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Lighting Kitchens

Need recommendation on undercounter LED lighting

5 years ago

I want something low profile, as in I don’t want to see the light fixture, I want it to illuminate my work surface. (Countertops).

I want it hardwired and I was looking at GE Enlighten, and Kichler. I see a lot of reviews on the GE at the big box websites but none on Kichler. I’m wondering why the big price difference and if it’s worth it. I will need two 22” fixtures and one 12”. The stove is in the middle but there is a small cabinet above that can hide the connectors. I will have an electrician install them.

Any thoughts appreciated.

Featured Answer

salex

5 years ago

last modified: 5 years ago

Mine are Blaze by Diode LED - it's what my local specialty lighting store recommended. And it is dimmable. It comes in different color temps and densities. I got 3000 K, in the highest density (i.e., the most diodes). I have it installed on a 3-way switch with a dimmer on the switch I use most often.

Linda, if you go to a specialty lighting store, they can likely demonstrate the different options and hold something shiny (a stone remnant?) underneath so you can see the effect. You can also get diffuser covers for LED tape. My counters are matte so I didn't need them.

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Comments (12)

eam44
5 years ago
Bumping for you. I'm not a lighting expert, but if you search the threads there are a lot of them on this topic. Good luck!
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linda431
Original Author
5 years ago
Thanks! I was looking at the Kichler Q&A and they mentioned the need to install a device called “10570” if you wanted to mount them at the front of the cabinet instead of the back. They didn’t explain what that was and I have no clue what they‘re talking about. I do have about an inch and a half overhang or lip on the cabinet fronts.
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@Olivertwist, I recommend rear-facing LEDs to avoid hot spotting and glare. If you have 110-120 degree LEDs, downward facing is just fine. I was not suggesting varying the angles. I think if you have glare-prone backsplash material or glass tile which I imagine would give you all manner of odd reflections and even sharper glare, I would recommend working hard to source wide dispersion LEDs or LEDs in housings with diffusers like GWlolo's. LEDs in either orientation should not affect other under-counter items unless they're in the path of the light. And with pure strip LEDs without housings, you can certainly rout out a 1/2-5/8" x 3/8" groove in the bottom of the cabinet and bury the strip light in it. For a cleaner look, you should put a frosted plexiglass strip over it; that'll look pretty snazzy.
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Like live_wire_oak and jakuvall our electrician used Hafele LED tape lights for the interiors of the upper glass front cabinets. They have a transformer in one of the cabinets that power all the LED upper cabinet lights in the kitchen. They are glued to the inside of the cabinets facing toward the back wall. The light is pleasing, a little whiter than regular warm light bulbs. They said that if they burn out, they will come back to replace the tape as needed For the under cabinet lighting they used "Counter Attack" Creative Lighting Solutions Xenon lights. They are all hardwired together. These light do get hot, and warm the cabinet above them. Things on the bottom cabinet shelf are warm to the touch. The electrician told us that Xenon lights a cooler than regular halogen lights. I use them on the half power mode which is adequate for counter lighting. The bright is just too bright for me. They are 35watt bulbs. Most of the time I just have the counter that I am working on lit, I just turn off the ones I don't need. The total cost of rewiring our entire gutted kitchen, which included: can lights, all outlets and plugs, central ceiling light, sink pendant light, range plug, range vent wiring, under counter lights, LED lights, dishwasher, garbage disposal and dimmers came to $2,150.00. If I remember correctly the electrician spent about 1.5 days rewiring the kitchen. Here is a link that might be useful: Hafele lighting This post was edited by NWRain-Gal on Fri, Jan 10, 14 at 17:01
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There already is a built-in one-inch light rail integrated into the cabinets (i.e. the underside of the cabinet is about an inch deep). Designer said at the outset when I asked this question in December that we would not need additional light rails because of that integrated rail. I think the issue is really just that the electrician chose thicker LED bars (I did not see them before install). I should have specced them myself, but did not. I know that is on me. In my defense, this is a whole house project that has been going on since November, this is my first major renovation, and I am also in the middle of selling my current home. So tired! Lawrence, to answer your other questions. 2. Hard wired. 3. There are three separate banks of UCLs on separate switches in different areas of the kitchen. The UCLs within each bank are linked together. 4. As currently installed there are wall switches AND switches on the lights themselves. No dimmer. 5. Countertop is honed 6. I am not sure of the light temperature. I think they said around 2800K.
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eam44
5 years ago
And you want a fixture, not LED tape lights, right?
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linda431
Original Author
5 years ago
Yes, I’m pretty sure I want a fixture.
0
salex
5 years ago
Why not LED tape? It's very low profile, and the options that exist today don't have the "marching ants" effect of the early ones. And it's available in different color temps. Mine is mounted about 3" from the fronts of the uppers - that sweet spot where the cabinet front doesn't cast a shadow on the counter yet the light is mainly downward - and it's perfect, IMO.
linda431 thanked salex
D N
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
salex - do you remember specifically which brand you used? Are they dimmable?

And for everyone - our countertops will be a honed soapstone, medium to dark. There shouldn't be a problem with them mirroring the LED tape, should there?
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linda431
Original Author
5 years ago
I have polished granite countertops and thought the tape lights would cast a spotty glare.
badabing2
5 years ago
It's pretty easy to do the LED strips - just put them in a diffuser to soften the LEDs..

Here's a video explaining. Use a diffuser. I added a dimmer on mine. I used these led strips and soldered them together with 26ga. wire. The last thing you'd need is a power supply. I would guess it came to about $5/ft finished.
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D N
5 years ago
Thanks salex; exactly what I needed to know.
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Mom
5 years ago
I have dimmable puck LED lights, not tape, but do have leathered charcoal granite (Virginia Mist), somewhat similar to soapstone. No issues with glare or mirroring at all.
D N
5 years ago
last modified: 5 years ago
Thanks, Mom.

lol, that was fun to write - that's usually something said to me!

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