I just sowed the last of my cilantro seeds this past weekend, and they've already sprouted. The first batch was started in April and was fully grown (and eaten!) by mid-May. They grow fast and bolt in the heat, so I decided to do 2 batches with the hot months in-between. I've had success transplanting basil and rosemary from indoor starts. I'm in Zone 5/6, and started my tomato seedlings in mid April for late May transplant, and believe me, they were more than ready! For basil, started 6 weeks before planting out, and 10 weeks for the rosemary. I think I could've done 12 weeks for the rosemary, as it took longer for it to get established. Hope this bit of anecdotal info was useful!

About a month ago I dug up two mature 'Polish Spirit' because the house is being re-sided and painted (yay!). I figured I'd dig them up after I cut them back for the season, worked out well. I have then planted them in really large planters for the time being, they are actually filling out quite nicely. Yours should be fine, too, a little root pruning/trauma won't (shouldn't) kill it. Just make sure it gets plenty of water while it settles into its new spot.

Having dug out a mature armandii myself, I know firsthand what kind of ordeal that was! These vines develop huge root systems and getting enough of the root system to establish new growth when transplanting is hard to do. Plus, I am a little confused about what the vine looks like after pruning. Is there any foliage on the vine or is it all bare wood? The last concern is the time of year you are attempting this project - now is the least desirable time. While anything is possible with a healthy clemmie, I'd say you are looking at low odds for this transplant. The only other thing I might suggest is to dose it with a liquid root stimulator.......and keep your fingers crossed :-))

The best time of year to move an existing clematis is while the plant is dormant before the new seasons growth begins - usually in late winter as long as the ground is not frozen. At this time of year the plant's energy is stored in the root system. Prune back the top growth to about 12 to 18 inches and dig at least a 12 inch diameter root ball as deep as possible. Mature clematis roots can reach 4 feet down into the ground so the more roots you can save, the better. It is best to dig and prepare your new location before you dig up the plant to be transplanted. Dig a large hole, and dig it deeper than needed to make some room for compost or rotted manure in the bottom. You will also want to plant the clematis two to three inches deeper than the old level. One can use a post hole digger tool to get a nice deep hole. It is best to bury one or two pairs of latent buds, leaves and all, so that the plant can sprout from under the ground. It becomes a good insurance planting policy. The buried stem will develop roots. Before you place the plant into the new hole, throw in a handful or two of bone meal or other fertilizer high in phosphate to aid in root growth (see the FAQ entitled "How to feed a clematis - choosing fertilizers" for more detailed information on the feeding requirements of clematis). Bulbtone, an organic fertilizer, can be added to the hole without fear of burning the roots. Mix the bone meal and fertilizer with compost in the bottom of the hole, fill the hole with water, and place the new plant in it's new home, submerging it in the water. Fill in around the plant with the best compost or enriched top soil you can find, and water it in. Keep the plant well watered and fertilized the first few years until a deep root system capable of supporting the plant through dry times has had time to develop. It is best to mulch a large area around the base of the plant to keep the soil moist and reduce evaporation. Watering your plant is critical to its survival!