Thanks for the link to the cucurbit disease page, anney! I searched through it and the closest match seems to be molybdenum deficiency! The reason why I don't think there is any kind of mildew problem is because there is no substance per se on any part of the plant and because the colours don't match with any mildew. Also, the symptoms systematically start with the edges of the leaves. Mildew doesn't really work like that. To me, this looks like some kind of virus or something feeding on the plant. I have no idea why this plant would have a deficiency while the other clearly doesn't. They are in the same soil and they get the same care. Same thing with bugs eating them: they are so close that if a parasite were feeding on it, the other plant would have the same problem as well. I did find a small cluster of tiny black eggs on a squash flower this morning, but they look like those of the tiny black fruitfly-like insects that live in tomato plants most of the time (there are toms nearby). By the way, it isn't a square foot garden, just a raised bed that had to be reorganized slightly once I discovered that one of my tomatoes is going to turn into a Christmas tree. Some plants were shaded by it so I moved them. But the squash were never bothered by this (I would not dare transplanting those) and they still live in their original conditions. One thing I noticed, though, is that there are yellow ladybugs visiting this plant. I only ever find one and only once in a while, but whenever I find one, it is on one of the squashes--I crush them. Please, don't tell me I have been crushing a beneficial! Now, I have a big question. If I were to cut off two stems with leaves, would that hurt my plant in its current state? We don't have what people call extension services here, but I do have a botanical garden 15 minutes from here by bus that offers the same services. I could have a professional take a look at plant samples. So, if I were to take samples, would the benefits (getting a diagnosis and hopefully treatment) outweigh the risks (making my plant even more sick and possibly spreading whatever afflicts it to other plants)? Thanks so much for your help!

Here are some additional observations about verticillium control besides those commented on above. As others have stated, there is no treatment for Verticillium wilt, but there are some cultural practices that can control it. First, both horticultural cornmeal (not the grocery store variety) and corn gluten can be mixed in soils and soil amendments for bed preparation to control root and soil borne plant diseases. When corn gluten is used in bed preparation, seeds should not be planted in those beds for at least 60 days. Transplants, however, can be planted immediately. Using corn gluten in over-wintering beds can help control weeds in spring. Remember, corn gluten meal is a nitrogen fertilizer, so don't add any high nitrogen NPK fertilizer or plant food in those areas. Read more here at the Dirt Doctor: http://www.dirtdoctor.com/view_question.php?id=1959. Secondly, phytoremediation of Verticillium in soil may soon be an inexpensive and most effective solution to its control. In a 1993-94 study, Verticillium was successfully managed in California where broccoli residues were incorporated into infested soil in which cauliflower was produced. In general, members of the Brassicaceae contain glucosinolates that have either fungistatic or fungicidal properties and are responsible for the characteristic pungent odor in broccoli. The study also concluded that broccoli residue 'reduced the number of V. dahliae microsclerotia in soil regardless of the temperature, but the magnitude of reduction depended on the temperature' [at least 68 degrees F, 20C]. Also, fresh broccoli residue was considerably more effective than dry broccoli residue in suppressing Verticillium. Tilling in fresh broccoli residue or other members of the Brassicaceae family during in the Fall might become a best practice where broccoli residues can overwinter in a soil bed prepared for Spring planting. Finally, other than growing in soil-less media, the two most effective and economic solutions for soil borne diseases and pests continue to be: 1. Using disease tolerant or resistant cultivars 2. Crop rotation Here is a link that might be useful: BROCCOLI RESIDUE REMEDIATION, CALIFORNIA AGRICULTURE, VOLUME 54, NUMBER 3

Pictures would help but often it is difficult to accurately diagnose VW without cutting into the wood or via a plant pathologist. Catalpas are rather prone to VW and if present, there is not much hope for the tree. However, VW doesn't spread like the flu so there is little chance other susceptible species will contract the disease unless the pathogen is transferred mechanically, like with infected pruners or other garden tools. Keep your tools and pruners clean and disinfected and avoid any sort of mechanical injury to the other plants (including root disturbance) and try to ensure no other stressors are present like drought or poor drainage, etc. They should be fine. Take samples into your local extension service for an accurate diagnosis as to the problem.

Doesn't look like Verticillium to me, based on the pictures... V wilt tends to cause yellowing before the whole plant wilts like that, and these are still green all over. It looks like some of the leaves have gone all skinny and twisty, sort of like corkscrews; am I seeing that right? They're still green, but they've sort of rolled up and elongated into ribbons, then curled. Have they been anywhere near herbicide use of any kind? Did your neighbor spray Roundup, or fertilize a lawn nearby with weed and feed? Did you use lawn clippings in your compost, or as mulch? Is there any way something could have drifted their way? Tomatoes are especially sensitive to 2,4-D, which is a common herbicide, and they tend to get symptoms rather like this. Roundup causes something slightly different, but still similar. Either one would stop the plants in their tracks. If it's herbicide damage, plants will either stall and then recover after a couple of weeks, or they'll steadily decline and die. Which one it is depends on the severity of the exposure. (The good news is that, unlike Verticillium, it doesn't stick around for years.) --Alison