Please help my lawn
HU-327121540
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
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HU-327121540
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Leveling my lawn
Comments (4)Portland has a zone 8? Is that Sunset zone or USDA zone? Doesn't really matter other than to make the point that there is a lot of zone 8 in Texas and the deep south. Zone's are worthless bits of info when it comes to lawn care. You actually do have compacted soil! This is not a first but it really is rare. Driving a car on a lawn that gets regular irrigation (i.e. Portland) is going to compact the soil underneath. If you want to do this right, in my opinion you need heavy equipment to rake this and level it. The tool is a box blade and it comes on the back of a tractor. It is not a tool you rent and learn how to use over the weekend. It would require hiring a landscaper. Cost varies all over. It would be worth a few free quotes. If you want to try a less invasive approach you could cover the lawn in an inch or so of mulch for a few weeks. Mulch has the effect of allowing the soil underneath to revitalize itself with constant temps and moisture conditions. I'm thinking the compacted soil might fluff itself up when the soil microbes are allowed to repopulate in there. If you have other leveling issues away from the area where the soil was compacted by the car, then the mulch might not be enough. How does the property drain when the rains come? Do pools of water form or is there a stream of water running through anywhere? Or is the soil raised above the surrounding concrete which would allow for drainage. Is the house clearly above the soil level by at least 4 inches (to the bottom of the "sill plate")? Does water pour or move toward the house when it rains? Is rain gutter drainage away from the house? I'm asking because leveling can be a DIY job if the situation is good. If you don't have to remove soil, then you can do it yourself. We always ask what kind of grass, but in this case, it probably doesn't matter. But it might matter. What do you plan to do with the yard? Will it become a baseball diamond or is it just for looking at?...See MorePlease help with my lawn!
Comments (3)I've raked it but when i do I feel like i pull up a bit too much "material" and the lawn seems to be left with just dirt in those spots, so i rake lightly. ShouldI go ahead and rake more rigorously? And those areas aren't moss. The question is whether that is dead grass or just dormant grass or what. That's what i'm really asking...will that come back with water and time or should i do something else?...See MorePlease help with my lawn
Comments (2)You start out by eating several cans of tuna. Then you place the empty cans around the yard and turn on the sprinkler. Have you already read about this? I'm going to assume you have, but if not, I'll finish it the next time. Get yourself onto a deep and infrequent watering schedule. For the weeds jump to Weed-B-Gone Chickweed, Clover, and Oxalis killer. Spot spray the weeds. You'll have to retreat in a couple weeks if the current weed seeds germinate. I didn't see any crabgrass. If you want to take some close up pix of the crabgrass, do it on a cloudy day or in the shade to cut the high contrast and make it easier to see. Close up pix can be from 3 inches away. Since you have any grass at all after 2 years of neglect, I'm going to call it Kentucky bluegrass. Because if you had started with a pure fescue lawn, it would be all dirt by now. KBG is a good thing. Why? Because you will never need to overseed it. Overseeding is done with fescue and rye grasses because when the grass plants die for any reason, they don't come back. With KBG the adjacent plants will spread to fill in the thin spots. The down side is KBG can go dormant in the winter and become brown. With the preceding lack of care yours is very likely to go dormant this year. But next year you might be able to keep it green most of the year, depending on the weather. Do you want the yard of the month or not all that? There's not that much difference between yard-of-the-month care and just maintaining green care. Applying the Milorganite was a good thing. With organics you don't have to worry about not getting it down perfectly the first time. With chemicals you would worry about it because you don't want to put down too much and hurt the grass. With organics you can't hurt it with too much, so reapplying was also a good thing. Believe it or not I'd rather see the yard ignored for 2 years rather than over dosed with chemical fertilizer, herbicide, insecticide, and fungicide. This should come back nicely. Mulch mow at the mower's highest setting to discourage more weeds and to grow deeper roots....See MorePlease help...my lawn is being taken over!!
Comments (14)>>Let's hope morpheus can help with a winterizer fertilizer. I think morph likes to use organics all year long EXCEPT for the final winterizer. He uses a high Nitrogen chemical fert for that application. The idea is to prepare the soil fertility for the spring. Any high-nitrogen, low anything else, fast-release fertilizer is great for winterizing the lawn. This year, I'm using Vigoro 29-0-4 (or some such, that's very close) because it was the second cheapest in terms of nitrogen cost per thousand square feet. The cheapest, pure urea (45-0-0) is too touchy for me to be terribly comfortable using it, even in November. Winterization goes when the lawn stops growing but it's still green. That date varies widely by locale and weather that year--for me in Pennsylvania, Thanksgiving is pretty close to the average date, but it can vary by 2 weeks or more either way. The rest of the year I use soybean meal (7-1-2, give or take). My applications are May 1, August 1, September 1, and October 1, but the August application is technically optional. I lean toward 15 pounds per thousand square feet to deliver 1 pound of protein-based nitrogen per thousand square feet--making the grand total N on the lawn about 5 pounds per thousand square feet per year including the winterizer. That's more than sufficient for Kentucky bluegrass and well into luxury consumption rates for fescue and rye. >>Christmas sounds about right. Again, I'd like to see morph's comments on frost seeding. Christmas would be fine. Whenever the temperatures have taken their final tumble into winter and aren't going to recover until spring is great. Perfect would be to time it right before the first significant snowfall that's going to stick around--but that's not assured in all locales. So off the cuff, any time from late December through February 10th or so is perfect. After that, temperatures are about to start rising for spring, and you want that seed to freeze/thaw for a few weeks, get wet, and go through pre-germination before spring hits. Sprout will happen when soil temperatures rise over 50 degrees consistently, which is another date that varies widely. Late March through late April are the normal dates....See MoreHU-327121540
4 years agoHU-327121540
4 years agoYardvaark
4 years agoUser
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoPatricia Colwell Consulting
4 years agogardengal48 (PNW Z8/9)
4 years agolizziesma
4 years ago
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