Another level of thin plywood ?? or Self Leveling Flooring Compound

The single most cost effect solution: There are different kinds of floor transition trim strips that you can add to the floor where the two levels of floor meet.

https://www.google.com/search?q=floor+trim+strips+between+carpet+and+tile&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjhjP--pp_lAhWtiOAKHeG2CfUQ_AUIEigC&biw=1328&bih=617#imgrc=8MVTy_MwIeRw2M:&spf=1571178102604

Some transition trim strips are narrow, others much wider. Some fasten to the floor in different ways than others. Don't just glue one down. At least secure it with finishing nails.

http://drinkingoutloud.co/carpet-threshold-strips/

https://www.ebay.co.uk/c/2125905002

placing vinyl/laminate over existing tiles isn't a good idea. the underlying tile lines can show through.

Remove the tile yourself (if budget is a concern) and level out your subfloor.

just do it right the first time and you won't have to spend money worrying about the step up into the kitchen.

it's not a big deal to remove them. rent the tools you need at Home Depot and enlist the help of family or friends. It's the RIGHT way to do it. Don't compound a bad idea because it's the cheapest way.

Beth, they are putting down laminate...........lines do not telegraph thru laminate flooring.

ah, ok, i read over that too quickly. thanks.

(i'd still remove the tile though. this way it will be level w/the other room)

Placing new flooring on top of tiles is never good and now you will need to raise the other floor with plywood and that can open up all linds of issues . Take the time to remove the tile it often is much easier than you think

Are you ever going to be able to change out your dishwasher and refrigerator after this adventure?

Are you floating the laminate? Is it the click and lock kind? You may be able to get different thicknesses of underlayment to get it even.

Mrs. S, why wouldn’t I be able to?

Well, you want to measure the height from the existing flooring to the lowest part of the countertop above your dishwasher, and whether there's enough room to slide out your dishwasher if you add another half inch or so of flooring on top of that. In my case, if I added flooring on top of our existing flooring, there would be no way to slide out our dishwasher (nor our built-in refrigerator), without demolishing the countertop and/or cabinetry.

Maybe that's not an issue in your case, but I'm just saying that you ought to consider it.

A lot of people consider this type of idea, but this is only one instance of things you ought to consider before adding flooring on top of what you have. Will it affect doors and molding? How about thresholds to outside doorways?

You have at least 4 professionals on your thread sending you the message that this is not a great idea, or least offering you serious caveats. Just do your research beforehand, so you don't throw money away. I would start with searching for threads in the flooring forum on this topic.

And just for fun, I'm going to tell you that laminate floors are NOT to be installed in a kitchen...so the point could be moot.

Laminate products do NOT like water. They do NOT like STEAM. They swell and bubble and peel in the presence of moisture. Dishwashers are NOTORIOUS for DESTROYING laminate floors inside of 3 years. Yes. I said it. Three years.

That's why man created porcelain, ceramic, vinyl, linoleum and cork. All of these products do well in front of a dishwasher that is steaming away.

Right now, you have the right floor in the kitchen. You are hoping to leave it in place so that you can put the wrong floor in it's place. That's probably not a good idea. To be clear, a laminate floor needs a lovely smooth, flat, level substrate to sit on. Tile is rarely smooth (tiles often have textures), flat (grout lines = not flat) or level (many tiles can sit 'proud' or too high on one edge or the other).

Usually to get laminate to go down SUCCESSFULLY over top of tile means you have to spread concrete over top of the tile to get it (you guessed it) smooth, flat and level. And to do THAT takes $$ and ++ time. It is literally cheaper and faster to jack out tile than to sink it/encase it in cement/Self Leveler (which is NOT self leveling!!!).

SJ, thank you for your input. Actually, we had laminate wood flooring in our old kitchen for 10 years (with three large dogs, many spills with small children,) and they were in great condition when we sold our home. We are using the same product we used in our old home to ensure the durability.

Good news. But the situation with the leveling is still there. If you wish to leave the tiles there, you will have to put some money and muscle and rented machines into this. It will probably take 2-3 days longer than if you hammered out the tiles. But if you insist, here are the list of instructions:

1. Rent sanding machine and purchase pads/belts for stone/concrete/tile

2. Tent off the kitchen with plastic sheeting; as well as air vents to prevent dust from getting into the ducts

3. Sand/rough up the tile (take the shiny finish off so that the next steps have something to grab on to).

4. With shop-vac, vacuum up the dust created by the sanding; wipe clean with water; allow to dry

5. Purchase primer AND Self Leveling Compound (SLC); make sure the two products are compatible....usually working with the same manufacturer is the way to go.

6. Roll on the primer onto the roughed up surface of the tile

7. Allow to cure (probably 1 day)

8. Mix recommended amount of SLC to cover your tiles in the MEDIUM amount of product allowable (read instructions to find out the MAXIMUM and the MINIMUM thickness and then pick an amount in between)

9. Trowel on or 'float' the cementatious material over the tile...remember to check for 'level' every few minutes (remember: SLC is NOT self-leveling = you will work very hard to keep everything level)

10. Allow to cure (24-48 hrs depending on your manufacturer)

11. Check for level. Mark the 'high' points and begin sanding those areas down

12. Vacuum up excess material; wipe down with lighting damp cloth

13. Allow to dry

14. Begin installing the floor.

Whew! If you hire this out, you will pay $2/sf for this type of job. If it is a small kitchen, then you will pay a 'minimum job' fee which could look a bit more like $3-4/sf.

If you remove the tiles you will pay $2/sf (same applies above). But the height variance between the two floors will be easier to deal with. You only need to 'lift' the kitchen floor to meet the REST of the house...which is much, much much smaller area to deal with.

Ok so you are sure your dishwasher will fit with this ‘keep tile in place method’?