Me, too! I've been looking at the Tea for Two, but I want a tile flange and I really need a tub that's 60"long x 30" wide, (not 32") and prefer 14"+ water depth (at least 12") and cast iron. I would love any suggestions people have in addition to the suggestions above, which didn't meet by specs for depth or are over-mount drop-ins (or similar). I would also like to comment on the above recommendations so people don't order the wrong thing. Most clawfoot tubs, including the ones mentioned above such as the Cheviot or Sunrise Specialty, have a water depth that is around 11" at most. They are comfortable, but not deep. The Cheviot alcove tub is an over-mount drop-in with a water depth of under 11". It would have a calk line around a drop off on the deck. Oh, heck no! The Toto is an over-mount drop-in also. Dang! The Waterworks Minna sounds promising, and it has an apron, but what's with that moulded raised ridge at the top? It makes it look like a top-mount drop-in and have similar problems. I guess you wouldn't need calking, but you'd have that ridge water could get over and a lump under your head if you lean back. Has anyone installed one and has pictures? I'd love to be proved wrong on this one in spite of the price! It could be the perfect tub for me if it weren't for that top detail.

Hi Gang, I came in here needing some info on ice dams and found this thread from '05. Great info on LG/Werner/Gorilla ladders. These forums are really the place to go with questions like this. We ended up getting the LG17 from Home Depot. It has turned out to be a great ladder, but not perfect. If I used it every day it would be no problem at all, but for the occational user like me, it can be a pain to remember exactly how to get it to do what you need it to do. But, that would be the same issue with a Werner or Gorilla. It is also not a ladder to use in smaller, in home, spaces. I find it has a 'massive' feel to it so it is not the ladder I grab when painting a small bedroom, bath or even a hallway. For that reason I use it as my outdoor ladder and for that, it is just great. When cleaning gutters, getting on the roof, doing tree work, the LG is great and lives up to it's rep. When on it, I feel secure, safe and there is no sway or flex like I always got when using a aluminum extention ladder. I might spend more time figuring out the best way to get it into the size that is correct for the job, but once it is, the job goes much faster and I feel safer being on it. I really, really like my LG, but if I had it to do all over again, knowing what I know now, I would go for an in store, hands on test of each. Check out the Werner & Gorilla for weight, easy of manipulation, sway & stability. No need spending $325.00 if spending 160.00 will get you the same result. Thanks for all of your input. sooey

The sticking on your doors is known as "cove and bead". The convex curved bead is next to the stile and the concave curved cove is next to the panel. In modern versions the position of the cove and bead are often reversed. You can find old doors or you can have doors made in a shop or you could buy an 1 3/4 flat panel door with no sticking and add custom C&B sticking or you can use the modern modified version. The mortise lock set can fit in 1 3/8 thick doors as well as 1 3/4 thick doors. Have you measured the door thickness? older version newer version

The gap at the edge is not the real problem. That’s worrying about the color of the band aid over a nicked artery. That is not a job from a professional qualified tile contractor. One issue in getting recommendations from homeowners is that most homeowners don’t actually know enough to be able to judge if the job was done correctly. All they know is the guy mostly showed up on time and it isn’t too obviously a fail. They do not understand that what lies beneath their pretty and expensive tile is far more expensive, and far more important, than what it ends up looking like in it’s superficial appearance. Not meaning to insult you, but that’s true here. You are noticing the superficial low quality installation aesthetic appearance, but do not have any specifics about any of the processes or materials underneath the spot bonded tile on the out of plane walls, with no visible waterproofing on the still visible wall underneath. You’re still worried about the superficial appearance, and that’s not the real issue here. If that visible gap didn’t exit, you’d never think about the other deficiencies that are pretty apparent to an experienced eye because of that gap. (You’re actually very lucky the gap is there!) And you might go on to recommend this hack to other homeowners. Only to retract that recommendation in a couple of years time when the mold shows up. After he’s done his damage to other projects, and put you in his rear view mirror. Homeowner recommendations for skilled labor projects should always be taken with a huge dose of skepticism. Professional recommendations, only slightly more weight. An electrician doesn’t understand tile. The weight to give are industry certifying bodies, and membership in trade specific groups. Industry education for tile is trying to catch up and police itself of the unqualified. Its not the $2 a square foot Depot lot guys that are to be worried about. People know they’re getting nothing quality for that. It’s the 2K tub wall guys that are the problem. They present as knowledgeable, but aren’t. They do far more damage than the day labor guys, because people have higher expectations, but don’t have the personal knowledge to verify that the contractor can fulfill those expectations. A homeowner shouldn’t have to learn all about the technical details. But in the Wild Wild West of guys with trowels for hire, that learned knowledge is the bottom line defense of their castles against Trojan Horse contractor’s who surface appear to be qualified, but aren’t. To mix a half dozen metaphors. That work is an obvious fail. It needs to be completely redone, from the framing out, with someone who understands and follows industry standards. While cost is no guarantee of quality work, it is an overall indication of the time and quality of materials being used on the job, which does correlate to the quality of the work. I‘m not talking the actual tile. That’s completely irrelevant to what goes on under the tile. The required materials and time that it takes to do a shower properly has the industry prevailing costs be in the 7-9K range. A tub surround, 4-7K. When interviewing for your new contractor, after taking the proper steps to fire this one, please use the questions from the CTEF website about how to find a quality tile installer. Then use your now educated sad experience to educate others.