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When my futon couch was to be used as a bed, I put a mattress pad (I used a breathable waterproof one to protect the futon cover) and fitted sheet right over the cover. The covers were a bear to take off and put on so I preferred to fool with that as little as possible! Waterbed sheets are great for futons - the top sheet is fitted at the foot, just like a bottom sheet, so the darn thing stays in place. Since a futon mattress is more flexible than a conventional mattress, it's easier for the top sheet to pull out. They're not easy to find, though. (The older style of waterbed sheets where the top sheet is sewn onto the bottom one at the foot is a stinker to wash and dry.) As for whether your middle-aged house guests will be cursing you, that's a big YMMV. A thick, high-quality futon mattress with springs and plenty of foam padding (conventional foam, memory foam, or both), is FAR superior to the old-style all-cotton or all-wool ones that mat down something fierce and become hard and lumpy. You want one that can be flipped because the cotton/cotton-like batting that is the outermost padding layer on most futons can pack down and flipping and turning the futon can minimize the effects. If you haven't already chosen your frame, I suggest looking for a "wall hugger" style that doesn't need to be hauled away from the wall to be converted to bed form, and a mechanism that one person can open or close. Some of them really have to be wrestled around and that's a pain (sometimes literally!). If you can, sit or lie on the futon you're considering in the store, when it's in its bed position, as some of them can be tippy.

Okay, thank you... I'm starting to understand. Also found an old thread that was helpful. I'll forget the between the appliance idea, then. Greendesigns: Thank you so much and please bear with me just to make sure I understand what you're saying: 1. If this installs between a cabinet and a fridge that has a side panel, I can attach it to that fridge panel as well as to the cab on the other side? Another counter height panel WOULDN'T be necessary next to the fridge panel? 2. If the fridge was free-standing, then a counter-height, 3/4" panel would need to be added next to the fridge so there'd be something to screw the insert to? And... 3. If I want it to look like a fill piece, just add the fill piece to the front of the pullout insert. If I want it to be even with the front of the doors then an additional something needs to be added on top of the fill piece? One more question for you: If a person had a tall pullout between a fridge (with side panel) and a wall, could the insert be screwed into the wall on that side, or does another panel need to be added to the wall and then the pullout screwed to that? Taggie: thank you for those links. I do remember that broom pullout. That might be in the running for what to do with that space. It would be handy for sure. Here is a link that might be useful: old thread 3

Well I want to do lighting under the cabinets too because theres no way an overhead light could light the countertops that are under the cabinets. So then its just a matter of nice even light throughout the room which is about 9 x18- not quite a galley kitchen but close. Maybe the track light in my situation could be thought of as an alternative to doing can lights - ie just a way of spreading the light out more evenly throughout the room vs 1 central fixture. So what kind of track head is going to give me that kind of light? Is the above sample supposed to give more of a spot light effect vs. the ones that have glass. or maybe I want one of those LED low profile lighting panels - if I can find one thats long enough and narrow. I