What’s wrong here?
s1eph
4 years ago
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Comments (32)
live_wire_oak
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoHPM Craftsmen
4 years agoRelated Discussions
Target Humidity Level Cannot be Achieved
Comments (25)I look at the ability of a "cooling" system to dehumidify in more than one way depending on my mood and who I am talking to. Initially, a well-implemented, old-fashioned single/single speed system when started up in a hot humid house will drop the humidity very quickly but the temperature will not change very quickly relative to later. When the humidity approaches a more reasonable level, the RH starts to change more slowly, and the temperature decrease rate goes up. It may seem like intelligent design, but it is physics. After the temp. set point is reached and it starts to cycle, the humidity may stay in a good zone or not depending on the load relative to the capacity of the system. On a hot day with the system running frequently or most of the time, you should not see humidity above 50%. If you do, the system is not designed well. Compare that to a variable/variable system. If I fire mine up in a high temp/high humidity condition, the temperature and humidity both go down with the temperature decreasing more in parallel to the humidity than in the previous example. As the temp. approaches set point, the blower slows, the coils get colder and the humidity nosedives to 40%, or lower, even though I have a very leaky home and it is nearly always very humid outside. Even with that adaptive capability there are days when it does not run enough to maintain humidity because it has not been "told" to overcool in that mode. I'd say that the OP has a problem with the new system no matter if it is variable speed or not. Even if it is a simple system and the weather has been as hot as in South LA, that system should be hitting at set point of 82 F. A single/single system will fail faster than a variable/variable as the load decreases, but they should both make it at these conditions....See MoreWhat’s wrong with my pepper plants?
Comments (0)I have three pepper plants, two scorpion opera (Trinidad and moruga) and one ghost pepper plant. One of the scorpions and the ghost pepper seem to be turning yellow and are dropping their blooms. My other scorpion is doing fantastic. They all get watered the same, get about 12 hours of sunlight, and are seeing temperatures from 55 F to 90 F, depending on the day or night (I live in central Texas). Any idea what’s going on? I can’t decide if it’s a nutrient deficiency or nitrate toxicity, or maybe it’s something else entirely. This pepper plant is the one doing good. This one is the other scorpion, which has some obvious yellowing. This is my ghost pepper, which seems to be doing better than the other scorpion, but still doesn’t seem to be doing as well as the scorpion in the first picture. Here’s a picture of all three of them, with the ”healthiest“ one farthest on the right, with significantly greener leaves. On a side note, does anyone know why the leaves are somewhat bumpy and crinkled on all of them?...See MoreWhat’s wrong with my whale fin Sansevieria?
Comments (13)So Al, you mentioned that sips of water are not the ideal way to water. As noted in the piece about watering with a 'tell', watering in sips ensures there is no way for the dissolved solids in tapwater and fertilizer solutions to be removed from the soil. Eventually, the concentration of dissolved solids can get so high, water is actually pulled OUT of cells instead of entering cells during the essential osmotic process. This results in the tearing of plasma from cell walls, which is why the technical name for the issue is 'plasmolysis'. We commonly know it as fertilizer burn. I usually water most of my plants ether by running water through them untill fully saturated, or place them in a bowl of water and let them drink from below. The former is a better choice than the later. It's far more effective at removing accumulating dissolved solids from the soil. But i Have always been nervous to do this with all of my sans. so I do just give them sips of water every other week or so. How do you transition from sips to full saturation while knowing the soil will not stay that way and dry out in the appropriate time? The best way is to use a medium that drains thoroughly without any extra effort or special considerations. That's what I do. There are four other ways which immediately come to mind. After flushing the soil thoroughly, you can: 1) Hold small containers over the sink and move the container downward before reversing direction sharply to upward. You'll immediately see Newton's First Law of Motion in effect as water in the pot continues moving downward after the reversal in direction. You can remove ALL perched/excess water from manageable pots using this bit of science. 2) Tipping the pot and allow it to drain thoroughly. This is most effective when there are drain holes through the bottom of the pot AT the sidewall and the drain hole is at it's lowest point (after tipping the pot. Compare image B to A below. 3) Use a wick, which is best positioned through a drain hole in the pot's bottom at the sidewall. Let the wick dangle over the edge of a sink with the pot tipped as in B, until the pot completely stops draining before returning it to a collection saucer. For large pots, you might need to lift them above the collection saucer so water can drain. The wick should never be allowed to dangle in the effluent that exits the drain hole. 4) Efficient utilization of ballast, set in place when the planting is established, can eliminate 95% or more of a planting's ability to hold perched/excess water. Once it's become a part of the planting, it works passively to displace almost all soil capable of holding perched water, which is enemy #1 when it comes to root health. I’m very confident that the damage is mechanical. Me too. Do I need to remove the leaf? Or will it stop? It's not necessary to remove the leaf. Plants create walls or barriers to decay and injuries to protect viable parts of the organism. Dr. Alex Shigo wrote extensively about trees' ability to protect themselves this way, and came up with the acronym C.O.D.I.T., for compartmentalization of decay in trees, though the process is not limited to trees alone. So, if you remove the leaf, base your decision on whether or not you think the appearance of that particular leaf is tolerable. The plant would prefer that you keep it, and can chemically recognize when it's time to shed the leaf if/when it changes from an asset to a liability. Al...See MoreWrong stain colors or what is wrong here?
Comments (22)you have many, many wood tones. the cabs aren't bad in the last pic (the other pics it looks a little pinkish?) But the wood table, those wood chairs, the rattan and black,,,it's a bit much You also have a lot of patterned rugs. I like the colors, but think maybe this one under the table (I'd seriously look for a diff table) is a bit much. I like your console. try adding some elements on it that works w/the dining table. I'd look for some a bit diff, or refinish that current wood one. try some diff chairs w/it. Cant see if you have a table light or not new hardware is an option. something a little less bulky. I don't mind the black pendants because you do have the black windows. The stools really don't fit the style. Try a black stool w/a metal finish. Gold or silver is fine, depending on your pref. Furniture in the other room? pick something that matches the cabinet style this lighter wood table and solid rug color works a bit better or if you like a dark charcoal option: if you want more of an organic feel, try these options. and yes to potted green plants! If you liek the mcm vibe, you need some art and decor on that console by the stairs. style the console, hang some cool art on that wall off to the side. or, you could hang a mirror on that wall (art elsewhere) and style the console w/neutral elements...See Morekariyava
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