Quercus Macrocarpa ants mystery.
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Tree recommendation--hybrid oak or ??
Comments (59)Tom--and the rest of my advisers here: I forgot to mention that I have some hickories. I have two shellbark, pignut, mockernut, and shagbark. I have two shellbark because I planted the first one on a bit of a ridge where the soil is more shallow, I subsequently read that shellbark hickory is generally a bottomland species. In the spring the buds get very large, and just before and after break, the bud scales, or whatever they are called, grow and become red, so the tree seems to be covered with flowers--beautiful. I have some hickory on my timberland, and one shagbark, especially, is absolutely gorgeous. Looking at this tree, one could imagine it is the most beautiful tree in the world. One problem here is they grow very, very slowly. I also have 2 hiccan hybrids, which are supposed to grow extremely fast, but for me they are almost not growing, even after 5 years, and I have three pecans, also of the genus Carya, of course. They are also growing very slow in my environment here. I love hickories, but here--what's the old saying? "I should live so long!" I did some more research on American beech--based on what I can find out, maybe my initial idea of not bothering with it here is correct. They really, really don't like droughts, and don't like exposed sites. I never, never see any in the woods around here, and I am not sure I can point to a single one in Winchester. Beautiful trees, but I am afraid not for here. Well, I am still looking for ideas. I know it is a sin in the minds of many in these forums, but I may just prune up a Norway spruce or two for shade trees, and/or white pine. But so far the oaks are the best I have. I mentioned the white and swamp white oaks, but the two largest are Shummard oaks--they thrive here. Oh, and I have cottonwoods. They are not spreading yet, so not much shade. Where I grew up--from age 5 to 15, the primary tree for shade and general enjoyment was a cottonwood. Gorgeous!! I have a Siouxland cultivar of eastern cottonwood. In the ground 5 years, 20 feet tall, and looking like it may be the star of all the 120 or so kinds of trees I have here!! Wonderful large leaves, rich green, glossy, and so far this tree is acting like it is more drought resistant than my other cottonwoods. --spruce...See MoreWhat is biting me?
Comments (11)I have those, too. Thanks for making me aware of what is causing my discomfort. WalterReeves.com recommends watering only once a week to help eliminate these sorts of critters. He says to put a tuna can a few feet from your sprinkler and quit when it gets an inch of water in it. He says that should be enough for most plants. My hydrangeas and impatients would be licking the ground before a week, though. And in this heat, if I water my tomatoes only once per week they split wide open when it rains. And get blossom end rot from drying out. But from what I read they may be responsible for the spotted wilt on my tomatoes. Commercial growers use silver reflective plastic mulch on the ground to repel thrips from their tomatoes. Thrips Control: Remove weeds and grass from around garden areas to eliminate alternate hosts. Yellow sticky traps are helpful for monitoring adult populations. If found, use the Bug Blaster or hose off plants with a strong stream of water to reduce pest numbers. Release commercially available beneficial insects, such as Minute Pirate Bugs, Thrips Predators, ladybugs and lacewing, to attack and destroy all stages of thrips. For best results, make releases when pest levels are low to medium. If populations are high, use a least-toxic, short-lived natural pesticide to establish control, then release predatory insects to maintain control. Insecticidal soap, neem oil, and botanical insecticides can be used to spot treat heavily infested areas. Clean up crop debris, especially onion leaves after harvest. Tip: Insecticidal soap, neem oil, and botanical insecticides are contact insecticides. For effective control, it is necessary to provide thorough coverage, especially inside the plant base of the leaves where the majority of pests are located. Release or encourage benenficial insects including: Ladybug, minute pirate bug, big-eyed bug, damsel bug, lacewing Plant the following to attract beneficial predator insects: Carrot family (Queen AnneÂs lace, dill, fennel, caraway, tansy, parsley, coriander, bishopÂs weed), the sunflower family(coreopsis, Gloriosa daisy, yarrow, cosmos, sunflower, marigolds), candytuft, sweet alyssum, ceanothus, holly-leaved cherry (Prunus ilicifolia), buckwheat, scabiosa, spearmint, coyote brush (Baccharis pilularis), knotweed (Polygonum aviculare), California lilacs (Ceanothus spp.), soapbark tree, meadow foam (Linnanthes douglasii), baby-blue-eyes (Nemophila) Here is a link that might be useful: Landscaping to attract beneficial insects...See Moretall 50 foot zone 7 tree that produces food for squirrels and rabbit?
Comments (15)^ true I figured that before I made this thread but if can get a large pine nut variety to grow would be even better. local nurseries I'm a bit shocked at prices are like $200 a tree for ~6 foot large variety trees . eBay has various oak starter plants for only like $10 shipped. Albeit only about a foot tall but it should be fine. Eastern white pine also ebay about $10, maybe other pine varieties too, want a dense and tall pine if decide on Pine. Neighbor has a very tall pine maybe I can propigate a cutting with rooting hormone but may be too late in season for that and I read isn't commonly done (at least in terms of oak trees usually not started from a cutting but yes from grafting which I'm not going to get into and would rather buy a $10 oak starter but some Pine starters on ebay for $10 look like simply cuttings taken from a larger tree, EDIT: maybe it's not too difficult to plant pine/oak from cuttings but for $10 I might as well just buy a starter plant especially since I want to plant it ASAP). For the sidewalk, 3 fragrant white flowering trees on the ok list. Maybe a crabapple also on the other side of the driveway. And, near sidewalk but ~4 feet back on front lawn: 2 on each end, something bushy fragrant like korean spice, or something evergreen and dense, but small since powerline on one side and two existing ~30' tall trees on the other side don't want to crowd it too much. And, after removing existing stump, replacing White Birch which was in main front, was about 35 feet tall but had to be felled a few years ago due to rot, it didn't bloom and had been topped a few years prior probably incorrectly plus maybe pruned incorrectly had a hole down the top 2 feet deep with squirrel nest and tons of ants when chopped. I read these verieties are a bit fragile when it comes to pruning etc but it should be ok. I guess it makes seeds etc for wildlife to eat also. Took a while to get the above list situated. Lots to learn about trees... EDIT: ehh, looks like about only a week more until the common deadline of "Fall" planting (eventhough it's only been fall for a couple weeks) so I will probably just plant these in Spring as soon as soil temps are ok, they will be watered too so no worry they will fry. I think now even if mulched may get root frost damage. I can maybe grow stuff from seed too but will probably just buy the plants. I might buy the oak/pine now though for $10 and if dies no biggie buy another in Spring but the sidewalk trees and white paper birch will wait for Spring....See MoreThis is why I like smart pots
Comments (9)Have you had any luck planting trees out from this type of pot? I have a long list of species that refuse to grow after growing in this type of pot. Includes Osage Orange, multiple Oak, Shatung Maple, Bald Cypress, Buckeye. etc. What is weird is that every single tree from this type of pot will not grow I’m talking to them on fourth season with a few inches of crossed over that time. I’m pulling a couple more out next spring because the damn things just won’t grow and in some cases the plants are starting to turn yellow likely from all the dense compacted roots that are choking the tree off. It’s this odd mystery that I cannot figure out. I must be the only one having this issue but there are a total of 12 trees with the same issue....See MoreUser
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