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What's wrong with my Sago palm?

4 years ago

This Sago palm is about 9 years in the ground. For several years, it was shaded by a tree that died 2 years ago. In the past few months, all the leaves have turned yellow, including the new growth. Is it lacking in nutrients? If so, which ones, and do you have any recommendations?

It's also possible that it is heat-stressed. Here in Phoenix, we've had an extra hot summer. It is in well drained soil and is on a drip line that currently runs every 3 days for 90 minutes 3x a day. I'm afraid to give it a good hose watering because I've read that it likes dry soil. I've also read that you shouldn't fertilize them in extreme heat.

Thoughts?

Comments (2)

MaryMcP Zone 8b - Phx AZ
4 years ago
last modified: 4 years ago
" drip line that currently runs every 3 days for 90 minutes 3x a day.

I think you are over watering that plant, big time. 90 minutes 3x a day? Yikes. They like a somewhat dry base.

From: Yellow Sago Palm Leaves

Why do sago palm leaves turn yellow?

Too much water. palm is from desert needs soil to be dry but not so dry the plant gets weak- if it has too much water put it out side to dry in sun or repot it

Why do leaves turn yellow on sago palm?

The most common reason for the fronds turning yellow is OVERWATERING. Once you stop overwatering them, the fronds will turn back to a deep green and they will be healthy.

- - -

Have you tried epsom salts?
Marco
4 years ago
This appears to be Cycas revoluta, a native of southern Japan. Yes, it likes a well-drained soil and will suffer from overwatering, but it is essentially a subtropical plant. Popular as they are here in the low desert, they are not really suitable for our climate. What you have here looks like a classic case of sunburn. If the damage is not too great, it may turn green again when the weather cools and if an adjacent building's or wall's shadow reaches in the afternoon, when the sun is especially intense. Mine is in a deep pot, under an australian willow acacia tree that casts a rather thin shade, and so mine burns a little. I drench it twice a week in this hot season (but that is to accommodate its hard life in a pot).

Something you might try in the short run is draping the whole plant in cheese cloth or shade cloth. Raised on bamboo canes clipped in place with clothespins may not be the prettiest sight in your garden, but it may save the plant until you can establish a new tree or dig it up and move it to a new home (against the north or east side of a wall or building, where it will get all-day bright shade or afternoon shade).

If you want an almost look-alike plant that is better-suited to our climate, try a Mexican dioon, a close relative. It is in the genus Dioon, and various species range from medium green to silvery or bluish green. Even these are a bit happier with a little shade, but they aren't nearly so vulnerable to sunburn.

Good luck getting this corner looking as nice as you'd like it too!
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I just want to follow up to this by mentioning (only because many don't know), sago palms are poisonous to cats and dogs. I had to rip up about 6 in my yard because my dog wouldn't stay away. If I remember correctly, they can cause liver failure...but I don't remember for sure. I believe they might also be poisonous to humans too, but only when digested. So make sure you wear gloves and wash your hands. :)
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Chances are you are watering the plant less than the nursery it was bought from, or the nursery that actually grew it. If new growth is shriveled, unless it has a major root problem, which chances are it does not, it would need to be watered more. Many people who work at garden centers have it wrong on watering. Cycads want good drainage with a good soil mix, but this should not be confused with cycads wating to be dry. This is not the case at all. I have a special mix made for me that I know drains the way I want it and I am watering my plants every other day during the year and every 3 days in the winter with each application being 1/2 inch to 3/4. If you did have new growth, that sounds like an aborted flush, which usually comes from not enough moisture to keep the new leaves turged, the yellowing or slight drying of the leaves would be from the same possible thing.
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First, I wouldn't put them in the sun at all. They have not adapted to their new digs, so they look like they are in shock. I'd put them in difused light. Make sure to water, but not keep them wet. I'd suggest a bit more water than normal for a little while. Now, they may or may not look good with their current fronds. But don't panic. If the ball is still hard and not softening, it should bounce back. It needs time to do some work on its roots. Once you see a new flush, you can be sure that they've adapted themselves. Ours grow beautifully with only difused light and not even that bright really. Also, make sure that when you planted them that the soil was lightly packed down around the roots. In other words, no air pockets. If you suspect that there may be some, I'd pull them up and start over, making sure there are no pockets of air, but also, not packing the soil too tightly. Hope that helps :)
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That is a root nodule, They will form at or just under the surface with many Cycads. They contain a symbiotic bacteria that helps the plant fix nitrogen from the enviroment. Generally it is best to leave them in place, Should be no harm done as new ones will be generated ;-)
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