Because your slab is suspended above a basement, you could float a plywood subfloor or adhere a subfloor to the slab. When we float a subfloor, it is usually two 1/2" or 5/8" plywood layers installed on a diagonal layout to the room with each layer staggered so no seams line up. The layers are attached to each other only. The plywood needs to be dry and reasonably flat. Garbage sheathing will not suffice. Since yours is such a large space, I would suggest you do a lot of research on different install options and consult with installers who have done solid over concrete slabs. One important thing to note is the fact that even though your slab is suspended construction does not mean it is entirely safe to assume it is dry enough to install wood flooring over without providing for some sort of moisture barrier or retarder. Concrete can take up moisture and emit moisture depending upon the temperature and moisture vapor content in surrounding air at any given time period. There have been remarkable advancements in adhesive technology with some adhesive manufacturers making the claim that now you can install a solid to concrete directly when using their product designed to do just that. I have not done that. Engineered wood flooring construction is basically a quality plywood with a veneer face that is the specie of choice. The veneers differ from product to product; some have a thin peeled veneer and others have a sliced (sawn) veneer. The unfinished Owens engineered is of the sawn type with a veneer that is almost a full 1/4" thick. I did an Owens unfinished over sheet cork over a slab where the product married to an existing 3/4" solid wood floor attached over a portion of the house that had a basement. You could not tell the solid from the engineered. Good luck with your searches.

Believe it or not, decent looking ceiling fans exist. On every design show I've ever seen they're the first things to be thrown out, but I have them in every bedroom. Mmm slight draft at night without the sound of floor fan... I pspent no fewer than 18 weeks looking (off and on) for a "pretty" one to go in my master. I have lived with a 4 poster bed. My experience - unless you have really high ceilings, and I'm talking like 10 ft, and a sizeable room, it will turn your space into... tiny. Once upon a time in a previous life I thought I had a big bedroom until I put a poster bed in there. I like your computer nook. I always wanted a space like that, which I could separate from the rest of the room with some romantic drapery tied back. I might force that idea on my formal dining room. :) beds/headboards coverin ga window do bother me. I don't like anything to cover a window (couch, table, or otherwise) -- but that's just me. And if it came down to a queen bed, or covering that window, sure - the window would get covered! We have single panels on our two bedroom windows, mostly because they're skinny and it looked silly to me to have two panels. If you need to cover the window, something that seems to help (at least when I've seen it done) is to pull the bed away from the wall a foot or so. Then you can go with two panels, and it looks kind of intentional instead of "didn't have space." Something else to keep in mind with blocking windows -- does the sun come directly in such that it would fade your bedding over time?

This last iteration is very William Haines, c. 1950s, or Edward Wormley. On the one hand there is something very functionalist and good about it, but on the other it may be a kind of planned obsolescence, just like some of their super functional bedroom pieces. Their pieces became outmoded because people no longer had large telephones next to their beds, TV sizes changed, and large consoles weren't needed to control TV, Stereo, lighting, drapes and intercom the way that they were a la Rock Hudson in Pillow Talk. So what happens if part of this construct stops working for you? Then the whole connected piece might become outmoded. I think that it might be best to keep the pieces separate rather than having one specialized piece. If you think you need the vanity space as an actual make up vanity, I would probably include a sink but I would do something tiny like the Barbara Barry Sink for Her (and $$$700), just good enough for dampening makeup sponges,etc. and a bit of rinsing and hand washing. As far as seating, you need enough room to sit comfortably for a short period of time maybe even a bit off kilter, but not enough to lounge, so you may be able to skimp a little. I would do Low table height though, of 28-30 inches.

Do you have another bathtub in the house...for bathing kids? Unless you or your spouse enjoy baths...maybe eliminate the tub in the MBA? I am glad I have a linen closet in my MBA. I agree with eliminating the reach-in closets and adding windows. Also think about how you dress; a walk-in closet can hold all the things people used to store in dressers. (You really don't *need* a window in a closet, although Mark gave it one.) I agree with him about losing the (dated) double doors -- and creating an entry, rather than plopping right into the living room. If you'll eat at the kitchen island a lot, consider seating that's not all-in-a-row. It makes conversation difficult.