A Question for Your Consideration
the_bustopher z6 MO
4 years ago
Featured Answer
Sort by:Oldest
Comments (13)
Related Discussions
some more for your consideration
Comments (16)Bustopher has very gorgeous photos of his LEH. In the past, I had nice photos of my LEH, but I still hate LEH to this very day. Here was mine. She faded horribly in the summer (predominantly washed out to blotchy yellows)and took direct sun very poorly. I'd have to water EVERY SINGLE FLIPPIN' DAY in the heat, and because she's such a disease magnet, no way would I put her with the rest of my roses either. What also makes a difference is that Bustopher grows his in the ground and if you look at his photos carefully, he gets enough shade for LEH, plus the intense spray regimens with both fungicides and harpin. The Kansas Gardener with the 60-70 roses does not use Harpin but he sprays his Austins regularly and still the disease. Carol what concerns me is that your zone may be too cold for LEH and the fact that she will be potted. Fussy, diva roses eventually languish in a pot if winterized overly long like yours would be. But at least you don't get the blasting heat and humidity and the BS pressure that we do. Her aroma is fruity but very weak. A tiny Cornelia flower has double the scent of an entire LEH bloom in other words. If it came to Austins, I'd only get Boxo's Gorgeous Abraham D'Arby and that would be it for me! Boxo's Abraham D. represents the ideal of the Austins, not only Gorgeous, but a big generous flower and heavily scented from what he tells me and a powerhouse bloomer. And if it comes to scent, Boxo knows Scent to a Tee! At the time LEH was my 3rd rose order when I ordered in March 2009, when I didn't know a thing about roses or gardening, and hadn't met Boxo then. For sure I would have gotten A.D. instead of LEH....See MoreHow important are energy considerations to your build choices?
Comments (20)Our house is in the planning phases. I have my idea/inspiration binder and wish list, and have just started to interview architects. Are you building smaller to compensate? Yes, 2500 sq ft (max), which is small in my area for a nicer home. It is for me, DH and 3 active boys. Current house is a 3100 sq ft walk out ranch, but I'd say 90% of our time is spent on the main level which is maybe 1750 sq ft. So one could argue that we're not building smaller. This will be all on one level except for an "away" or reading loft above the main living area. Are you building with high-efficiency materials (ICFs? SIPs? Other super-insulation techniques)? Yes, depending on what can be delivered on our budget. Looking for the most bang for the buck. ICF or SIPs, geothermal heat/cool, passive solar features, concrete floors, highly insulated windows are all on our wish list. Also the ability to add features later like a wind turbine are important if they eventually would have a reasonable ROI. Want to reuse/repurpose and minimize construction waste whenever possible. Are you building closer to jobs than you otherwise might have, to reduce commuting distances? We are moving to 5 acres just outside of town. It reduces my husband's commute by 5 mins and adds 6 mins to mine. It would be a wash except it adds about 5 minutes to the time it takes to get to the grocery store and to any other in-town errands. I know one family living on five acres conspicuously contributing to suburban sprawl is not green. But there were houses already built (long ago) on either side of our parcel, and the land was not being farmed or anything before we bought it. It's been sitting there waiting for someone to build on it for years (previous owners held onto it but never built) -- so if we don't someone else will. How's that for rationalization! If you are doing any of the things I mentioned, or more / other (and please elaborate!), are you aware of so-called "Peak Oil"? Or are you doing it simply as a good investment (spend money now in the build, to reduce recurring costs)? Never heard of peak oil. We are doing this because it's the right thing to do, and certainly energy costs are not going down. Basically I don't feel a need to heat and cool space that is rarely used. We live a very informal life....See Morekellog69 Is this your original BS consideration?
Comments (15)Hello! I'm here. Have been on vacation (actually still on vacation). Just seeing this post. I have seen this pic before. It does look like the field tile is similar. I think that middle tile is Ann Sacks or Waterworks. Do you know? This look is pretty, but too strong for us. We are pretty set on the tile pictured below now--except in a blue. They are making a sample for me and I hope to nail it down when I get back. We will do it as an inset, with white subway field tile--see my mockup at my KC home. Thanks for thinking of me, though. I appreciate it!!!! Maybe someone else will do that look. It is pretty....See MoreKitchen Design & Layout Considerations
Comments (7)Other Considerations: . Trash & recycle pullout The trash/recycle pullout works best in the Prep Zone, near the Cooking Zone, and, if only one and possible, near the Cleanup Zone. Far more trash & recyclables are generated while prepping and cooking than while cleaning up. So, if you have to choose, put the trash & recycle in the Prep Zone instead of the Cleanup Zone. [That's the biggest mistake I made, I put it in the Cleanup Zone across a 6' aisle from the Prep Zone...it's my biggest regret by far in my kitchen.] . . Prep sinks Prep sinks should be no smaller than 12" x 12" interior space...and bigger is better - I recommend no less than 15" in each direction, 18" would be better, IMHO. Anything smaller is not very useful for prepping. Those smaller sinks are often called "bar sinks" b/c they're really only big enough for filling a glass with water or dumping a glass. They're not big enough to clean veggies/fruit or empty a colander. . . Zone protection Strive to protect the Cooking Zone from traffic - both through-traffic as well as in-kitchen traffic. While cooking, you are dealing with very hot pots/pans/food and you don't want to be tripping over or dodging traffic, open DW doors, etc. This usually means putting the Cooking Zone in the most "secluded" area...but not always, it depends on the workflow in your design. . . Work/Landing Space Be sure you have adequate work and landing space near/around appliances and in zones. Sometimes skimping is required when it's a small kitchen. Prep Zone...36" continuous/clear countertop and next to a water source. Experience has shown that 42" to 48" is much, much better. Cooking Zone...See Cooktop/Range Cleanup Zone...See "Sink - Only or Cleanup Sink" Sink - Only or Cleanup Sink...A minimum of 24" of clear counterspace on one side of the sink, and 18" on the other side with the 24" at the same counter height as the sink. Sink - Prep... A minimum of 6" (18" is better) of clear counterspace on one side of the prep sink and 36" of clear prep workspace on the other side (again, 42" to 48" is much better). Refrigerator...A minimum of 15" of clear counterspace on the handle side of the refrigerator or on either side of a side-by-side or no more than 48" across from the refrigerator. If an oven is next to the refrigerator, the refrigerator should be the one placed next to counterspace. Ovens (Wall)...A minimum of 15" of clear landing space next to or above an oven if there it is on an aisle with through-traffic. If it's on an aisle with no through-traffic, then the 15" can be across from it. MW...A minimum of 15" of clear landing space above, below, or next to the MW. Counterspace if two zones/appliances are next to each other…Take the longest of the two and add 12". Cooktop/Range -- If the range/cooktop is against the wall, a minimum of 9" of counterspace b/w the wall (protected by flame retardant material) and the range/cooktop. (18" is better for elbow room) -- If the range/cooktop is on the end of a run that is open, a minimum of 18" of counterspace is needed for both emergency landing space and a safety zone/buffer b/w the range/cooktop and end of the counter. -- The other side of the range/cooktop should have a minimum of 24" for both emergency landing space and workspace. -- If the range/cooktop is in an island or peninsula with no seating behind the range/cooktop, then there should be a minimum of 18" b/w the back of the range/cooktop and the back counter edge of the island/peninsula. -- If the range/cooktop is in an island or peninsula with seating behind the range/cooktop, then there should be a minimum of 24" b/w the back of the range/cooktop and the back counter edge of the island/peninsula. -- Note: For functionality, at least 24" on each side is better, regardless of location of cooktop/range. This space can be shared with the Prep Zone on one side; if it is, then there should be at least 48" (36" + 12") on the side shared with the Prep Zone. -- Check your local Code. Some local Codes are more restrictive. If not, stick to these recommendations....See More
sultry_jasmine_nights (Florida-9a-ish)
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agothe_bustopher z6 MO thanked sultry_jasmine_nights (Florida-9a-ish)
Related Stories
GARDENING GUIDES6 Questions That Will Help You Pick the Best Plants for Your Site
Before you head to the nursery, learn more about your outdoor space
Full Story
DECORATING GUIDESThese Questions Will Help You Choose the Right Accent Chair
Narrow down the style, color, material and size you want for a chair that will enhance your space
Full Story
KITCHEN DESIGN7 Tricky Questions to Ask When Planning Your New Kitchen
Addressing these details will ensure a smoother project with personalized style
Full Story
THE POLITE HOUSEThe Polite House: Considerations for Hosting a Housewarming Party
At a move-in celebration, are invitations to new neighbors required and gifts expected?
Full Story
ARCHITECTURE5 Questions to Ask Before Committing to an Open Floor Plan
Wide-open spaces are wonderful, but there are important functional issues to consider before taking down the walls
Full Story
ADDITIONS10 Considerations for the Bedroom Addition of Your Dreams
Get the master bedroom you've always wanted by carefully considering views, access to the outdoors and more
Full Story
WORKING WITH PROS12 Questions Your Interior Designer Should Ask You
The best decorators aren’t dictators — and they’re not mind readers either. To understand your tastes, they need this essential info
Full Story
LANDSCAPE DESIGN5 Essential Considerations for a Landscape Design Project
Get your winter garden fix by planning an entirely new landscape or just an update for a single garden stretch
Full Story
GARDENING GUIDESNo-Regret Plants: 5 Questions Smart Shoppers Ask
Quit wasting money and time at the garden center. This checklist will ensure that the plants you're eyeing will stick around in your yard
Full Story
BATHROOM DESIGN9 Surprising Considerations for a Bathroom Remodel
Don't even pick up a paint chip before you take these bathroom remodel aspects into account
Full Story
nanadollZ7 SWIdaho