Any experience with Artemisea "Powis Castle"?
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Comments (14)Raee- Clematis / rose is a classic combination. In fact, clematis is often grown climbing through a rose. And I'm sorry about tacking my similar bed on to your post. Hopefully, we will both get more ideas this way. I'm still a bit concerned about the number of plants your using and/or the fact that several of them seem to be struggling. Pam- I planted 3 bergenia there in the spring. One promptly died, but probably just a statistical failure. One has been very robust in spite of neglect, and one has been so-so. I usually have such good luck with plants that I had about decided that bergenia, for some reason, just doesn't like me. It would be a good workhorse edger in this spot, if I can just figure out what it's wanting me to do to get it off to a good start. Jo- Somehow I missed your sedem suggestion. Any favorites that do particularly well in a partial sun situation? I do like purple foliageÂhmmmm. I pondered this one last winter and then really did nothing. Well, I did clean out weeds, amend soil, plant the bergenias, plopped in some daylily divisions that had no where else to go, but didn't really solve anything. Since I can't have the path I want right now, I'd like to tidy up the look with a reliable edger along this gravel path. I have plenty of variety (too much!) elsewhere so this seems a reasonable place to play with just using one thing. Does that make sense? Wellspring / Charlotte...See MorePowis Castle Artemesia.... have to move it
Comments (9)Hmm...I have to say that I don't really agree with the others here. I gardened for several years in a zone 7a in Greenville, South Carolina. The ground never freezes down there (if it does, it might only reach an 1", and only for a day or two). I moved plants up through mid-late November and never had any problems with it. I actually preferred moving my plants in the fall down there because the summers are so hot/muggy and sometimes dry that I don't think the short, abbreviated spring there is enough to get them an established root system to deal with the southern summers. I honestly think if you were to move it now, you'd be perfectly fine. Just dig up as much of the rootball as you can, if you are worried throw some leaves around it for protection. Thats just my two cents, coming from experience growing down near your area. ~Mike...See MoreCare to comment on my evolving plan?
Comments (16)Meslgh, you have chosen some lovely roses. I think you will be happy with them. I hope you will select companion plants that have foliage in different sizes and shapes because a change from the sameness of rose foliage will only help to set off the roses (as you will be doing with the agave). Some beautiful dark canna foliage would do this as would a large alocasia, some iris, etc. And in our area, you don't have to dig up the canna or the alocasia in the fall. They'll be fine left in the ground. Just dig and divide them when you want more plants elsewhere or when someone asks for a start. And for a change from just green, my beds that are bordered in lamb's ear look really good, and that plant does well here - you won't have to replant each spring any of the foliage plants I've mentioned. The canna with the most beautiful foliage (to me) is Black Velvet. I don't have a lot of it, but just enough to provide interest. Sometimes with the BV, when it is planted adjacent to roses of a certain color, I prune the flower off as if I were deadheading and leave the gorgeous leaves - they shade to different colors and look different in different light. I also love the very-dark, large burgundy leaves of Pink Futurity - it gets to nearly 3 feet here. I get doorbell ringers asking me what it is and where they can get some. Sounds like you are already wanting to provide contrast with the agave and Powis Castle. I think PC is beautiful, but I have to cut back mine in mid-summer or it sprawls terribly and exposes the branches. Of course, the branches will be exposed when you cut them back, but then the plant will look good well into December. I've never experienced this particular artemesia spreading anywhere. Also, don't forget that some vertical interest will help produce a well balanced and interesting composition. In some of my beds I have done this by pruning tall shrubs to tree-form (crape myrtle, rose of sharon (althea), Texas mountain laurel (sophora secundiflora, desert willow (chilopsis linearis), etc.) All of these do well in our area. I hope you can use some of these ideas. Lou...See MoreIs it too early to cut back the dead stuff?
Comments (20)Hi matoad, Im a little bit late to the party this time! Ive been planning to come back to respond to your post, but Ive been out in the yard trying to get a bunch of stuff done before the rain we got today, and, in the meantime everybody else beat me to it! I only have a couple things to add! First, if youre able to post pictures of your unidentified perennials when the foliage is getting big enough to be realistic, we can probably help you identify them. If so, itll help a lot in knowing how to take care of them. (Just dont ask me how to post the photos! LOL All I know is that you have to have a photo hosting site first!) As Steve said, for any spring blooming shrubs or bushes, if you want to prune or cut them back, do it right after they finish blooming. For sure dont prune them after midsummer, or you will very likely not get any flowers the following spring. The same thing is true for some roses toothe ones that bloom on old wood only. That means the only canes (branches) theyll get flowers on next year are the ones that grow this year. Theyre also the ones that usually bloom like mad for a few weeks in spring or early summer, and then dont bloom anymore for the rest of the summer. So if you have any of those, do the same as with spring blooming bushesprune immediately after blooming, and then not again until after the next bloom. Most roses these days, though, are ever blooming, so unless you have some really old ones around, youre probably ok to prune them whenever the spirit moves you! If youre not sure, watch them this year to see if they keep blooming all summer or not. I really dont know much about berries and other small fruits, but I do agree with what Steve says about raspberries. Somewhere in the hinterlands of my brain I think I remember hearing that one time. And if you should happen to have any other small fruits or vines, I think Id google them first before doing anything to them. Or ask for plant specific adviceOR post a picture if youre not even sure what to ask about! Somebody around here will know if you/we can figure out what you have! On the topic of clematis, heres a link to a really great site all about clematisincluding pruningwhich can be kind of confusing for clematis! If you ever decide to put some in, BE SURE you keep the name, because theres three different ways to prune themand it all depends on the variety you have. And Lavender! Thats a very different animal! As Steve has already said, theyre sub-shrubs, which means theyre not really shrubs, and theyre not really perennials, but kind of a cross between the two! You definitely cannot cut the old stems down below where you can see any new growth starting, so if you have old lavenders that have gotten big, you will probably never be able to get them all the way back down short again. If lavender has gotten big, you CAN prune it back enough to get it to fill in and look bushier, but just be sure youre always leaving at least a couple visible leaf buds below your cut. I dont like tall, woody looking lavender, so I keep mine short from the very beginning. New plants I leave do their own thing until after theyre done blooming. Then I cut them back severely and let them fill in short and bushy for the rest of the season. I then leave that growth on over winter, and when theyre just starting to grow the following spring I cut them back almost all the way to the ground, making sure theres either new growth left on the individual stems, or else that I can see new growth coming directly out of the base of the plant. For older plants, if you want to get them back short/shorter again, there are a couple things you can try. If theyre more than a couple feet tall, this will probably NOT work! If theyre shorter than that, you can cut them back as far as possible, still leaving at least a couple leaf buds on each stem, and that will often force new growth further down the stem, and then you cut them gradually back further and further, OR, you can cut about a third of the stems all the way down, and that will often force new growth directly out of the crown, and then you cut down another third and wait again, and then cut off the last third. Either way, theres a fairly good chance you can gradually get them back down, BUT, since lavender reseeds so easily, I find it easier to just leave a few of the seedlings come up new each year, and then I dont have to worry too much about how I handle the older ones. If they last a couple more years, thats greatif they dont, they dont! So, thats the poop on lavender! (Hopefully not cat poop!) There are a few other fairly common perennials that are sub-shrubs too, like lavender cotton (Santolina), so if you have anything that "should be" a perennial, but feels "woody" like a shrub, be a little bit careful until you identify it for sure. Other than that, I cant really think of any other perennials that require much special treatment at this time of the year. My Gaura I cut down partway in fall and dont cut all the way down in spring until I can clearly see new growth starting, but thats one thats not totally reliable in z5. And I agree with David about things that are evergreen. With things like Heuchera that are usually evergreen all winter, I just pull together the newest leaves in the middle, and then cut around the outside of the plant, trimming off all the older leaves that are starting to get a little ratty looking. By getting rid of some of the older leaves, you also promote faster growth of the new leaves, so they get a "fresh" look more quickly. So anything you have that still looks pretty good, just go over them and trim off anything that isnt looking so good anymore. Everything else that didnt stay evergreen, I recommend cutting all the way downmeaning an inch or two above the ground, but, since its been so warm out already, watch carefully to be sure your not cutting off new growth too. Lordy! This was just gonna be a quick little post here! I think its bedtime! Nighty-night, Skybird P.S. Just to repeat something Ive said around here before, Mary Ann, the only dumb question is the one you dont ask, so dont be afraid to check in with us diehards when youre wondering something. ;-)...See Morebuttoni_8b
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