Thanks to those who provided specific input :) . Lowes Canada doesn't source the Federal Brace 8-in x 2-in Plain Steel Countertop Support Bracket. Any suggestions for Canadian sources of those? Or equivalent? Trebuchet, I assume I would need three of the Federal Brace 8-in x 2-in brackets? Could I install the plywood inside the cabinets (there is room)? Is there a reason why I wouldn't use the "L" shaped granite support brackets that don't have the cross-brace (knee knocking) like the example below? What about this Ekena Millwork 2"x8"x8" Hamilton Bracket? Price is good. Cold-rolled steel and it's supposed to be appropriate for granite. Is there any way to evaluate the many different brands of cold-rolled steel granite brackets? I am still trying to understand is shimming the bracket end(s) will be required to get a snug fit to the granite, and if so how would that be done? Kudzu, that supplier doesn't ship to Canada unfortunately. This post was edited by feisty68 on Mon, Dec 29, 14 at 13:32

This has really turned into a mixed topic thread - but I'm back to the original overhang support issue. I checked out the supports in the link Katrina posted and Joe said he thought were good. They all require notching the top edge of the cabinet. With IKEA, there is that metal bar that spans the tops of their base cabinets from side to side in the front as well as the back. That's what actually supports the counter and it obviously can't be notched. So I'm back to my original idea which was to run a steel tube bar across the span supported by pony walls on each end of the overhang. (Joe said the fabricator could even embed this into the solid surface but I'm not sure I would bother with that). I would put bar about 6 inches from the edge of the counter - midway of the 12" overhang depth. I understand that we need to be sure the top edge of the bar is perfectly flush with the top edge of the counter supports on the cabinets (those pesky metal bars that IKEA uses on top of the base cabinets). Is there any reason that wouldn't work? I am trying to contact my fabricator to discuss this, but in the area where I am doing this kitchen, there are no nearby IKEA's so I'm pretty sure he wont even understand how IKEA cabinets are made.

The cabinet maker just told me that the posts will be constructed using MDF board to create a solid block. I imagine that is probably Ok, since they bear the load vertically, but if he suggests using MDF for the apron stretchers, that would be a definite no, am I right? I will definitely talk to the cabinet maker about adding cross pieces. Also, suppose that instead of 2 x 3 1/8 inch for the stretcher boards, I asked him to use square "beams" of 3 1/8 inch. Would that add more strength and combat warping? I'm not sure I can get a custom made steel frame. That is highly custom work here and would add several thousand euros to the cost. The legs and apron alone is probably going to set me back 3K.

.......I'm only considering appearances here; I assume you will do everything according to code and acceptable overhang safety guidelines..... I agree that the home and kitchen design matters here. Countertop material makes a difference too. (Floating stone looks weirder than floating wood for some reason.) A modern kitchen can handle floaties better than a 1920s-inspired one. In general, I'd prefer nice table legs at the corners. Whether they're chrome hairpin legs or turned walnut...