "piece of mind" for the pros regarding the support for a stone veneer provides no peace of mind for this one. A stone veneer--either natural or manufactured--would not be supported on a ledge of the type you showed in the wall section view. Stone veneers are adhered to the wall-- typically over metal lathe fastened through the foam to the concrete. If you are planning to install 4" thick full building stone, it would be supported on a stone ledge, but that would requires a 5" or 6" ledge not the 2" you described. Proceed with caution....See MoreUgly exterior stone veneer
Comments (29)The stone is definitely not the problem. Easiest and quickest "fix" is to paint the trim (except around garage doors) something close to the darkest color (?medium/dark gray?) from within the stone -- but paint the garage doors and trim the same color as the siding. If the siding actually doesn't need to be repainted now, then don't; however, if the siding does need to be repainted, choose a lighter shade of gray (or another color from within the stone) for all the siding and for the garage doors and garage door trim and a slightly darker shade of the same color for all the other trim. The best, "fix" for the style of the house without a major overhaul of the house itself -- not a practical idea for a winter project -- would be to create a ground floor level entry centered where the current steps/stoop is located -- perhaps extending all the way to the back of the house -- and then put your steps to go up into your home over the garage within that new entry. create a porch in front with its ceiling at the upstairs floor level beginning at the new entry and in front of it alongside the garage to just beyond the front of the garage so you can have that porch roof turn at a right angle (hip corner) to build a shelter -- roof overhang -- over the garage doors. No need for posts in front of the garage if you build just an overhang with supports attached beside and in between the garage doors beneath the roof/overhang. You might consider "enlarging" the upstairs windows over the garage -- if not by actually enlarging the windows, then by creating a frame the same height around the real window and a faux window beneath it....See MoreNatasha Shahram
4 years agoNatasha Shahram
4 years agoSJ McCarthy
4 years agohazelcraddock
4 years ago
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