HELP - bedroom flooring
Jessica De Luna
4 years ago
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Comments (11)
luscious111
4 years agoJAN MOYER
4 years agolast modified: 4 years agoRelated Discussions
need help reworking floor plan for bedroom addition
Comments (1)What is the green for?...See MoreFloor plan Help (PIC) REMOVE living room for a bigger master bedroom?
Comments (3)If you have no use for a living room, this would make sense & increase the value of your home. I would look at your layout of the bath & the entry to the master to incorporate a much larger closet (WIC) in lieu of the single closet you show now. You could do this by moving the entrance to where you current hall linen closet is now located & reverse the current master closet into the hallway for the adjacent bath. This would allow the whole left corner of your plan for a WIC and a full master bath....See MoreHelp with flooring choices for DIY bedroom carpet replacement
Comments (7)Let's deal with the Elephant in the room: floating floors have a hollow feel = BAD subfloor preparation. I'm going to tell you a little secret about carpets. They HIDE the WORST SUBFLOORS in the building industry. I mean people have found cigarette butts, gum wrappers, saranwrap, drywall cuts, etc under their carpets. And that's just the stuff you can sweep up. Now for the 'never flat, never level' subfloor. These builders use lowest of the low/crappiest of the crappy materials under carpet and sheet vinyl (I doubt you have linoleum...I'm guessing sheet vinyl...but never mind). They use PARTICLE board or OSB - the nasty stuff. Now imagine trying to tile over top of that crap. New subfloor anyone? And the other issue, if you have wood joist/wood subfloors...the DEFLECTION RATING! The deflection rating is only good enough for CARPET...or a floating floor. It might not be enough for regular hardwood (it all depends on where the joists are and the thickness of the subfloor). Whomsoever you spoke to at LOWES is telling you the truth (wow...a dude at Lowe's knows what he's talking about??? never happens!). Imagine you have a deflection rating that is 1/2 of what you need...and you have crappy OSB as the subfloor. Cement backer board does NOT add to the stiffness rating of the subfloor. You need REAL plywood (subfloor grade thick enough to get you to the Deflection Rating of the tile = could be VERY thick...depending on your joist distance). That stuff is not cheap. You are looking at $1.00 - $1.75/sf. Plus all the SCREWS (no nails...you need to SCREW the new subfloor to the old one...that's fun in with a capital SUCKS!). The screw pattern is tattooed onto the wood. Which is every 6 inches on the edges and every 4 inches in the field! That's A LOT of GALVENIZED SCREWS. Your screws will cost $50. Now we move onto the ditra/schluter system. And the spacer system (as you already know) and the thinset and the grout and the tiles. So far you could be into the tile job for $3/sf...now you have the other $3-$5/sf for the tile/thinset/mortar. Sigh. Now lets look at laminate. How does $2/sf for a decent midrange plank sound? Not bad right. Good. Now imagine the cost of 6mm cork UNDERLAY. That's another $0.80/sf. Excellent. Now imagine LOOSE LAYING the cork sheets (do NOT purchase the role...you loose 10% to the inside curl) DIRECTLY to the subfloor. No glue. No nails. Nothing. It just sits there. Now that you have the spacers at the walls (your expansion gap spacers = 1/2") and your cork sheets are laid up to the spacers (give the cork the same amount of expansion as the laminate). Now click together your laminate floor. Excellent. You have eliminated the BOUNCE of laminate (due to the subfloors being uneven) and the HOLLOW sound of laminate ('cause cork eliminates that as well). With cork underlay you can make a sh!tty $0.79/sf laminate feel like solid hardwood. And vinyl does NOT like underpad. You have to get that subfloor STUPID FLAT (sanding/patching/floating self leveler if you have the right PLYWOOD on top). Hmm...laminate with cork underlay sounds might nice right now....See MoreHelp w/tile-floor bedroom - how to create a non-drab, peaceful space?
Comments (6)Hi Susan, Thanks so much for sharing your thoughts! Wall beneath the TV is 4 feet wide so the bureau wouldn't fit (6 feet). I also was distracted by the TV cord. Was thinking of changing it to a black extension cord but a bureau there would be a nice coverup too. Definitely agree about moving the bed but we decided (maybe mistakenly) to install a closet system under the soffit where the bureau and wire rack currently are. We have very little storage in our place so it seemed the best place for it even though it means bed placement is far from ideal. We thought about building storage along the window wall (which has a bench covering part of the foundation) but custom storage there was way more expensive than a much bigger closet system under the soffit. Closet doors will be white shaker. There will also be some storage built into the hole in the wall to the left of the mirror. Given that the bureau wall will become a closet, the current bed location seemed the only option so we could both have space to get in / out of bed. But please share other ideas if you have them. Or any ideas to make it less awkward? Any thoughts on what kind of rug will work best in this space to complement the tile and the space? I was thinking a natural / jute rug but envisioning it feels too rough or barn-y in this setting?...See MoreYayagal
4 years agoShadyWillowFarm
4 years agoAllison0704
4 years agotg92064
4 years agoK R
4 years agoSina Sadeddin Architectural Design
4 years agoOak & Broad
4 years agoAC LB
4 years ago
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