I have this conifer in my garden. Since it is no taller then 12ft. I see no need to post it in a photo since you are looking at a 8/9 foot one. A mature specimen will grow 20-30 ft tall and 10-15 ft. wide depending on your micro climate. Makes a great specimen tree. I have also seen them in groups of three which makes a nice presentation. A slow to medium grower. The fact that its growth habit is narrow lets you fit it into tight areas where you don't have room to spare. A great cone producer. The example in the link is my 'Riverside'. Dave Here is a link that might be useful: Picea o. 'Riverside' cones

Better late than never I suppose. Life's kept my busy, and in a good way. Here's what you asked for Edwin BUT, and a HUGE BUT, I'd say something odd here is going on. My specimen of Picea omorika x Picea pungens 'Troemner' continued to grow wildly and enormously, even on the side branches, while my specimen of 'Blue Sky' from Rare Tree nursery put out very small growth, and more curiously the needles were smaller than I remember as well. You can see in the photos, the two plants now look nothing like each other and especially the needles are about as different as they could be... Picea omorika 'Blue Sky'(from Rare Tree/Conifer Kingdom) on the right in this photo. Tiny needles... And the two plants in their entirety: Picea omorika 'Blue Sky' Unfortunately I have no reason to explain the differences in growth rates, as my specimen of 'Blue Sky' last year put out 6-10 inches of growth(15-25 cm+) and yet this year maybe 2-4 inches, even on the terminal leader. There was no digging in the area to disturb roots, no real summer drought, no pesticide applications, nothing. It just didn't grow fast this year... I'll leave the riddling to the experts, but I think my evidence would strongly suggest they are different. -Will

This is a way I would do it. I am sure others will suggest a different approach.. One for sure. Prep the area. Go buy one of those 6 ft aluminum plastic covered green stakes at your local nursery. Also buy a roll of 1/2 inch wide stretch tape. The green colored stuff. Drive the stake in the ground directly where your conifer will be centered. Build your mound or cone the correct height where root flare is 2 inches above grade. Make sure you compact this dirt so there is little or no give. Then go to work on the roots as Dax described. When you are finished set the conifer on the top of cone at correct height and stretch tape it to the main leader. Now it is held secure for you to flare out the root structure around the cone. With the stake driven in the ground make sure it is plumed to vertical. No leaners. Make sure you have enough left to pull up the main leader to vertical and stretch tape it to it. If you want to build a berm and have no dirt go buy some top soil from your local big box store and mix it in with what you have tilled up. If you have a local source that can supply what is the same composition of soil for your area go for that if possible. Of course you will have to haul it or pay to have done. If your berm is any size at all then I would use that suggestion first. You will have to decide on your course of action. Good luck. I know this is a challenge for you and after you accomplish this you will give yourself a pat on the back. Also this experience you will retain for the next one. I have a feeling there will be more. I also am impressed with the choices you have made. All will be beautiful specimens. Also known to be true. Most cultivars 1 gal. and up that are potted are root bound. Even the small miniature ones. The only exceptions are the ones sold in the wooden boxes. My Pinus strobus 'Angel Falls' boxed was not root bound and perfect in every way. Buchholz conifers seem less root bound and their boxed cultivers have no root bound issues at all. Stay in the range of 1-3 gal. for potted conifers. Anything above that is a challenge and usually unworkable and comes with root issues. I can say this because I have purchased many potted offerings from multiple sources. Wish I could tell you who the main source of root bound conifers is but I am not going there. For purchases in the future pop them out of the pot if the nursery will let you. If they won't do it for you move on. Better safe then sorry. Any reputable nursery should always guarantee you a 50% refund if it dies in the first year when they don't plant it. 100% refund if they do. Then I know one that guarantees them 100% no matter who plants them. Dave This post was edited by Davesconifers on Tue, Sep 17, 13 at 13:41

Oooh, oooh, oooh, I'll suggest five dwarf/mini maples for the conifer buffs: Shin Deshojo: Probably the most brilliant red JM out there, bright red, bordering on pink in spring, red and green in summer and then crimson red in fall. 4-7' in 10 years usually. Vic's Broom: A 3'x3' ball(in ten years) of green/orange/red fire most of the growing season. A little known dwarf maple, but an amazing tree. Everautumn: As the name hints, orange hues throughout the year, pretty heavy orange hues in spring, orange blushes in summer and strong orange colors in fall. 8-10' in 10 years. Shishigashira: The lions' head maple, very unique, slow growing, thick, strong branches. Brilliant scarlets in fall, bright green the rest of the year. Maybe 4' in 10 years. Autumn Moon or Golden Full Moon: Amazing colors, Autumn moon has orange/red 'ribs' over green/yellow most of the year while the Golden Full Moon maple is more of a gold color with wonderful leaves. Both like a little shade in the afternoon and grow slowly to 4-6' in 10 years. Forgive my japanese maple intrusion here, but it's the only thing I could help with to make bluespruce's gardens more attractive then they are: Great suggestion kaintain4. Will