Advice for repointing glass block window
Deb
4 years ago
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Windows on Washington Ltd
4 years agoDeb
4 years agoRelated Discussions
free-standing glass block backsplash?
Comments (13)Lol, fori. I knew I couldn't be the only one thinking of this, so I was surprised that I didn't find much online. I will probably go for the glass panel. Reedy/seeded/rainy glass would be great. We have a glass shop literally around the corner from us, so I'll ask them if they do those specialty glasses. They actually made us a new panel for our jalousie window for free, so they are good people to deal with. xoldtimecarpenter, those ideas would be lovely, but we want to keep this simple and cheap, since it's only a temporary solution. We're also not giving up any counter space, since the backsplash will be installed on the narrow strip behind the sink (pic below). We have lived with the sink like this for 11 years now, b/c we keep putting off the kitchen remodel, and it's driving me crazy. We've managed OK by being careful with the water, but it does occasionally spray back there, and sometimes water pools up on that strip and then drips down. The reason we HAVE to put up a backsplash now is temporary fix #2: putting a cabinet (the white one in the upper right corner of the picture) on the other side of the sink, which will be almost flush with the countertop. That will allow us to fit a bigger table at the back of the kitchen so my boys can eat all their meals but dinner in the kitchen (we just redid our dining room and are using cloth tablecloths instead of vinyl, and the messes are driving me crazy). The paint on that white cabinet flakes easily, plus we will be putting stuff on it, so we can't have water splashing back there anymore. Thanks for all the ideas! I hope DH is up for this DIY project! And in case anyone is interested, the faucet is a Kohler (at least, I think it is). We love it. It also has a spray setting, and it's a pull-down....See MoreReplacing glass block windows
Comments (14)IâÂÂve replaced several windows in my brick/stone home. HereâÂÂs how they were done (in 1950): From the outside: removed brick moulding, the 2x4 framing extended about þâ into the window opening. The window opening was framed with 1x4âÂÂs. The 1x4âÂÂs were attached to the 2x4âÂÂs. The windows were set inside, and attached to the frame. The brick mould was about 1 ýâ it overlapped the þâ of 2x4 and the þâ of the 1x4. Before you start, see what width brick/sill moulding is available. All I could find was 2â so I made my window framing (the 1x4) wider with ýâ plywood. The flange moulding is really meant for siding or stucco. I donâÂÂt think it will work well to nail brick moulding over it. IMO, you just need a few screws: The window and door foam does a good job at holding the window in place....See Moreseeking window film that doesn't block light but provides privacy? ROP
Comments (22)Ok thanks everyone. Could someone clarify for me these things: I think I understand about mirrored window film now and its advantages/disadvantages. And I already understood, more or less, frosted window film. I guess it comes down to covering with some semi-sheer cafe curtains/valance and then doing the window film as an added block. So the ultimate question is, of mirrored and frosted window film, which would ultimately block less light? Thanks :) Oh--and just to clarify for those who missed it and suggested coatings, consulting w/ pros, etc.: I rent. I should've stated that....See MoreOld basement coal shoot replace with glass block window
Comments (7)All openings in a brick wall of this type need a steel L-shaped lintel above the opening to support the wall above. The lintel will extend 3-4" on either side and be supported by the surrounding brick/block. If the current lintel goes all the way across, including bridging the embedded concrete block, then the entire opening is still supported after you remove the block and it should be fine. However, if it only extends across the coal chute, then you would need to install a new lintel to bridge the entire opening if you remove the block. Also consider how difficult it will be to remove that block. You can rent a concrete saw to make the cuts through the mortar, but its a heavy saw with a lot of torque. Its especially hard to handle when trying to make level horizontal cuts. If your foundation wall is double thickness (likely), you have to make the cuts from both sides, since most smaller concrete saws won't cut more than about 5-6" deep. You should also wear a respirator mask with a good filter, since the concrete saw mostly pulverizes the mortar and creates fine dust, and you are going to be very close to it. Bruce...See Moretoddinmn
4 years agoWindows on Washington Ltd
4 years agoDeb
4 years agoDeb
4 years agoHU-991325631
2 years agolast modified: 2 years agoHU-867564120
2 years agotoddinmn
2 years ago
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