Just in case someone does not know how to update it open your pdf xchange viewer, at the top click on Help there you will see the option to check for updates, follow the prompts you will get the latest version and it will remove the old version. I went with the default settings during the install. once install is complete you can click on Help again then About and see that it did install the updated version number.

It's not difficult to saw out flooring at the toekick if it needs to be removed. And any water event that damages flooring will certainly damage the subfloor, or the plywood that the cabinets should be sitting on. Standard counter heights and cabinet alignment heights in kitchen design are all designed to begin at 0 as the finished floor height. Depending on the design, this can be an issue with tall cabinetry not being tall enough for the ceiling and needing to add a horizontal filler for the molding planned for it and the other cabinets. It all starts at the finished floor level. Appliances like DW's need the full 34.5 height or you may be restricted to only models that can adjust to much shorter heights. Slide in ranges are especially problematical because they aren't very adjustable and depend on the cabinets being the standard 34.5 above the finished floor. That's why plywood has to go under the cabinets and you have to know the thickness of the flooring being used during the design phase. Any other issues with doing the cabinets first mostly amount to the amount of damage that the flooring guys can inflict on the cabinets. Which can be considerable if a sander gets away from them. It's much easier to repair a hole in the drywall than it is one in the side of a cabinet. That has to actually be replaced.

Birthing photos are now a big thing on Facebook. I'm talking babies covered in yuck. Some even show crowning shots, with the mother's anatomy up close and personal. These aren't a few extreme cases either; it's a trend. And the photos are widely shared, not private. They get lots of Likes. What's especially disturbing--besides the obvious--is the way these posters don't recognize any right to react to their photos with anything except admiration. No one ever dares to object, because they know what would happen. "Don't be a hater. What's wrong with you? No one is offended by this!" So the poster thinks everybody approves. And the trend spreads. This is a classic characteristic of narcissists: the inability to recognize that other people and their viewpoints even exist as part of objective, independent reality. But we do exist. And we judge. Good luck getting a job from me in the future after I've seen your business in all its glory.

Mercy (OP) said: I would sacrifice the $40K cabinets and go with the $20K as long as it was something I liked/could live with, to get a nicer counter or maybe that fridge I like. But that doesn't really tell the whole story with cabinets. There are four major considerations with cabinetry, and a whole host of minor ones. 1) Looks. This includes finishes, trimmings and moldings, fancy panels, and other decor like glaze. 2) Construction. The actual quality of the materials and workmanship. How solid they are and how much wear and tear they'll take. 3) Customization. One way to heavily trim the cost of cabinetry is to use stock and put in fillers in to fill the gaps. One way to rack up the cost if you're buying by the piece, is to go completely custom where each little feature is a separate cost. Buying by the kitchen, rather than by the piece, from a local cabinetmaker is usually considerably less expensive for completely custom than one of the big brands. 4) Hardware. Drawer glides, hinges, soft-closers, self-closers, pressure latches, lift mechanisms, roll out tray shelves (ROTS), corner solutions, etc. I am one who mentioned IKEA up topic because their kitchens, by repute, have a much superior quality to things like their bookcases. They do all come with top quality Blum hardware, which, in itself, provides for great savings. People say that part of the trick to IKEA is a good, experienced installer. Also, there are a lot of ways you can customize IKEA, and there are blogs and websites devoted to that. A lot of people put their own custom fronts on IKEA boxes. It is, actually, a great alternative for people with a limited cabinetry budget. For me, I could give up on number one. The cheapest finish (brushed paint, or DIY stained) would be fine with me if I had to pinch the budget. My only requirement is ultra-low to zero VOC because of allergies. I would hate to give up on any quality of the construction, however (#2), because I expect the cabinets to be once and done. I could give on #3. I love my customized to a faretheewell cabinets, and every inch that I squeezed into them, but could make do with a bit less if I needed to save the money. The hardware (#4) is a mixed bag for me. I have a lot of expensive hardware. I'd be fine with good quality glides and hinges, but no soft- or self- closers, pressure latches, lift doors, etc. I'd still want my extra heavy duty glides on the pot drawers, et al. And I wouldn't give up the drawers or ROTS. If you trim on your cabinet budget like that, perhaps in your case giving up some fancy crown and glaze, or the custom hood surround, or whatever it is that you think will halve the cabinet budget, it's a great tradeoff. If you just cut the budget by getting cheaper cabinets, you're much more likely to be dissatisfied in the long run.