Fisher-Paykel fridge trips GFCI outlets
Wayne
4 years ago
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Ron Natalie
4 years agoCabot & Rowe
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Fisher Paykel Dishwasher Drawers-do you have them?
Comments (112)I started real basic and then just tried things to see if it works. I put a lot of large trays and cutting boards down the right hand side. I put a lot of small bowls on the shelves to the left. Large utensils like bbq tongs in the place they say serving dishes. I learned how to load glad bowl lids by trial and error. I will say that unlike standard dishwashers you can really pack this thing and it still gets everything spotless. The upper right front corner on top is the only spot that is a dead zone. They have diagrams. One for New Zealand has a lot of wine glasses. One for UK has a lot of tea cups and serving dishes. One for US that uses both drawers. Best part is that the captain of the dishwasher loading police, my bil, is rendered speechless since he doesn't know the right way to load it....See MoreFisher & Paykel Dishdrawer Problem
Comments (454)Question for @dadoes who posted information regarding prism location above. Can you explain if the prism is missing how it would be re-installed and what holds it in? BACKGROUND: We had a DD24 installed in a new home and when we finally went to use the lower drawer it just chimes and doesn't run. Upper drawer operates fine. We've been working with Paykel on warranty repair, but they've been unable to help with no service provider available in our area. Being handy, I decided to take a look to see if I could find a loose connection or possibly see something awry. When we removed the lower drawer for said inspection a small piece of "plastic" fell to the floor. We thought this was odd but didn't think much of it until stumbling upon this thread. It turns out this plastic piece is the very prism in the picture above. Which no doubt is the source of our problem! So I'm seeking advice to understand how to reinstall/hold it in place... sort of thinking to the reason it might have been dislodged and/or if something might possibly be broken and what workarounds I might be able to implement if something is broken?...See MoreFisher & Paykell Electric Dryer/venting setup/moisture sensor
Comments (27)dadoes: "Fault 6 refers to the inner sliding door panel and latch/release mechanism on the drum, not the outer loading lid." Hmm, well I never saw the fault code displayed on the LCD panel and the dryer never refused to start up, so I have no idea when this problem occurred, and certainly did nothing to correct it. dadoes: "E-mail sent again. :-)" And received, thank you very much! kcred: "I've only done one load since the cleaning, but I like to think the dryer is now more efficient, but it also might be wishful thinking on my part. I'm just glad it's clean as I'm a firm believer in preventative maintenance." I never thought about dryer maintenance before I had this no heat problem with my dryer. I emptied the lint bucket after every load, cleaned out the indoor lint trap water reservoir, but that was about it. Now I know to religiously check the vent for lint build up (once I get a "real" one installed especially,) as well as removing the lint bucket housing from time to time to clean out the lint from there as well. kcred: "BTW, I use that flexible-foil dryer vent hose. Haven't ever had a problem with it." I never thought there was a problem with it, either, and many, many people use the foil vent hoses. I don't believe any dryer manufacturers recommend using this sort of venting, however, and it certainly isn't UL listed, if that is important to you; Fisher & Paykell's user manual, (which I have finally read thoroughly :-o ) specifically says not to use it (and to never vent your dryer indoors, either - good thing I never needed warranty service because I bet my entire set up would have voided the warranty!) I have now read many articles as well as posts on various DIY, etc., forums written by people that also recommend against using the foil vent tubes. From what I have read, the problems caused by these foil vents is primarily due to air turbulence/resistance caused by the ridges in the foil ducting cutting down on the dryer's efficiency; even more important, the ridges - and the potential sagging or kinking of the aluminum foil venting - can also lead to a build up of lint, which can cause both a significant blockage of the vent and maybe even a fire. I'm not sure how one goes about cleaning out an aluminum foil vent tube, either; I would think one of the "normal" vent cleaning brushes would catch on all of the metal wire spiraling through the tube as well as tearing the foil itself. I think it all depends upon your venting configuration. In the picture, you can see that dadoes uses an aluminum vent, but it is just barely extended, there can be little air turbulence, it doesn't sag at all and is probably very easy to clean out. My vent will need to go about 8-10 ft to get to an outside wall so I intend to use rigid metal pipe for my vent. Holly Here is a link that might be useful: Reasons why foil vent should not be used...See MoreFisher Paykel GWL11 short circuit
Comments (2)Your GCFI outlet/circuit is what protected the machine from having a blown motor board. Major appliances are typically not recommended to be connected to GCFI outlets due to the potential for false interrupts ... but in this case it saved your machine from a much more expensive repair. The service tech who diagnosed the problem to the diverter is an idiot!...See Morewdccruise
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4 years agolast modified: 4 years agowdccruise
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4 years agoWayne
4 years agomtvhike
4 years agoDavidR
4 years agoRon Natalie
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoRon Natalie
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4 years agojupidupi
4 years agoRon Natalie
4 years agomtvhike
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4 years agoOliviag
4 years agotraci_from_seattle
4 years agoDavidR
4 years agoRon Natalie
4 years ago
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