Water shut off valve leaking-Should I install faucet before vanity?
jamesmarcs
4 years ago
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jamesmarcs
4 years agoUser
4 years agoRelated Discussions
laundry room design re: water hoses & shut-off valve location
Comments (8)My vent is a rigid vent, not a telescoping one. It is 4" typical rigid duct work to the outside except for the flex aluminum stuff that is at the big box that I put in. I have never done any of this before, so I read and tried to figure it out as best I could. The box and flexible duct work I got online at an outfit called the Dryerbox. I linked it below. The box is put in upside down compared to their pictures because my vent goes into my basement and exits the side of the house. Be sure to calculate the duct run that is recommended by your dryer manufacturer. Each 90degree bend subtracts 5' of run you have available as recommended by the manufacturer. So you want to have the least amount of bends. I don't think the flex connection counts though, at least it doesn't for my dryer. You can get these flexable auger like brush for cleaning vents. They sell them at the website I linked below and at Lowes. I used it for my old dryer and it works. You are supposed to be able to run the brush using your drill to spin it, from your outside vent. When we cleaned ours it was beneficial to be able to get the brush right into the dryer itself, attaching a vacuum to pull out accumulated lint. There was plenty. Regarding the water, I think where ever you can reach it and get it turned off is the important thing. I plan on turning the water off between uses, now that I have the set in my living area. My old set is in the basement and I didn't give it a thought. This laundry project has taught me a lot about better management of my appliances. I installed Floodchek hoses on my basement set. http://www.floodchek.com/ I bought 2 sets and gave one set to my plumber. He thought they looked like high pressure hoses. He liked them. Regarding your pull out. Could you have a top and a bottom pull out, then a shelving area with door to hide and access the vent, electric, and water? Here is another drawing of my setup. It shows where the vent goes inside the wall and down to the basement. There will be a door on the shelving area where I can pull out the shelves to get to the vent exiting the dryer on the side. I bought a Miele set and there is the option for side venting. There is also my water connection on the right side that isn't shown on this drawing, but is seen in my picture. I also have and outlet near the front of this cabinet for an iron. The bottom area will be open for a laundry basket, though I will have shelving available if I want to use them. The bottom area is where my electric outlets for the W/D are. The one drawer shown will be one of those pull out ironing boards. I do very little ironing but thought it could be handy. My counter between the ironing drawer and the shelving above will not be exposed, instead hidden behind the door (door not indicated on this drawing) When the door is open there will be the vent box and water hoses visible I'm afraid. But it will be all accessible. Current design of my setup, showing vent that is inside the wall: Here is a link that might be useful: The Dryerbox online store....See MoreRadiator Spitting Water from Shut-Off Valve
Comments (3)Where exactly is it leaking? If it is at the stem of the shut off valve the you could try tightening the packing nut. Be gentle and don't force it. If leak does not stop you might be able to replace the valve packing. Otherwise the valve will need to be replaced. If it is coupling between the valve and the radiator then you can also try to tighten it. If it continues to leak you will have to disconnect it and put in thread and pipe dope to make a better seal. There may be material specifically for steam piping but I'm not sure what it's called. Don't forget to shut off the valve if you disconnect the radiator....See MoreShut off Water for Vanity
Comments (7)I've heard it said that experience can be a cruel and harsh teacher. First comes the punishment, then comes the lesson. My steps above make sure the hot water flow _completely_ stops. Sometimes, the valve don't shut off completely and once you've got the hose disconnected, there's no way to stop the flow....See MoreBest water shut off valve for faucet
Comments (20)Well I learn something new every day! Thanks for that explanation, Jake. I googled it and see what you mean about the tapered vs not. irafikov, it you want to do it for experience sake then I'd suggest trying the compression fitting. It isn't that hard to do. The point of the push-on types is that you are spending more for something that you don't have to learn with or think about. It's almost idiot-proof. Cheaper than hiring a plumber, though. And since you already have it, just give it a go. (Actually, maybe that's my pre-COVID advice. If you can't figure out the compression fitting, you could always pop out to the store to buy the other push-on type. In this day and age, if you can't figure out the compression fitting, you'll have to leave the water turned off until you can pre-order and go and pick up the other fitting which can take ages) If you really want to learn, then I'd suggest trying to solder a new valve on. It'll be more expensive if this is the only plumbing you ever do (because you have to buy all of the initial equipment and materials), but in the long run it'll be cheaper per fitting and the best long term fix IMHO. But this is only if you are typically a 'handy' kind of guy. If you don't do other types of DIY around the house, then I wouldn't suggest sweating copper as the first task that you try to do. When attempting to solder a joint, you could burn down your house or cause a leak. With a compression fitting, you can only cause a leak. :)...See Morecpartist
4 years agoalex9179
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoweedmeister
4 years agoUser
4 years agochispa
4 years agoHelen
4 years agoAnnKH
4 years agoalex9179
4 years agoweedmeister
4 years ago
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