For example, these are the questions that would be asked for the exterior walls of a house. Two identical houses that face in different directions would have two different losses, because of windows/doors facing different directions. Walls: (Each exterior wall, on each floor, must be done individually) Any windows and doors in a wall must be included with that particular wall. A rough drawing of each wall can be supplied, if easier, showing windows and doors. All measurements, in feet and inches for walls, windows, and doors, must be included for the length, width, or height. What direction does the wall face? O North O Northeast O Northwest O East O East Northeast O East Southeast O West O West Northwest O West Southwest O South O Southeast O Southwest O A: Wood frame, with sheathing, siding or brick Wall cavity O None O R-11 3 ½" O R-13 4" O R-19 5 ½" O R-27 7 ½" O R-30 8 ½" O R-33 9-10" Select exterior insulation O None O R-1.3 ½" Asphalt board O R-1.8 ½" Beadboard O R-2.5 ½" Extruded poly board O R-2.7 ¾" Beadboard O R-3.6 1 in. Beadboard O R-3.8 ¾" Extruded poly board O R-5.0 1" Extruded poly board O R-8 Sheathing O B: Masonry, above grade Select insulation value O R-5 1" O R-11 3 ½" O R-19 5 ½" Wall construction  no added insulation O 8" or 12" block O 8" block and 4" brick O C: ICF Insulated concrete form, above grade Select ASTM R-value O R-12 to R-14 O R-14 to R-16 O R-16 to R-18 O R-18 to R-20 O R-20 to R-22 O R-22 to R-26 O R-26 to R-30 O R-30 to R-36 O D: SIP Structural Insulated Panels O 4 ½" panel O 6 ½" panel Exterior finish O Stuco or siding O Brick O Split logs on both sides O E: Logs Circle the log thickness: 6" 7" 8" 9" 10" 11" 12" O F: Block or brick, extends to 5 below grade Select insulation value O R-5 1" O R-11 3 ½" O R-19 5 ½" Wall construction  no added insulation O 8 or 12 inch block O G: Block or brick, extends over 5 below grade Select insulation value O R-5 1" O R-11 3 ½" O R-19 5 ½" Wall construction  no added insulation O 8 or 12 inch block O H: ICF, extends to 5 below grade Select ASTM R-value O R-12 to R-14 O R-14 to R-16 O R-16 to R-18 O R-18 to R-20 O R-20 to R-22 O R-22 to R-26 O R-26 to R-30 O R-30 to R-36 O I: ICF, extends over 5 below grade Select ASTM R-value O R-12 to R-14 O R-14 to R-16 O R-16 to R-18 O R-18 to R-20 O R-20 to R-22 O R-22 to R-26 O R-26 to R-30 O R-30 to R-36

Sarah, Have you considered doing it one or two sides at a time? That way perhaps you could afford having it replaced with wood. Although you said you didn't want to DIY on a repaint, I would reconsider that, too. You guys are intrepid and I assume you already know how to paint, right? LOL! Since a repaint now (as a holding action while you save up for a removal and replace with wood) would not have the huge, worrying issues of lead paint, then repainting is just basically standing up there and having at it. Is it the ladder work that's stalling you? Then I would consider buying some scaffolding to make it easier, and feel safer while you're doing it. After you've done with the paint job, you could resell the scaffolding, though I predict you'll find it handy to have and want to keep it. There's still some ladders involved even when working with scaffolding, but it does make it much easier to work on. Your house is the same height as mine and I can assure you it looks far scarier from the ground than when working up on good (at least Type II) ladder equipped with a stand-off bracket. I started work on the slate roofs of my house last fall and even though I feel pretty comfy on ladders (being a former volunteer firefighter), roof work required some getting used to. But it's surprising how quickly I adjusted. One thing, though, I find moving and raising ladders sturdy enough for all-day work and long enough to reach gable peaks, requires two people. In a pinch I can do it by myself, but it's by far the hardest thing of the day's work, and always dicey as it's at the extreme edge of my strength. HTH, Molly~

scargoz, Most standard exterior casings are either 5/4 (1 - 1/8") or occasiionally 1 x ( 3/4"). The only benefit of building them out to make them look even would be your happiness. I kind of like the uneven look and it also makes a great caulking bead spot, if warranted. With both smooth. you loose that ability. As far as drip caps are concerned, most vinyl siding jobs I've seen they just J-rail around the perimeter of the window. I'm not seeing any drip caps lately. Aren't nailing fins like drip caps anyway? I don't know if I got it right, its' just my opinion. Good Luck The PorchGuy Here is a link that might be useful: My Album

If your siding and trim are both true white, you could make your roof any color. To stay with the classic farm look, do keep the trim true white -- and not the glossy variety. Gray: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/700872760729013774/ Green: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/5770305752326303/ Red: http://lyonmetalroofing.com/jamesville-nc/ Copper: https://www.pinterest.com/pin/523332419183327045/ Different vendors have different shades of different colors -- generally a large variety of colors and shades -- and there are different ways to put them together depending upon need: https://www.pac-clad.com/products/metal-roofing/ http://leivancarvalho.me/sheet-metal-colors/sheet-metal-colors-packed-with-exquisite-ideas-colored-aluminum-sheet-metal-j-m-l-contracting-sales-inc-industries-color-chart-firestone-sheet-metal-color-chart-ilx/