Alyga: This weekend is a free plant swap worth the drive northeast to Redmond, WA as we've brought home more than imagined. Amazing that it's all free & lovely plants of all types from trees to dahlia tubers. Perennial vegetables & fruits of all types as well if that's your interest also. The parking lot gets filled to the max, so be sure to arrive by 10am if you can. If you have a wish list that is also helpful as someone will likely direct you to it elsewhere in the parking lot! People trade from the backs of their cars as well as drop off plants in a free area near the church entrance. Jim has a crew set up & serve hot coffee/tea as well. We've been in pouring down rain as well as sunshine & still gardeners everywhere with pots and plants. Enjoy, Corrine From the Pacific Northwest Garden Exchange Forum Posted by greenelephant Woodinville WA (My Page) on Fri, Sep 24, 10 at 14:20 You are invited to share in your "Autumnal Abundance" Saturday November 6, 2010, 10:00 AM to Noon Church of the Holy Cross 11526 162nd Ave NE Redmond, WA 98052 Jim Eichner host 425-223-7249 cell anytime. November is an excellent time to divide and conquer your garden: move woody plants, empty containers, divide perennials, gather seeds and store frost-tender tropicals. While we are at it, it is time to exchange and share plants and talk about the highlights of our summer gardens. Here is a link that might be useful: Green Elephant Plant Swap Details & Directions

I realize your problem has undoubtedly been solved by now; I am just entertaining myself by making this post regarding the treed area in front of your new home. Anything done to improve the soil under your two front trees is going to result in hundreds of seedlings that have to be constantly pulled up, unless you either have numerous squirrels who will eat them(they will eat maple seeds), or a very virulent groundcover. If you're not really into gardening and just want an effective groundcover, try Yellow Archangel. It will develop upright stems in spring with rows of pretty little yellow flowers, and has lovely leaves splashed with silvery-white. It will quickly shade out anything else you might plant, though, so be advised. I had a dead spot in front of my house, under the dense shade of a pine tree. By making a little raised edging of rock I was able to contain the mulch and leaf mold I spread there, and over the course of years have been able to grow tough little shrubs and ivy, as well as the Yellow Archangel. You can't make the soil amendments too deep, or you might smother your trees' roots. "Lasagnia gardening" is the way to go in a situation like that; it is much easier than digging holes for plants in soil like concrete, or digging around the trees and harming them. With electrical costs going up, I'm certain you will want to keep your wonderful shade trees! :) Other planting possibilities are Helleborus and Toadlilly, which are low, dark-leafed plants which flower in early spring; and a myriad of woodland plants such as ferns and Solomon's Seal. If you want to do that (a much more costly option), don't introduce the Yellow Archangel or ivy.

Amongst the best palms for the PNW would be the Windmill Palm, Trachycarpus fortunei, which is the palm in the pool photo. Other species of this genus to look for would include the more refined leaf form of T. wagneriana or T. takil. A smaller growing fan palm that is also perfectly hardy is the Mediterranean Fan Palm, Chamaerops humilis. There is also a lovely silver leafed version, C. humilis var cerifera. You might also be interested to try growing one of the hardier feather palms, such as Butia capitata, the Pindo Palm. Other subtropical plants that are often used in PNW gardens for a tropical effect would include the various Phormium hybrids, Cordyline australis hybrids and cultivars, and Beschorneria yuccoides. The silvery foliage of Astelias, which much resemble Phormiums in habit, are also quite hardy for Seattle, and would include the larger growing Astelia chathamica 'Silver Spear', and others such as A. nervosa 'Red Gem' or similar. Fatsia japonica is always a reliable tropical looking foliage plant. Usually not quite hardy as year round perennials in all but the mildest PNW locations, but great as temperennials, the Abutilons of all colors are great filler plants. Bergenia was already mentioned, but this is a great foliage plant that also blooms in late winter, and is fully hardy, coming from Russia. Winter deciduous subtropicals such as the various Hedychiums are also great, such as H. gardnerianum, H. flavescens, H. greenei. Cautleya spicata is also quite nice, and is quite colorful with summer blooms of red and yellow, and will even bloom in a fair amount of shade. My favorite Canna varieties for tropical flair would have to include the very tall growing C. ehemannii, which can get 10 feet tall, and has smaller rose red pendant flowers that cleanly drop off when done blooming. If you want dramatic foliage that is the equal of a Gunnera, you might also consider planting the Rice Paper Plant, Tetrapanax papyriferus, but this will probably be killed back to the roots in winter in most PNW locations. Melianthus major is another great foliage plant, but will often be killed back to the roots outside USDA zone 9a conditions. As to Acanthus, you should also look for the attractive A. spinosus, which has distinctive looking leaves. Acanthus does perfectly well in full sun in more coastal locations that don't get the baking summer heat of interior Oregon, but in its native Mediterranean habitats it will also quite willingly grow in full sun locations as well. In dry summer locations, it will go summer deciduous, and come back into growth with fall rains. In irrigated gardens, the yellowing, heat damaged foliage can simply be pruned off, and it will often push new foliage immediately if watered and fertilized, or can be allowed to wait until it cools off and starts raining again.

Olivesmom, you do have many choices, but you may be best served by some further study as to what you really prefer. The three photos are very, very different architectural styles, and have quite different interior spaces. For example: --The Williamsburg Colonial: a handsome example of the Colonial Style with upgraded details and materials. Colonials tend to be simple rectangles, 3- or 5-bays wide, with a simple gable roof whose ridgeline parallels the front elevation. Decoration and self-styled carpenter details are minimal. Interiors are seldom deeper than two modest rooms--they were Colonials after all! Growth and expansion typically took place off one or both ends, and/or a perpendicular wing off the rear elevation (sometimes 2-stories); --Second example: This may be called a "cabin" style, but it's really just a builder's approach to a woodsy vernacular from the region. The many gables parallel to the front and the heavy fascias, plus the natural stain colors, characterize this as a house in the tradition of areas where there are lots of woods (and lots of carpenters)! The direction of the roof suggests the house is much deeper than it is wide. --Third example: Again, this is a sort of "hansel and grettel" carpenter's or builder-style house (certainly not Colonial in any fashion) with a most odd "tobacco-shed drying roof", common in southern tobacco growing regions. The partial end gables were used to allow air to enter and circulate in the building's interior to help dry and season the hanging tobacco leaves. Such a roof on a house of this size, and in a western forested setting, is ill-proportioned for this structure and historically a bit ludicrous, IMO. The rest of the exterior has various moutain/western region detailing, ie, porch roofs and supporting columns, etc. I think your search for your "perfect house" might be aided by a good guide book, such as A Field Guide to American Houses, by Virginia and Lee McAlester. It's a well written and illustrated small paperback book that's excellent in describing the various styles of houses. Good luck with your project!