The safest and simplest way to ensure their health is to plant things that are not prone to disease and pest problems in your area. Apples and stone fruits (cherries, apricots, peaches, plums) are probably the hardest as a group, although some selections will be better than others. Paw paws, persimmons, blackberries, kiwis, jujubes and maybe pears are some that are much less prone to pest and disease problems. I won't say they are problem free, but they are a lot easier than the others. Maybe some of the other Kentucky folks can comment on the specifics for that area. Alex

Rosefolly: I thin peaches and nectarines as soon as I can tell which are the biggest fruit. There is always a lot of difference in fruit size just after petal fall. I leave the biggest. I'm concerned about whether the twig or branch will support the weight of whatever I'm leaving. The fruit ends up 8-10 inches apart. On plums there is less difference in fruit size. So my thinning is mostly for spacing. And I always seem to have to go over the tree about three times to get them thinned out enough. Plums are thinned more by feel because of thick leaves, nectarines by sight. Plums are 4-6 inch spacing. The Fruitnut

Hi Kristi, What I'm telling you I know is true for apples and roses, and since plums are in the same family(quince and peach are too,) I assume it is true for them as well. The seed should be kept moist and sown outdoors because they need winter to break dormancy. Winter sowing works well. The tree that grows will not be the same as the tree it came from, but it could be very nice. To get the same variety, you need to root or graft a cutting. For citrus the seed need to be kept moist if not sown immediately. Of course they don't need cold to germinate. Some citrus like Key Limes will come true from seed. The seeds if removed from the lime and put in a moist paper towel in a baggie will start to sprout in just a few days. Remy

We really do need to see photos to determine what is going on, otherwise we are just guessing and you then may be following advice that is not appropriate or could even prove harmful. FWIW, horticultural oil is NOT a suggested treatment for borers.......if that is what you have. Because the larvae tunnels (bores) into the wood of the tree, any sort of topical approach has to be carefully considered and timed to have any effect. The bugs are not inside the bark....they are inside the tree and it often requires a systemic (seldom recommended for edibles) to ensure effective control. And the appearance of sap - aka gummosis - can arise from a multitude of conditions, not all of them serious or requiring treatment. Photos, please!!